How safe is it being supercharged?

[EgoBoost]

I’ve seen thousands of boosted coyotes over the past 10 years. On my 3rd myself (+1 GT500). Be good to it (good tuner, good gas, don’t beat the crap out of it) it’ll be good to you.

Sponsored

 

[blue5.slow]

3.0 is griptech and haven't seen any in the logs as of yet. car has ran a 9.1@154 in 50 degree temps and a shitty 1.4 60ft. Can definitely run an 8 with this setup.

Holy shit

 

[SolarFlare]

You can definitely take steps to lower the potential for breaking stuff. Many people don’t do it and instantly regret it. Often oil changes, often plug changes, logging, good solid parts, and common sense goes a long away. I’m a month away from 5 years boosted on the stock bottom of end.

 

[Kenbike]

Been boosted for 3 months and worried for years if it was a good idea. The car drives great at normal acceleration even still pulls a vacuum on the gauge. I will say to me the biggest risk are 2!
1. On the street just punching after 30 - 40 mph will have you to 100 mph in a few seconds so you have to watch for the law and only power up in wide open areas.
2. Getting poor quality fuel, have pure gas stations locally and tuned the car for their 91 octane product. Bad gas can be an issue.

I would not worry, my car runs smoother around town, no supercharge wine, and moves out very well.

 

[GreenS550]

I blew my engine after just 3 months with only street driving. Bad gas.

More likely a bad tune

 

[GreenS550]

FWIW, I know 3 people locally who are in the 750-800+ rwhp range with their Coyotes. 2/3 have blown their trans, and 1/3 have blown their engine. Another guy just got to about 800 rwhp, so we'll see on that one.

The engines and transmissions simply aren't strong enough to handle that kind of power reliably for the long haul. Despite what a random Joe says who has been running 800 rwhp reliably for years on his Coyote, you're much more likely to run into problems when compared to stock. Consider what the OEMs do to the engines to beef them up to make them reliable: Think Predator vs Coyote, LT4 vs LT1, or Hellcat Redeye vs whatever the 6.4 SRT engine is called. Heck, Dodge even increased the strength of the Redeye engine compared to a "regular" Hellcat engine; and the Hellcat is already beefed up. All of the factory supercharged engines are much stronger than their naturally aspirated counterparts.

Then you have the trans, and other components. There's a reason the ZL1 comes with the 10L90 (90 is the torque rating) 10-speed, and a GT and SS come with the 80 (lower torque rating).

So, if you start to push the power it will likely be when, not if, something happens.

There is a huge difference between 650 rwhp and 750-800 rwhp in terms of engine durability.

 

[GreenS550]

Op, stay under 10 psi boost. If you are still going Whipple use ONLY their tune, the 91. My Bullitt made 675 rwhp sae at 7,800. Ran better than stock. Whipple stage 1 complete kit.

Forget the OPGs. You do not need that. Virtually every gen 2 and 3 supercharged engine that has failed in my knowledge had to do with ring lands breaking from pre-detonation. I am sure there are some that had the OPGs go, but usually there was some issue with using a 2 step or some other nonsense.

If you stay under 700 rwhp with their tune you will be fine. But, beware of the HP addiction many of us have fallen under. The need for more all the time. Discipline and being satisfied is the way to live.

Roush, procharger, whipple, and the other main line supercharger makers that provide their own tune are safe in my experience.

 

[XROSEM]

I've had the Whipple now for 3 years. Started at 14lbs of boost, now for the last year been on 18lbs. I'm full time E85 though, not sure what your plans are for the car. Find a good tuner and plan on getting your trans built if you go above 12-14lbs.

Thanks for the good information... I am having the new Whipple 3.8 installed this week and is hard finding max safe boost with Coyote 12:1 compression.

 

[Andy13186]

One of my cam cap had the bolts break off in the cylinder head and it came loose at 20k miles boosted (60k miles tuned though). Shop thinks that ford reused the cam cap bolts on prior warranty work. And I did drive the car hard every day but I also did perfect maintenance etc. Also had 8 rocker arm retaining clips come off over the years. Just dont rev over 8k imo and it should be fine. Repair/upgrade going to cost me like 8k =/ Billet cam caps, arp bolts for the caps, arp headstuds, billet OPG, all new timing equipment, new cams since my cam was bent/messed up, etc etc.

 

[XROSEM]

Very impressive. I just sold off my 17 MT82 Whipple setup and got a 21 10R car with clutches and Whipple in the mail. I stayed with the 6 rib set-up but was concerned if maybe I should have got the 10 rib because I plan on 18psi and 150 trap at least. Good to know it's working out for you

Is 18 psi too much for 12:1 compression? I am having Whipple 3.8L installed this week and am having a hard time finding safe PSI info.

 

[Andy13186]

Is 18 psi too much for 12:1 compression? I am having Whipple 3.8L installed this week and am having a hard time finding safe PSI info.

With stock motor id probably stick to 14 or below and dont go above 8k rpm. And thats pushing it imo. And obviously only on e85. on 93 10 psi max. 850+ is pushing it on the whole drivetrain.

If you go to the strip at these power levels stuff will break. Axles, transmission, etc.

 

[XROSEM]

With stock motor id probably stick to 14 or below and dont go above 8k rpm. And thats pushing it imo.

Thanks for reply.

 

[beefcake]

Thanks for the good information... I am having the new Whipple 3.8 installed this week and is hard finding max safe boost with Coyote 12:1 compression.

i assume its a built motor if your doing a 3.8, bare miminum you will need to be on e85 or race gas 100% of the time with a 3.8

 

[hlfbkd420]

I blew up a 2018 Roush at 22,000 miles. The engine is currently getting replaced but it had headers and a tune. Roush P2 was installed at 700 miles. Headers at about 2,000 because I didn't want to melt the cats (happened on my 2018) and it was tuned at 12,000 miles. It blew a ring land pretty much a year later. Not sure what the cause was. Started it up one day and it started thrown CEL's for misfires on 2 cylinders.

This is my second boosted Gen3. First one was traded after two years and 14,000 miles. Cats failed at 7k and that was the only thing that ever happened to it.

2nd one shredded the serpentine belt at 21,000 miles and when the dealer went to fix it they said it also had a pulley with a messed up bearing. Roush fixed it under warranty and then less than 6 months and 1,000 miles later two cylinders started misfiring. Engine is being replace now but guess what? It's at another dealer and they said they need to replace the belt and pulley again because they are bad...

 

[engineermike]

@hlfbkd420 who’s tune were you running?

Sponsored