HoW mUcH pOweR cAn mY cOyOtE hAnDLe

[ForeverDrivin]

Hello all, yes this is maybe the millionth time you've heard this question!

I'm just trying to get a more specific answer. I have a 97 car with a supercharged coyote in it (VMP 2.3L Gen2R) and since it dropped a lifter I'm going for a simple rebuild.

Forged internals, obviously, but what about the bottom end? I've heard the typical "the crank is good for over 1k hp" but what about the actual hardware? Does anyone know someone running near 4-digit numbers with stock bolts or is it JUST the crank, and you still need main cap studs?

My machine shop is just extremely backed up. Main cap studs put me back a few months for a line hone.

I'm also not planning 900-1000hp all the time, I know thats a risk on an unsleeved gen 1 block. I want to sit comfortably at 850whp on an Ethanol tune and maybe hit 700 on pump gas.

Also, if you want, give me opinions about compression ratios since I can change them with the new internals! Haven't talked to a tuner yet about it.

Thanks,
Blake Hammond

Heres a little image of the car for you guys:

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[Andy13186]

Somehow I had a pair of cam cap bolts break off in my cylinder head @800 rwhp. The shop thinks that ford may have reused them during warranty work though and I also have driven this car pretty hard. Putting billet cam caps and arp cam cap bolts in now along with a few other upgrades, headstuds etc. Bottom end has held up fine though.

 

[babrams3]

Definition of a picture doing the car justice...very nice. Good luck with the build!

 

[K4fxd]

I know waiting sucks but do it once and do it right. Line honing the mains is a must in my book for any rebuild, along with squaring the deck. Main studs are cheap insurance.

 

[K4fxd]

Also, if you want, give me opinions about compression ratios since I can change them with the new internals! Haven't talked to a tuner yet about it.

Most tuners are lazy and will tell you to run 11 or 12, I take a page from Ford and the other OEM's that put superchargers on production engines. Run 9.5 or 10 to 1.

 

[drive_55_not]

Most tuners are lazy and will tell you to run 11 or 12, I take a page from Ford and the other OEM's that put superchargers on production engines. Run 9.5 or 10 to 1.

Interesting, I would think it opposite, A lazy tuner will tell you to run 10:1 'cause they don't wanna put the effort into tuning a higher compression car to run on pump gas.

The Gen1 block needs the water jacket support mod, Back in the day one our local Mustanger's cracked his gen1 with a big F-1 Procharger on it. He was running low 9's on ethanol,

I say 12:1, I-beams and ARP bolts and studs. That should live a long and healthy life on corn.


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[K4fxd]

I say 12:1, I-beams and ARP bolts and studs. That should live a long and healthy life on corn.

That works well for a race car but if I were to do all that I'd go 14 to 1 or higher.

Interesting, I would think it opposite, A lazy tuner will tell you to run 10:1 'cause they don't wanna put the effort into tuning a higher compression car to run on pump gas.

They have their tunes set up for stock compression ratios so if you run less compression they have to actually tune your combo.

The OEM's run less compression to make the engine last through the warranty period.

 

[JoeSpeed]

I'm just here for the pictures, you got a beautiful car there

 

[ForeverDrivin]

Somehow I had a pair of cam cap bolts break off in my cylinder head @800 rwhp. The shop thinks that ford may have reused them during warranty work though and I also have driven this car pretty hard. Putting billet cam caps and arp cam cap bolts in now along with a few other upgrades, headstuds etc. Bottom end has held up fine though.

So you're saying at 800whp you had the stock main cap bolts for the crank and it worked out fine? Good to hear. Also good to know I need to replace the cam bolts when they come out.

 

[ForeverDrivin]

I know waiting sucks but do it once and do it right. Line honing the mains is a must in my book for any rebuild, along with squaring the deck. Main studs are cheap insurance.

I know what you mean, the only reason I ask is because I do want to do it right. BUT, along with the wait, there are other issues. I know the gen 1s prefer to have sleeves for 4 digits and I've even heard of the gen 1 cylinder walls collapsing at 8-900.

This is dumb to say when building for these power numbers, but I'm on a budget through college right now. Doing the full gen1 reinforcements will blow my bank account out.

If I can get away with stock main caps that saves me a huge wait and headache. Will obv do ARP head bolts though.

 

[K4fxd]

You could start with a Predator block. Not sure if that route would be any cheaper but the strength would be there no machining required.

 

[ForeverDrivin]

I def could as a way around the expensive machining. But the point is I dont wanna drop that extra amount of money anyway.

Its an sn95 chassis, I can only go so far before something folds. I need extra cash to build upon other parts of the car like braces, axles, ect.

Believe it or not I originally built it as a track car, not a drag car. This power is really just benefit of a great deal I came across on the blower. Won't be stressing this motor out at full-grip drag events all the time.

 

[WildHorse]

Midnight Performance (Bryan Luna) was making over 1000 RWHP on a sealed, bone stock gen2 coyote.

 

[Hack]

I would say set up the blower to run on a stock block. Use a junkyard Coyote and go easy until you get out of college.

800+ HP sounds great, but what are you going to do in 5 years when you are sick of it? Go for 580-650 right now and save some money and heartaches. Have fun at a lower power level and then you will have more headroom to grow once you have the cash to do it right.

I've seen it over and over people putting too much power into their engine. Invariably it fails and then they have no cash to start over and they are stuck in a really bad spot driving something really junky. You are young, you have plenty of time to do mega power builds that spin the tires at 120 mph or something insane like that.

 

[ForeverDrivin]

I would say set up the blower to run on a stock block. Use a junkyard Coyote and go easy until you get out of college.

800+ HP sounds great, but what are you going to do in 5 years when you are sick of it? Go for 580-650 right now and save some money and heartaches. Have fun at a lower power level and then you will have more headroom to grow once you have the cash to do it right.

I've seen it over and over people putting too much power into their engine. Invariably it fails and then they have no cash to start over and they are stuck in a really bad spot driving something really junky. You are young, you have plenty of time to do mega power builds that spin the tires at 120 mph or something insane like that.

I totally agree! The problem is that I've been doing what you described (junkyard coyote set to 650ish hp) for a year already.

Its not like Im insatiable right now with power, but I had a major tick appear that warrented the motor coming out. (Turned out to be a header gasket but you cant get the headers off without nearly removing the engine anyway).

This is more of a "while I'm at it" thing, plus extras I should have done originally. Billitt oil pump gear, timing rebuild, springs, etc. All things I should've done when I picked up a 147k mile motor from LKQ but I was too broke. I figured put in the internals while I'm at it and just gain that extra 100-200hp.

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