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How much polyfill

Rash

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The Punch comes in 2 and 4 ohm - why did you choose 2? What is the ohm of the factory sub?
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Vicr

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The Punch comes in 2 and 4 ohm - why did you choose 2? What is the ohm of the factory sub?

Factory sub has 2 ohm impedance.
 

Elp_jc

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I'm reviving this thread, to see if anybody has installed Poly-fill inside the B&O enclosure, since this is the appropriate forum. In another forum, some folks said about 8 oz, so want to know if that's the most efficient amount. Read that too much is bad, so it has to be the right amount. That's why I'm giving it a try here :D. Thank you.
 

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I'm reviving this thread, to see if anybody has installed Poly-fill inside the B&O enclosure, since this is the appropriate forum. In another forum, some folks said about 8 oz, so want to know if that's the most efficient amount. Read that too much is bad, so it has to be the right amount. That's why I'm giving it a try here :D. Thank you.
Yes I have and it made a difference. Helped to tighten up the boomy bass.

How much - loose fill, but don't cram it in. Then back off the bass on the head unit to minimum and it sounds much better.
 

Elp_jc

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I think the one I ordered from Walmart comes in sheets, so wondering how to install that. Should I rip it in pieces, or just stuff the enclosure with the sheets as they come? And 2 more questions specific for the newer Mustangs: Is the sub secured from the back with an 8mm bolt, meaning I have to remove the enclosure to remove the sub? And finally, how exactly do you remove the ring covering the sub's 8 or so Torx bolts? Don't want to break any tabs anymore. Thanks.
 

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JL audio, they just put 1 sheet in their boxes. Seems to work. I’ve never had loose fill poly fill myself As I use their boxes and it always has it in it

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m3incorp

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The sub enclosure is secure with three bolts in the front. You have to remove the grill to remove the subwoofer from the enclosure. You technically don't have to unbolt the subwoofer enclosure to remove the subwoofer, but since it only adds 30 seconds and makes things a lot easier to access, I would just unbolt it to get to the subwoofer grill and the subwoofer itself a lot easier. Wait, I take that back. You have to unplug the wires that run to the back of the subwoofer and they are much easier to unplug with the subwoofer enclosure not bolted in.

Use trim tools to remove the grill and then you can access the screws to remove the subwoofer itself.

I think the one I ordered from Walmart comes in sheets, so wondering how to install that. Should I rip it in pieces, or just stuff the enclosure with the sheets as they come? And 2 more questions specific for the newer Mustangs: Is the sub secured from the back with an 8mm bolt, meaning I have to remove the enclosure to remove the sub? And finally, how exactly do you remove the ring covering the sub's 8 or so Torx bolts? Don't want to break any tabs anymore. Thanks.
 

Elp_jc

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Excellent. Many thanks. That's what I'm going to do. I think the Sony enclosure has a bolt at the back, but apparently the B&O doesn't. That way I can also check if any fasteners were loose, and make sure nothing behind the enclosure is making any noises, since I have some noise coming from that side, although it appears to be coming from the rear shelf/C-pillar area. The Poly-fil arrives Thursday, I think, so will wait until it's here to remove the sub enclosure. I've also seen poly-fil just glued to the inside of enclosures, and never filled completely, but apparently it's a thing. It's the equivalent of having a larger enclosure, supposedly... but the driver has to have the capability of being in a larger enclosure, or there's not much benefit. And too much muffles the sound, making matters worse, so you shouldn't over-stuff it for sure. Wish I knew exactly how much to put :D. The 16-oz bag was cheaper than the 8-oz one, so my wife ordered that one. Will use half, and see how it looks. Supposedly it's 1 to 1.5 lbs per cubic foot of space. Our enclosure looks like about a cubic foot in my estimation, which would require like 16-oz, so 8 should be fine (better under than over). And a cheapo sub might not be capable of much more than that, so 8-oz sounds good to me :).
 

Gregs24

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I used the hollow fill fibre from a pillow for mine - effectively free.

Be careful taking off the trim ring. It will almost certainly break ! You need to be gentle but firm and get the trim removal tool in exactly the right place, and unfortunately you don't know where that is until you have got it half off (and broken it!) You will snap off some of the retaining 'studs' but as long as most are still there it will go back on fine. You cannot buy the trim piece as a spare part on it's own.

C-pillar rattle - TADTS
 

m3incorp

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I agree..... I was lucky and didn't break the trim ring.

I used the hollow fill fibre from a pillow for mine - effectively free.

Be careful taking off the trim ring. It will almost certainly break ! You need to be gentle but firm and get the trim removal tool in exactly the right place, and unfortunately you don't know where that is until you have got it half off (and broken it!) You will snap off some of the retaining 'studs' but as long as most are still there it will go back on fine. You cannot buy the trim piece as a spare part on it's own.

C-pillar rattle - TADTS
 

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Elp_jc

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Be careful taking off the trim ring. It will almost certainly break!
Well, IT DID! Wish I had seen this sooner. Oh well. I broke 4 out of the 6 studs, so unusable. Geez. It's always the same story with this f***ing car. That's why I don't want to do anything to it anymore that involves trim. Oh well. Folks, unless you REALLY want to do this, I'd leave it alone. I'd have done exactly that, in retrospect.

Anyway, spent an hour breaking off all posts, then grinded/sanded them almost flat, so it doesn't look like something is missing, and finally painted the torx bolts black, and it looks decent now. The ring can make noise, and with just 2 out of 6 posts, and next to each other, no sense in trying to make it work IMO. Just hope the damn mod was worth it (haven't tried it yet). It doesn't look pretty, but at least it's not obvious that something is missing either.

Finally, used exactly 8 oz (weighed it), and seems to be the perfect amount. Not too little, and not too much. There's definitely at least a cubic foot of space in there, in my estimation. So I don't agree we should stuff the enclosure with 16 to 24 oz IMO, especially with that crappy sub. So I fully endorse the 8-oz standard :D.
 

Gregs24

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Well, IT DID! Wish I had seen this sooner. Oh well. I broke 4 out of the 6 studs, so unusable. Geez. It's always the same story with this f***ing car. That's why I don't want to do anything to it anymore that involves trim. Oh well. Folks, unless you REALLY want to do this, I'd leave it alone. I'd have done exactly that, in retrospect.

Anyway, spent an hour breaking off all posts, then grinded/sanded them almost flat, so it doesn't look like something is missing, and finally painted the torx bolts black, and it looks decent now. The ring can make noise, and with just 2 out of 6 posts, and next to each other, no sense in trying to make it work IMO. Just hope the damn mod was worth it (haven't tried it yet). It doesn't look pretty, but at least it's not obvious that something is missing either.

Finally, used exactly 8 oz (weighed it), and seems to be the perfect amount. Not too little, and not too much. There's definitely at least a cubic foot of space in there, in my estimation. So I don't agree we should stuff the enclosure with 16 to 24 oz IMO, especially with that crappy sub. So I fully endorse the 8-oz standard :D.
There is another option !

Disconnect the sub altogether. The rest of the speakers have plenty of bass and all of the sloppy boomy lower frequency vanishes. I am trying it that way, but so far it seems much better and still plenty of bass. The sub is really poorly controlled and adds little to the overall sound.
 

WD Pro

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You guys spooked me with the trim ring on the B&O system, I defo didn’t want to break it ...

It is possible to remove it without breaking or marking anything. If you remove the box you can see the six securing pins and their position relative to the sub securing screws is a fixed relationship. One trim tool under the ring to lift it a little, one trim tool pushed up against the outer side of the clip to compress it. Work accurately and gently with pressure balanced between the two tools and you can get it removed with zero damage :

2-E600-DC7-7212-4839-8-A32-1-BC2907-E3-AAC.jpg


I also left my box in the sun in the garden before I attempted removal - this probably made the plastic a little less fragile :like:

I’ve put the box back in without the trim ring whilst waiting for the poly fil to arrive (I only had it out to put sequencers in), the rest of the job should be easy to do in situ now.

Good luck,

WD :like:
 

Gregs24

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You guys spooked me with the trim ring on the B&O system, I defo didn’t want to break it ...

It is possible to remove it without breaking or marking anything. If you remove the box you can see the six securing pins and their position relative to the sub securing screws is a fixed relationship. One trim tool under the ring to lift it a little, one trim tool pushed up against the outer side of the clip to compress it. Work accurately and gently with pressure balanced between the two tools and you can get it removed with zero damage :

2-E600-DC7-7212-4839-8-A32-1-BC2907-E3-AAC.jpg


I also left my box in the sun in the garden before I attempted removal - this probably made the plastic a little less fragile :like:

I’ve put the box back in without the trim ring whilst waiting for the poly fil to arrive (I only had it out to put sequencers in), the rest of the job should be easy to do in situ now.

Good luck,

WD :like:
Where did you get your net 'bag' for your boot ? I assume it goes between the stud fixings ?
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