How much power can the stock electrical handle?

[ghost5.0]

Just out of curiosity, is anyone using more than 1500 watts RMS for a sound system on the stock battery? I plan on installing a 1300 watt rms amp for the subwoofer and a 500 watts rms 4 channel amp on the speakers. So far I haven't seen anyone on this forum run that much power and I'm hoping I don't run into any kind of electrical issues. I have the GT premium with the heated/cooled seats so I've heard it comes from the factory with a massive 200amp alternator. My install is this Friday so I guess I'll be the first to review what it's like running this much power on stock electrical.

Sponsored

 

[sauerkraut]

If you're running that much power I'd suggest a capacitor just to be safe.

 

[OEMRadio]

1500 watts divided by 12.5 volts equals 120 amps.. and that doesn't include the needed current for the existing electrical.. AC.. and heating.. lights.. voltage fluctuations are very hard on modern computers.. they have a designed operations voltage window.. and once you get below that it gets to be pretty dangerous.

You are better off getting an upgraded alternator.. also a AGM battery..

 

[GoBlues38]

1300 + 500 = 1800 RMS.

1800w / 14v = 128 amp draw. I do not know what the stock alternator is, but it is most likely between 75 and 100 amps.

So to answer your question, NO. You do not have enough charging capacity. Adding a second battery and capacitors is still a good idea to account for peak draw and dynamic power. But any extended listening beyond 56-60% volume and you will be running your alternator at 100% capacity and draining your battery at the same time. Ultimately, BOTH will fail.

In short, you need better battery(s), bigger alternator to run that much pwer.

 

[GoBlues38]

If you're running that much power I'd suggest a capacitor just to be safe.

Will not help in this instance. All a capacitor does is store energy for a quick release. Happens in a millisecond. This will not help him. He is so far in the negative, he will have problems charging the capacitor in the first place,

 

[wildcatgoal]

Will not help in this instance. All a capacitor does is store energy for a quick release. Happens in a millisecond. This will not help him. He is so far in the negative, he will have problems charging the capacitor in the first place,

Thank you, beat me to it.

Guys/gals... those 1F or even 5F capacitors that look like pringles cans are just gimmicks to take your money. They do NOTHING. And if you think they did in your previous car, either you got one of the rare ones that was an ACTUAL capacitor at the 1F/5F rating (rare!) or your mind created this illusion. Sorry.

A REAL capacitor looks like this:

This is not my photo but I have one of these. It weighs as much as or more than your amplifier and is sized bigger than many of today's Class-D amps. They don't make these anymore, just like they don't make a lot of high-quality car audio components like they used to. This thing was a legitimate 5F capacitor. I assure you, the pringles cans available everywhere are not.

Now...

The very FIRST thing you should do if adding lots of accessory power is to add a higher-power alternator, not to add batteries (which are only going to help you if you want to run the system without the car being on for extended periods of time, albeit having a battery closer to the power draw is of some help) and not to add capacitors. You will also notice a real difference installing a true AGM battery over a regular battery (I'm not sure what the Mustang comes with). AGM batterys, like Die Hard Platinums and Odysseys, are excellent for car audio. Optimas used to be good, until quality seemed to go down when they transferred manufacturing to Mexico.

A (real) capacitor (which, today, is hard to find) should only be applied to a system to help in situations where in rare circumstances your lights might dim or voltage drops for a quick instant AFTER improving your power charging capability and using properly sized COPPER wiring for power with an excellent ground.

There are advantages to having a second battery close to the power source and this has helped some people, but the primary purpose of a second battery is to allow for longer vehicle-off run time, not solve your power problems.

 

[GoBlues38]

I was an MECP certified installer / sales person back from 1987 - 1994. I was also an IASCA judge. I have since left the industry. Basic electrical theory has not changed.

There are times when I get the bug to upgrade the audio side of my cars, but then I remember, I cant get equipment at cost + 5% anymore. I have so many other things I want to spend $4,000 on.

 

[wildcatgoal]

Yes, the 5% above is the only reason I justify spending a dime on this hobby.

 

[sauerkraut]

Will not help in this instance. All a capacitor does is store energy for a quick release. Happens in a millisecond. This will not help him. He is so far in the negative, he will have problems charging the capacitor in the first place,

You're right, but a capacitor will help to prevent surges and voltage sagging.

Kepp in mind that unless he is blaring his music at full volume constantly, he will likely never be pulling all 1800 watts at once. Not to mention 1800w RMS in a car is complete overkill unless you're trying to win a SPL battle. I honestly think these cars would rattle apart from a sub running at 1300w rms.

OP, are you sure the amps aren't 1300 & 500 peak and not RMS?

 

[ghost5.0]

Thank you for the input everyone. It appears the stock alternator for my car is already 200 amps? Would it really be necessary to upgrade the alternator? I understand this car has lots of electronics to power as is, but figured 200 amps would be sufficient. I'm not competing nor will I be listening to the system full tilt all the time. The sub will be taking a 1 ohm load from the mono block amp @ 1385w rms (claimed). The speakers I have are 4ohm impedance. Below you will see the specifications sheet from the mono amp and multi-channel amp, respectively. I understand many would agree that's too much power for a subwoofer but my last car (a BMW 328i) had an 18" woofer in a 6th order bandpass on 2900 watts RMS. I had 3 kinetik hc1800 batts in my last car. So this system is relatively weak in comparison to my last. My stang has 5000 miles on it and the last thing I want is any sort of electrical problems. My installer (a well respected shop) did not seem to be worried about electrical once I said it came stock with a 200 amp alternator. But now I'm having second thoughts... Thank you.

Sponsored