Honey Badger's Completely Off-the-Rails Race Car Build and Track Adventure Thread

[honeybadger]

Okay ya’ll

getting ready to mount the dry sump oil tank and looking at two options. Curious to see what y’all think.

First is option 1 - behind the passenger seat.

Pros are weight distribution, easier access to fill/check level, less chassis cutting and welding

cons are having to run two -16 and one -12 hose under the car. And the runs are longer

option 2 is beneath the dash.

pros are shorter run for the hoses, all lines protected from debris/crash, and lower center of gravity

cons are less optimal weight distribution, terrible access for checking levels/fill, and requires more mods to the chassis (cutting holes)

both will be in a metal box to prevent oil spray/fire, so access is pretty crap either way.

another thing about the first option that sucks is routing the hoses from down out of the cabin and horizontal along the body. Worried about rubbing on the chassis could run through cabin, but prevent fire would be harder.

ideas?

 

[stannypack]

Good god what is going on in this thread lol and here I thought taking on a new intercooler on my ecoboost was tiring

 

[K4fxd]

Can you mount it in the trunk and run the lines through the cage?

 

[Strokerswild]

Good god what is going on in this thread lol and here I thought taking on a new intercooler on my ecoboost was tiring

Yeah, just the thought of doing all that stitch welding is giving me fits...

 

[honeybadger]

Can you mount it in the trunk and run the lines through the cage?

Lines won't fit in the cage - too big. Plus, not a huge fan of having to run lines that long.

Yeah, just the thought of doing all that stitch welding is giving me fits...

It's not fun. Got lots of burns from it ha

 

[The Chairman]

I see that the GT-350 based GT4 cars have the dry sump tank where the battery was located under the hood.

 

[Epiphany]

That was what was submitted and approved by the SRO but if you talk to GT4 teams, some favor the rearward in-cabin location.

 

[geepaw]

I see that the GT-350 based GT4 cars have the dry sump tank where the battery was located under the hood.

This was going to be my suggestion ..seen it done on cars with a lot less room than ours and access is good. Maybe I’m just too conservative .. but not sure I want an oil tank or lines anywhere near the driver inside for safety reasons.

 

[honeybadger]

This was going to be my suggestion ..seen it done on cars with a lot less room than ours and access is good. Maybe I’m just too conservative .. but not sure I want an oil tank or lines anywhere near the driver inside for safety reasons.

Under the dash will also be boxed in and entirely separate from interior. Planning for all access but removal to be done through the engine bay.

Here's a pic of the inside of the GT4 car that @Epiphany shared in his GT4 thread. Mine will be very similar - just a bit bigger since mine won't be that up against the firewall since I don't have a fancy custom tank.

 

[honeybadger]

While out playing with mounting the dash, I painted a test sample of steel it gray on the engine bay. Ended up doing three samples - one on cleaned raw metal, one on wirebrushed/cleaned patch of existing paint, and one where I aggressively agitated and then cleaned.

happy with the color for the engine bay, underside and interior. Just curious how much prep work it’ll take. We’ll see what the tests show next week.

 

[K4fxd]

While out playing with mounting the dash, I painted a test sample of steel it gray on the engine bay. Ended up doing three samples - one on cleaned raw metal, one on wirebrushed/cleaned patch of existing paint, and one where I aggressively agitated and then cleaned.

happy with the color for the engine bay, underside and interior. Just curious how much prep work it’ll take. We’ll see what the tests show next week.

I was always more anal and finished the welds. Stitched like you did then filled them in.

 

[honeybadger]

I was always more anal and finished the welds. Stitched like you did then filled them in.

At like 1500 stitch welds, I can't even imagine. Car already has about 12lbs of wire added to it. Plus, I need to get done this century

 

[honeybadger]

Okay - chose a location for the dry sump oil tank and went bananas with the cut off wheel tonight. Happy with how it's looking. By opening up the floor into the crumple zone and cutting out the "box" that the HVAC air intake used, I was able to get the can pretty far forward.

Good news is I should be able to access the fill from the engine bay

Currently waiting on some fittings to plan out my hose routing before I finalize the mounting. It's a tight fit juggling 4 different ports.

In the meantime, I mocked up the dash, steering column, and pedals. Dash and wheel conflict, so i've ordered a mount to put the dash on the steering column instead of where the OEM cluster was. This should move it forward and make it easier to see. This perspective is a bit misleading, the top of the wheel covers the shift lights most of the time in this position.

Finally, I've mocked up the pedals. Think I've lucked out on not needing to cut the foot well - which is good. the main chassis rails run directly under the brake pedal.

 

[honeybadger]

Okay - made some progress last week on the dry sump enclosure. I need to clean things and take some more pics, but going to wait to do that until I lay some steel it down to and seam seal the enclosure as taking the mounts in and out are pretty tedious. But essentially I built a box with a removal door inside the cabin that will go under the dash. A little heavy since I used 16g steel, but I wanted it to withstand passengers kicking/bracing themselves on it. So I welded to the chassis. Should also add some structural rigidity back into that corner.

On the engine-bay side, I enclosed the hole a bit to add some more rigidity back and protect the canister a little better.

Getting really close to being done with the fab work. Basically just have some final clean up to do on the fuel cell and dry sump tank enclosure. Then I'm ready to weld the cage and paint.

Last week I also completed the final "big ticket" purchases- Speedkore carbon fiber roof, Link ECU and wiring kit, L&M cams, AP Racing brake kit, and a couple other bits. I think I only have the rear diffuser left.

And one of the pieces I'm most excited for came in. Bosch M5 Motorsport ABS Clubsport Kit. This is going to be a real game changer and should really help shrink those brake zones. There's a good 1.5-2 seconds split between Turn 1, 11, 12 and 15 braking zones at COTA from my analysis. Stock unit is great, but not optimized for racing slicks, big aero, and full race pads. FP350S replacement is a really strong option from what I've been told by those much smarter/better than me and what I'd recommend for 95% of those going down the rabbit hole. But all agreed if I could....and against my more rational judgement...I did

 

[shogun32]

Bosch M5 Motorsport ABS Clubsport Kit

is there any merit to tossing all the vac boost and going linear? Of course the pedal/caliper ratio will need a massive change because otherwise as we know modern car brakes are basically completely worthless without the booster even if you're trying to break the seat by bracing against it.