Heritage R for sale

[MAGS1]

100% agree on the kids stuff. You can always come back to cars. You can never go and get time back with your kids. Once time has passed, it’s gone. Wouldn’t trade that time for anything.

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[Big Business]

This is a good price, I was bidding on his auction and assumed that was whereabouts it would land price wise - the last bidder outbidding himself all the way to $80K seemed like a joke to me, not surprised it ended up being a flake. Good opportunity to also avoid the auction fees now. I just bought LR410 on BaT, you could say OP's car is a better deal especially if you like the HE

 

[Big Business]

Fair enough. Spec, mileage, and year definitely move the needle on these cars, especially the ’19–’20 examples. The right car will always bring strong money. I’m someone who needs whatever model I buy fully spec’d or nothing, otherwise I get FOMO. I love the GT350 platform, but for me it would’ve had to be a 2020 R, fully loaded with the tech pack and final updates, or not at all. At similar mileage to my Mach 1, those were 95k+ when I was shopping. I did see a Heritage spec’d that way around 87k, but with 30k miles, and 87k is still steep. At 25 and a few months out of grad school, that isn’t realistic for me. I’m really happy with where I landed, fully spec’d Mach 1, ~2k miles, around 63k. Long term, who knows, it would definitely be a dream car to add to the stable. All that said, I respect the R market and understand why the right cars bring strong money no doubt.

I'm 26, got my first R at 23 and lost it in a flood almost immediately. Just bought its replacement, hope it arrives soon. Been driving nothing other than my miserable Subaru Outback for almost 3 years stacking chips for R #2. 2020 or bust, go big or go home for me as well. I didn't really want the HEP but they dominate the 2020MY market given how many they made for the year

 

[PP0001]

The used car market overall, including niche/specialty/collector cars has come down in value over the last 3 years or so… and is trending lower at the moment.

What was selling at crazy inflated prices, the balloons have popped and the values are leveling out again.

Sites like eBay, BaT, Cars-n-Bids, etc. and the actual in-person auction events like BJ, Mecum etc. should not be used a guidance for any vehicle $$$ values. The (3) online sites mentioned are KNOWN for shill bidding activities, “dealer buddy to dealer buddy drive up my auction” activities, and listings that show as “sold” but then the vehicle resurfaces months later again for sale on different venues where the vehicle is listed over and over and over…. The in-person sites, those also experience shill bids, private party bid jacking between friends and bids driven by emotions or the my shit is bigger than yours mentality…

Vehicles like the Mustang (any year, any platform, any body configuration, and whether limited production or not) - these values are driven by actual “street values”, not “Blue Book”, not “Edmunds”, not “Hagerty”, etc.

The street value is what someone is willing to pay AND that is consistent with real world dollars, as well as real world price points. NOT “auction” sites or locales, but GENUINE historical pricing for a vehicle that has had a 60+ year following. This has been true evaluation for any Mustang I’ve seen in the 30+ years being in the hobby watching auctions (dealer auctions not those mentioned in this thread), private party sales trends, forum sales trends, classified ad sales trends (ie: listed/asking prices) and just basically being involved in Mustang Enthusiast circles for many years seeing what’s selling (and what isn’t).

YES, the “moniker” Mustangs like “Shelby”, “Saleen”, “Roush”, “SVT”, “SVO”, “RTR”, “Pettys Garage”, “BOSS”, “Bullitt”, “Mach 1”, “Cobra”, etc. - of any year - will always command a higher price point. That higher price point has determining factors such as but not limited to:

- Total Quantity Built per year

- Documentation to back up build #

- Ext/Int color combos

- Auto vs. Manual

- Option Groups vs. base/no options

- Certificate of Authenticities that include specific Ford Build #’s and dates.. Usually a lower Ford Build # will command better dollars because sometimes people seek a low build # as opposed to a higher build #. Sometimes people will also seek the last Build # or closer to last as well which can bring in better money

- Overall condition (ie: mothballed vs. driven)

- Overall miles accrued (mothballed vs driven)

- Stock or Modified

- Number of owners

- Originality (such as ext paint, int seating surfaces, original body panels, etc)

- Any other documentation to back up its history during ownership

(Let me preface this, the below statement is ONLY a hypothetical example since subject matter is a S550 Heritage R) -
Just because an S550 Heritage R sold for big bucks on Platform-X does not mean every single S550 Heritage R is now worth the same money and will sell for the same money.

The above thought process is similar to what I’ll call the McQueen effect. This is the thought process that the original 68 McQueen Bullitt Mustang Fastback sold at Mecum for over $3M - but every 68 Mustang Fastback owner thinks he or she should also be able to get $3M (OR “top dollar”) for their Mustang “just because, THAT other 68 Mustang sold for $3M”….

The used car market now is soft - and it’s due largely in part to people being upside down in car loans where they paid ridiculous money during the “covid era”. It is also because people aren’t trading up as quickly any more to a new vehicle due to economic situations. It’s also soft due to the fact that some people are struggling financially and “toys” aren’t a necessity/priority OR they plain can’t afford or don’t want to pay the prices that some used/niche/collector vehicles are priced at.

I think the OP has an extremely fair asking price. Could he raise it and try to get top dollar? Sure. The REAL used vehicle market (not auctions) is supporting lower overall prices at the moment. Sometimes people have to do what’s in their best interest if it’s selling a materialistic object at a lower price than the sheeple parade. Due to the current times, it will sell faster at the current price point than to sit for months or longer at a $6-figure ask…

The glorified online auction venues are ad-driven and click bait driven - the wilder the auction the more the draw, the more clicks, and the more revenue stream to those sites. They’re not value guides.

Sure you can look at an auction and see a vehicle or 3-5 others like it that sold for big $$$ - but it doesn’t mean those final sales are the precedence for future values or that the same vehicle in your, my or the neighbors garage will sell for the same.

Based on my experience some of the best, rarest and most desirable Mustang models whether it be a 2020 Mustang Shelby GT350R Heritage model or any other Mustang model for that matter never hit the live auctions scene or online auction sites and continually trade amongst fellow car buddies via word of mouth.

With that being said many comps and values for some of these great examples are never exposed for a great deal of rare Mustang models.

Recall a couple of cases not all that long ago whereby some well-known auction houses reached out to friends of mine and offered well over $200K for a 2015 Shelby GT350R and in another case an auction house offered well north of $300K for a pre-production 2016 Shelby GT350R model.

With respect to shill bidding being centered around some of these online auction houses, do you really think that is a big concern of theirs?

The way in which they have their business models set up whether shill bidding is prevalent or not, these online auction houses still collect their 5% commission whether the high bid is legitimate or not.

If some individuals want to roll the dice and engage in shill bidding in exchange for paying a 5% commission and up to a maximum of $7500, doesn't look like a very sound business practice from my standpoint.

 

[Big Business]

Ironically given the discussion around shill bidding, I personally thought OP's auction was shill bidding at the time, given how high the bid went on day 2 or 3 ($75K, I remember) and then the actions of the final bidder (outbidding himself...never seen that). The OP emailed me later telling me the sale fell through and I thought it was fishy to be honest, I ignored him, lol - now I see it was indeed true. This presents a great deal for someone else now

 

[anacar312]

Just thought I'd update the thread, the car has been sold and is awaiting transport to its new owner. She's going to a good home with all the goodies and extras included.

 

[dhope618]

i am new to the gt 350r been doing my research..........i see a few cars with basically 30-2000 miles going for 110-160k,,,is this its normal market price for someone who will not drive it but sparingly

 

[CorralesR]

i am new to the gt 350r been doing my research..........i see a few cars with basically 30-2000 miles going for 110-160k,,,is this its normal market price for someone who will not drive it but sparingly

That is VERY dependent on several factors. Year matters. 16 to 18 are valued a bit less than 19 and 20. Spec and color matters. Certain color options are worth more. Car history and condition matters. With low miles like you listed, generally the 16 to 18 cars would be 70k to 85k. The 19 and 20 cars would be 80k to maybe 100k. The 2020 Heritage R is the most valuable with those cars selling from high 90k to 150k.
Ford made very low numbers in 2015 and those are 150k to 250k. But those are outliers.

 

[anacar312]

i am new to the gt 350r been doing my research..........i see a few cars with basically 30-2000 miles going for 110-160k,,,is this its normal market price for someone who will not drive it but sparingly

Six figures is the norm for 2015 Rs as well as 2020 Rs with the Heritage Edition Package and low/delivery miles.
@CorralesR assessment above is accurate.

2020 cars generally bring the most because they have two big updates: GT500 steering rack and Gen II block (2019 and 2020).

Personally, if and when I get back into the GR350Rs I'd avoid the delivery mile cars. I'd want one with at least a couple thousand miles so (1) I'm not devaluing the car with every drive and (2) I'd have more confidence that it has a healthy power plant. As far as I know with the known issue with the secondary timing chain tensioner not being activated in some engines (Ford has a TSB with serial numbers so you can check before buying) but any issues typically showed themselves very early on, usually within a couple hundred miles. I could not imagine buying a delivery mile car, going out for a drive, having a catastrophic issue.... and no warranty.

Other than that, my only other advice would be to buy the owner more than the car. I'd rather have a higher milage car from an owner that has loved the car, has all service records, owners box, window sticker, etc. than buy from a dealer that can only show you an OASIS report and/or Carfax.

Oh, and once more tidbit.... drive the damn thing! Cars are meant to be driven and will rot if they are not. Otherwise you may as well invest in something that you can hang on the wall and stare at. Just my $0.02.

 

[PP0001]

i am new to the gt 350r been doing my research..........i see a few cars with basically 30-2000 miles going for 110-160k,,,is this its normal market price for someone who will not drive it but sparingly

Lots of great knowledge on this GT350/R forum to draw from but I am curious if you presently own a Mustang Shelby GT350R and if so please provide us with some details about your R model such as model year, color, options, chassis number, provenance and present odometer reading?

 

[MAGS1]

Oh, and once more tidbit.... drive the damn thing!

Amen brother

 

[dhope618]

i’m looking at one with about 3000 miles. It’s a little expensive but I do like the color which I understand the heritage color and the history behind it and I’m fine with that also but those have very low miles to once on the market now I found one that’s a nun hair edition with about 3000 miles price a little expensive but what’s expensive today it’s not expensive tomorrow and you just regret not getting the car you wanted so I’m just waiting on the bank approval if I get your approval filed if not, I move on

Lots of great knowledge on this GT350/R forum to draw from but I am curious if you presently own a Mustang Shelby GT350R and if so please provide us with some details about your R model such as model year, color, options, chassis number, provenance and present odometer reading?

i am looking at 2 that i liken… a heritage and one that is a very low production color one is 500 miles and -2000 miles difference the price is roughly $7000. I have a friend who’s very much into the Mustang world that says that I should buy the heritage all day long so I’d like to get some advice.

 

[Inthehighdesert]

Buy the car that appeals to you, whichever it is.

i’m looking at one with about 3000 miles. It’s a little expensive but I do like the color which I understand the heritage color and the history behind it and I’m fine with that also but those have very low miles to once on the market now I found one that’s a nun hair edition with about 3000 miles price a little expensive but what’s expensive today it’s not expensive tomorrow and you just regret not getting the car you wanted so I’m just waiting on the bank approval if I get your approval filed if not, I move on

i am looking at 2 that i liken… a heritage and one that is a very low production color one is 500 miles and -2000 miles difference the price is roughly $7000. I have a friend who’s very much into the Mustang world that says that I should buy the heritage all day long so I’d like to get some advice.

 

[Mach 307]

i’m looking at one with about 3000 miles. It’s a little expensive but I do like the color which I understand the heritage color and the history behind it and I’m fine with that also but those have very low miles to once on the market now I found one that’s a nun hair edition with about 3000 miles price a little expensive but what’s expensive today it’s not expensive tomorrow and you just regret not getting the car you wanted so I’m just waiting on the bank approval if I get your approval filed if not, I move on

i am looking at 2 that i liken… a heritage and one that is a very low production color one is 500 miles and -2000 miles difference the price is roughly $7000. I have a friend who’s very much into the Mustang world that says that I should buy the heritage all day long so I’d like to get some advice.

My 2 cents, I vote buy the heritage all day.

 

[PP0001]

i’m looking at one with about 3000 miles. It’s a little expensive but I do like the color which I understand the heritage color and the history behind it and I’m fine with that also but those have very low miles to once on the market now I found one that’s a nun hair edition with about 3000 miles price a little expensive but what’s expensive today it’s not expensive tomorrow and you just regret not getting the car you wanted so I’m just waiting on the bank approval if I get your approval filed if not, I move on

i am looking at 2 that i liken… a heritage and one that is a very low production color one is 500 miles and -2000 miles difference the price is roughly $7000. I have a friend who’s very much into the Mustang world that says that I should buy the heritage all day long so I’d like to get some advice.

I have to agree with your Mustang friend and suggest that you purchase the Heritage Edition Package GT350R which honors 55 years of these track focused Mustang Shelby GT350/R models.

Looking back many years from now the extra $7,000 cost will be money very well spent!

Good luck!!

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