Help with dealership oil change advice

[Ghostrealm]

This is the part that was scraped . Just a question can these be removed and replaced ? What is the area i circled called. Just the frame? I circled in the first pic yellow and the second pic blue. ITs the part of the frame that slopes and bends up like a ski.. Is this detachable? Since the bare metal is showing abut 2 inches fromt from the scrape would it make sense to use a self etching primer just to seal it again as that will be exposed to salt etc I wouldnt want that little scrape causing rust. What material is this it made from Alluminum? What primer does Ford use at the factory. I will try to paint and replicate back to original?Thanks,

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[NoVaGT]

This is the longest story I've ever read to say that you scraped the bottom of a low riding sports car. It happens my dude, spray something on there if you're worried about rust otherwise its seriously not a big deal.

This.

Another example of being emotionally obsessed over a car. I don't know how people this obsessed ever get to actually enjoy owning and driving their vehicle.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I wish I can dyi. However I dont have a hoist. Are there places I can go to hoist for a few and allow me to work on it? One would think the dealer would do a nice job without causing a problem?

You would be amazed at what can be done with the car on jack stands or ramp. Neither are expensive. To change oil, I just drive my vehicles up a set of ramps and slide under from the front.

 

[Cobra Jet]

You’ll never get the exact match if trying to replicate the Ford color.

Once the body shell is assembled, it goes into a zinc laden bath (along with other chemicals). The chemical bath cleanses the metal, etches it and adheres to it to protect against corrosion. The shell then proceeds onto the path to be primed. Once primered, it hits the color booth where the car is painted and cleared. The underside of the car and many other areas are not coated as heavily with paint and only has a minimal coating of clearcoat (if any) - these areas are not to be as shiny or finished looking as the exterior body panels.

So the scrape you now have is down to bare metal - past the color, primer and chemical coating.

Go onto Eastwood’s site and order a pint of POR15. Use that to seal the scrape from future corrosion. This is the sole purpose of that coating, and it is best to use in such areas instead of primer due to road and weather debris abuse the underside of the car takes.

As far as getting to color matched, good luck - even if you bought the exact body color in spray cans or pints to spray, it will NEVER match, the spray will come out darker than the factory applied layer.

 

[kz]

ALL ramps make oil changes much easier compared to a Quickjack or jack and stands. Takes seconds to drive it up ramps. Easy to get to filter and drain even at ramp height. Quickjack for when you need more height or access to more things or need to remove wheels.

Only inconvenience with the ramps is putting oil back in the engine with car not being level gets little tricky to get the right level.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

Only inconvenience with the ramps is putting oil back in the engine with car not being level gets little tricky to get the right level.

You put in the published amount and be done. Or if you think or know your car takes less than that, put less in until you roll/drive it off the ramps.

 

[17Magnetic5.0]

Only inconvenience with the ramps is putting oil back in the engine with car not being level gets little tricky to get the right level.

I just sit in the car put in neutral take the parking brake off and that’s usually enough to get me off the ramp and rolling off if not I’ll try to jerk the car back a bit while still sitting in it. Usually works

 

[17Magnetic5.0]

I know exactly what type of lift OP is talking about as I worked as a mechanic for a bit. Don’t know why the mechanic was so lazy as to leave the jack when it’s just one lever to make it go back to it’s closed position. Also with the jack in the upward position the ramp wouldn’t be able to come all the way down. Granted you could still probably drive a car on it but even then I would be scared with scraping the front of an s550 being it’s a bit low. Honestly it’s the mechanics fault for being lazy and thinking the jack would clear it when a car is not intended to be driven on with the jack in that position. But also at the same OP should’ve realized it would scrape otherwise if you don’t have experience using the lift leave it to the mechanics. I’m surprised they would even let him drive it on as there’s so much that could go wrong and the dealers insurance would have to pay.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

I know exactly what type of lift OP is talking about as I worked as a mechanic for a bit. Don’t know why the mechanic was so lazy as to leave the jack when it’s just one lever to make it go back to it’s closed position. Also with the jack in the upward position the ramp would be able to come all the way down. Granted you could still probably drive a car on it but even then I would be scared with scraping the front of an s550 being it’s a bit low. Honestly it’s the mechanics fault for being lazy and thinking the jack would clear it when a car is not intended to be driven on with the jack in that position. But also at the same OP should’ve realized it would scrape otherwise if you don’t have experience using the lift leave it to the mechanics. I’m surprised they would even let him drive it on as there’s so much that could go wrong and the dealers insurance would have to pay.

Someone posted the OP was lucky the mechanic let him drive it on (after the OP saying or implying he didn't trust the mechanic).

Don't rule out the mechanic giving a lesson.

 

[17Magnetic5.0]

Someone posted the OP was lucky the mechanic let him drive it on (after the OP saying or implying he didn't trust the mechanic).

Don't rule out the mechanic giving a lesson.

Honestly probably what it was because someone that uses the lifts everyday should know it won’t clear it and if he’s guiding the car up he should be able to see that it won’t.

 

[Torched10]

I used to do all my oil changes, but my local dealer does an oil change in 1/2 hr with full synthetic Motorcraft and filter for $40. I can't even buy the stuff for that price.

Still do them on the F250. That would cost $125 with just Rotella T4. The "Diesel Mechanic" labor rate is too damn high.



I tried that lift once and found it to be a PITA. The only access was from either end of the car. On jack stands you have access from the sides as well.

I had my first oil change today.have a local garage do it as I watched.the old filter weighed at least twice the new one.buy my oil kit from k man's oil,10 qts motor craft pure synthetic and filter 65 bucks.my guy charges 20 to change everything..much better than dealership.

 

[HoosierDaddy]

We all care too much about things other people don't.

And.... ya don't win the Pebble Beach Concours d'Elegance Mustang Daily Driver competition with scrapes like those.

 

[Ghostrealm]

Thanks guys sorry for being so obsessed over something so small. I am just upset I wanted to keep this car car in great shape.

The Jack the mechanic told me was lowered to the lowest position. Is there a way that Jack could of been taken off altogether? I was lucky they let me drive it on the ramp however I'm not so tech savvy and I didn't even notice there was Jack. It's like a hump in the middle of the lift.i just followed his instructions to drive up on it.

As for por 15 I am going to buy that. Would you recommend buying self etch primer first than the por 15? Or just por 15 on it's own and that's it.

After por 15 is on can I spray a grey primer over it?
Thanks guys

 

[jcl78]

Hey Ghostrealm, if it were me I would purchase some Rustoleum Rust Converter in flat black for 6 bucks and spray the scratched area using a sweeping motion, ensuring it is not too thick. My FJ Cruiser had some chassis scratches from off road use, and some of them had rust forming. I sprayed the frame rails, differential, skid plate, etc with that stuff over 2 years ago and I haven't had to touch it since, really good product. I am sure you can attack it several ways as I am sure it has no rust (yet) but I think that would work great and be cost effective.

I do concur with others, a set of race ramps and doing your own oil changes are the only way you ensure this stuff doesn't happen. It definitely could be worse, like them shorting you a few quarts, not securing the oil filter or drain plug, stripping your oil pan, etc. I have had all the above happen in my earlier driving days, and switched to changing all my vehicle's oil and performing all basic maintenance to ensure it is done right.

 

[Rock&Roll]

I tried the Dealer a couple times for oil changes. One time they skipped a quart of oil and the other time they argued with me that I don’t need Synthetic over and over again. Okay but I’m the customer and that’s what I want. I had no idea what they put in but I was done with them.

Race Ramps are great.


I could never use those $1k lifts some of you guys use. I’d be scared the entire time that it would collapse on me. Jack stands are cool but I’d be worried of them falling on me as well.

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