Help me justify a price-short throw shifter

[shogun32]

Is this what you're referring to?

https://www.steeda.com/steeda-s550-mustang-shifter-base-bushing-bracket-kit-2015-all-555-7092.html

Yes but damn that's getting expensive for a bit of poly or delrin. I recommend the $20 solution a few posts upward.

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[Jaymar]

Pretty sure it's been illegal for 30+ years to sell any shift mechanism that doesn't have reverse lockout of some kind.

My '96 Mustang and '02 Ranger disagree.

 

[Mgt2]

Steeda is the only shifter to retain the factory reverse lockout right? My wife drives the mustang every once in a while and on my WRX with a aftermarket shifter would sometimes end up in reverse at red lights thinking she was in first. So yeah I wanna retain the lockout

Barton retains the lockout as well. Have been having it on my pp2 for 3yrs now and had it on my 2015 gt premium. It is a great shifter.
if you end up buying the Barton, get the trans-mount install for long term benefits.

 

[qwert7699]

I have the flat stick Barton, and I went that way for a couple reasons. 1. Looks, I think it looks better than the stock look and way better than the mgw(my opinion everyone has their own preference). 2. Versatility, it’s my first stick car and I wasn’t sure if I’d like the transmounted way so I liked the idea of going back to body mounted if I didn’t love it. 3. Feel, I tried both the mgw and the Barton from buddies cars and I preferred the way the Barton felt. I like that it was clear and crisp without being overly notchy in my opinion the mgw was too notchy and not my style. All that being said I run my flat stick Barton transmounted and use the mgw gripper cylinder with stainless steel top for my shift knob ( as I think the gripper knobs are the best shift knobs around) it comes down to preference and if you have the opportunity try them so you know what you’re getting into. If you want a short throw that will look stock go with the Barton pull up style if you don’t care about that see what you can try and go from there.

 

[MrMike]

Yes but damn that's getting expensive for a bit of poly or delrin. I recommend the $20 solution a few posts upward.

Agree, but the price would bother me a lot more if it doesn't work lol. The install instructions on Steeda's link w/pics also helped me understand what is being discussed too. The goal is to firm up the current shifter, reducing slop with a lot less effort than swapping the shifter itself.

 

[WhitemarePP]

When my throw out bearing started leaking last year, I pulled the trans to fix it and while I was there I added an MGW, an RST, braided lines, BG fluid, etc. It’s now a much different car. The MGW can be notchy at times (not always) but personally I prefer the direct mechanical feel of it compared to the rubbery disconnected feel of the stock unit. The car drives like a V8 crotch rocket now. The ONLY thing I’ve thought about changing is the way the reverse lockout works. Sometimes I wish I’d gone with the collar pull up instead of the push down mechanism to engage reverse.

 

[shogun32]

The goal is to firm up the current shifter, reducing slop with a lot less effort than swapping the shifter itself.

I thought the goal was to spend money.

All my cars have gotten this mod.

 

[Nightmonkey]

Agree, but the price would bother me a lot more if it doesn't work lol. The install instructions on Steeda's link w/pics also helped me understand what is being discussed too. The goal is to firm up the current shifter, reducing slop with a lot less effort than swapping the shifter itself.

Get the $20 solution, no need to spend $100.

Give this a try as a starter:
https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/4.1145
Day / night difference to the loose OEM rubber bushing and not so expensive as the Steeda with the unnecessary alloy piece.

 

[Mitt]

Agree, but the price would bother me a lot more if it doesn't work lol. The install instructions on Steeda's link w/pics also helped me understand what is being discussed too. The goal is to firm up the current shifter, reducing slop with a lot less effort than swapping the shifter itself.

I did the Steeda shifter base bushing and short throw. The busing removed all of the slop.

Hurst and Whiteline also make a replacement bushing, but both retain the factory thin metal bracket. I can't speak to how well they work, but they are cheaper than the Steeda.




I have heard people complain about getting in to reverse with the barton.

 

[Nightmonkey]

...but both retain the factory thin metal bracket...

The sheet metal is solid because it has been complexly formed and is therefore very rigid.

@jd_cobra
There's nothing to laugh about, before you deform that bracket, you're more likely break of the shifter.

 

[Jaymar]

The sheet metal is solid because it has been complexly formed and is therefore very rigid.

@jd_cobra
There's nothing to laugh about, before you deform that bracket, you're more likely break of the shifter.

You can flex formed sheet metal without deforming it. Have you ever driven a Fox body over a speed bump?

 

[jd_cobra]

You can flex formed sheet metal without deforming it. Have you ever driven a Fox body over a speed bump?

Exactly. People think you need to deform something in order to cause it to flex when that’s just not true at all. That thin excuse of a “bracket” is just another area where ford decided to be a cheap ass unfortunately.

 

[DRKHORS]

If you want a directly connected mechanical feel, no lockout issues, and a shorter throw, go with MGW. Had one on my 2015 and loved it. It was stiff at first (not overly so), and loosened up a little over time. It's been a while, but when I reached out to George and his team, I could not have been more pleased with their service.

 

[Nightmonkey]

You can flex formed sheet metal without deforming it.

People think you need to deform something in order to cause it to flex when that’s just not true at all.

The rigidity of a component depends not only on the thickness of the material, but also on its profile.
That's why there is something like the i-beam, less weight with good rigidity.
This is exactly how the OEM bracket for the shifter works, the profile in which the "thin" sheet is formed, makes it rigid.
Just take it in your own hands and try to bend it...

The aluminum part from Steeda can do nothing better, except shine beautifully.
The OEM rubber part, on the other hand, is as flabby as a granny hooker.

If you don't want to spend $500 on a shifter, then the $20 PU bushing will do the job.

 

[subframe]

The other thing that I did was remove the factory shifter exterior mounted counter weights. Along with the MGW shifter and SS clutch line, the perfect setup for me

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