Hellion Kit Owner's (Chime In)

[Dennisn]

I have the kit in mine. I do not daily drive it but do drive over an hour to get to the track when I go. It does get hot under the hood. It is a well made kit. im still working out my bugs.. Put down 750 rwhp in 90 degree heat. (E85).

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[Pincushin3819]

I have the kit in mine. I do not daily drive it but do drive over an hour to get to the track when I go. It does get hot under the hood. It is a well made kit. im still working out my bugs.. Put down 750 rwhp in 90 degree heat. (E85).

What size turbos?
How lbs of boost?
Auto or manual?
What bugs are you working out?

 

[FATHERFORD]

I can't stand the under-hood mounted kits. We have one here that we see IAT's in the 160's from time to time. Everything has to be heat wrapped or you start melting stuff. Do they work? Sure.. But, the mid-mount stuff is where it's at.

I'm confident that is more intercooler layout/size then turbo placement. Driving around my IAT's aren't but 1-2 degrees above ambient.

Not saying midmounts aren't slightly better, but there are a lot more factors then just turbo placement.

 

[PatrickGT]

The Hellion setup,
a) adds more weight to the front of the car
b) The weight is way above the center of gravity which will affect your turning
c) Too much heat build up in the engine bay which WILL affect all the rubbers and plastic allot faster than a stock car as it was designed.
d) The air filters sucking hot air from engine bay

The Twin under the car
a) moves the weight to middle section of the car and not front
b) The weight is closer to center of gravity.
c) No heat build up in engine bay
d) both air filters get fresh cool air from the front.

You forgot to mention the additional lag, less throttle response, and boost leak from having the undermount turbos.

I mean there is a reason the Germans are all pulling the snails to the V of the motors, keep the hot sh*t together where it operates at peak efficiency and all that.

 

[Dennisn]

Turbos are 55's
10.5 lbs boost
Auto

Still have to figure out the correct size oil restrictors. I'm getting little bit of blueish smoke out the exhaust. Getting some surging which I'm not sure the cause.

If on pump gas some have false knock issues.

 

[Pincushin3819]

Turbos are 55's
10.5 lbs boost
Auto

Still have to figure out the correct size oil restrictors. I'm getting little bit of blueish smoke out the exhaust. Getting some surging which I'm not sure the cause.

If on pump gas some have false knock issues.

That's awesome numbers through the auto on 10.5lbs. You mentioned that you drive an hr to the track, 1/4 or 1/8 & what is the MPH?

That smoke is embarrassing coming for a brand new car, I had to same problem with my first turbo kit & non enthusiasts were like what the hell is wrong with your car at every light & why does it whistle like that :lol:
But on serious note, if your getting knock on pump gas only it might not be false.

 

[Dennisn]

Only made it to the track once so far, All four passes trapped 137 in 1/4. Ranged from a 10.4 to a best of 10.2 in 90 degree heat. Think the 1/8's were 109 mph.

Knock was definitely false. Spent a month chasing and trying to eliminate it and could not. Would pull 6 degrees on race gas on very low timing.

 

[Z_Rocks]

I love this kit! It is everything I'm looking for in a kit but at over 10k with no fueling, tuning & install its pretty steep. I do understand the time & quality of something like this & I totally appreciate craftsmanship but it is a competitive market out there & this is a 35k car not a Lambo. If there was more of a price option from a cost effective stand point I would definitely be all over this kit.

Before giving up, talk to the owner, he is very reasonable man. I have had several Turbo systems, and due to the nature of this beast (dealing with lots of air pressure and heat) you need good quality components that last a long time. A good intercoolr with good core can run you up to $2,000. Ball bearing turbos are expensive. The labor to build those headers cost allot. If he doesn't make any money, then he will go out of business. So, when putting all that together, it comes to $10K. You can goes Chinese way, but in six months you have to buy new components and turbos and etc. I had a custom twin built for me a few years ago and it was $20K, and I put allot of personal design into it and when I sold the car, I made $15K on the top.

 

[Z_Rocks]

You forgot to mention the additional lag, less throttle response, and boost leak from having the undermount turbos.

I mean there is a reason the Germans are all pulling the snails to the V of the motors, keep the hot sh*t together where it operates at peak efficiency and all that.

I agree with you, but the Germans design the engine and engine bay with turbo placement in mind. Ford didn't...;)

Once you learn your turbo setup and it's active point (the rpm that needs to keep the boost level at the edge), you can drive it with zero lag. I say this from 15 years of turbo driving, i.e. V8 to I4. Driving a turbo is way different than a PD car. Driving a turbo, is like getting a woman hot first then.... :cheers:

 

[v8440]

You forgot to mention the additional lag, less throttle response, and boost leak from having the undermount turbos.

I mean there is a reason the Germans are all pulling the snails to the V of the motors, keep the hot sh*t together where it operates at peak efficiency and all that.

I'm not sure I follow. Having the turbos hung right off the manifolds , thereby minimizing the heat and velocity loss between the exhaust ports and turbine housings ADDS lag? How does that work? What boost leak? Is there some inevitable leak that would occur on a low mount turbo setup? Having the hot shit all together is great, but what's really important is having the exhaust be able to reach the turbine housing quickly, with minimal loss of velocity. THAT'S why they're putting the hot shit in the V of the motor, because having all the ports right there keeps velocity up. Lots of hot shit a long way from the ports is probably better than spread out hot shit a long way from the ports, but I'll take hot shit close to the ports over either of those scenarios any day. Not having the center of the sun under the hood is a bonus.

 

[TwinTurboMustang.net]

You forgot to mention the additional lag, less throttle response, and boost leak from having the undermount turbos.

I mean there is a reason the Germans are all pulling the snails to the V of the motors, keep the hot sh*t together where it operates at peak efficiency and all that.

Oh boy..umm okay I'll try to explain this without coming off as a "A" hole. But if we were having a beer and you shared that thought to me, "assuming we were friends" I would reach over the table and smack you...lol Come on man! This type of thinking is from comic books or drunken monkeys.

Dude, for reals you don't know what you are sharing when you say stuff like "additional lag" and "throttle response". For those that know me, I will call someone out when they are misinformed or completely full of shit.

Lag comes from several factors. Number one is the turbo sizing both compressor and exhaust sides. In addition to that, how the exhaust comes out and enters the turbos is very important. But wait folks...there's more...I know you aren't going to believe this but the Tuning also plays a role in the "lag" or "throttle response".

Nothing but love here man, just defending the facts. Real talk.

 

[v8440]

You guy's reasoning for putting the turbos close to the exhaust ports underneath the car is probably the same as mine for putting the turbos above the exhaust ports, but still close-quick spooling. In my case, I'm mounting 2 small T3 flange turbos on a 5.3 ls motor in a datsun 240z, and using flipped corvette manifolds with some surgery done to mount them high. There's not room to put them right underneath. Same idea though-get hot exhaust, still moving fast, into the turbines as quickly as possible. I expect mine to spool like yesterday. Anyway, sorry to go kinda off topic.

 

[Pincushin3819]

I have twin AGP mid mount kit on a Camaro, there is absolutely no lag, boost leaks or heat problems. I read the comment earlier in the thread & thought it was just a joke. But seeing that some would take it seriously I thought I should share my opinion. Kits like the Blackbird, Boostworks, AGP & ect. are far superior in keeping heat from the turbos away from engine components that were not designed to take the abuse. The German cars are designed with the turbos in mind to work with the motor & around it for the most efficiency the S550's were not. I had a single front mount turbo on the Camaro before I switched to the mid mount & let me tell you the front mount was a nightmare. Within weeks I had plastic & rubber pieces under the hood that looked worn & dry rotted from heat. My balancer paint was peeling off & my belts starting to crack. Yeah it performed & made good power but it was f'ING my car up qiuck. The Hellion kit & even one of the singles kits offered is close to the design I was having problems with, that's why I started this thread in the first place. I wish more owners would chime in & give there experiences with the kit other than a performance stand point. For what it's worth I even had the front mount kit wrapped with no help then taken off & ceramic coated with the same results.

 

[amhauke]

I'm a new Hellion owner and I looked at every single supercharger and turbo offered. I could've bought any of them. I decided on the Hellion kit because of the proven track record, customer service, bang for your buck, and pure wow factor when I opened the hood. I like to see what I spent my money on as well. This kit was very thorough and all the piping fit like money. Only complaint would be the lack of detail in the instructions.

My kit is the twin 62 billet wheel tuner kit. I did all the work including fuel system, boost controller, and motor upgrades for the power level myself. I made 763 on 10.3lbs and 844 on 13.3lbs through factory manifolds on a mustang dyno. Fuel is E85 and I have an auto as well. Dyno ambient shop temps were 100F and my IAT's didn't go above 113F and coolant temps never went above 190F. We probably did 9 pulls that day. Cruising around IAT's never get above 1-2 deg above ambient. I have zero issues with under hood temps. I used DEI wrap on all of the hot side and heat tape on anything I thought would need to be heat shielded. My car is not a daily driver but it drives like stock. No stress on the crank from a blower belt and no blower belt problems ever! Need a 1k plus horsepower just turn up the boost on the controller. Take your time and do a quality install and you'll have a quality outcome. Below is my thread with pictures and a video.
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59694

 

[beefcake]

I'm a new Hellion owner and I looked at every single supercharger and turbo offered. I could've bought any of them. I decided on the Hellion kit because of the proven track record, customer service, bang for your buck, and pure wow factor when I opened the hood. I like to see what I spent my money on as well.

My kit is the twin 62 billet wheel tuner kit. I did all the work including fuel system, boost controller, and motor upgrades for the power level myself. I made 763 on 10.3lbs and 844 on 13.3lbs through factory manifolds on a mustang dyno. Fuel is E85 and I have an auto as well. Dyno ambient shop temps were 100F and my IAT's didn't go above 113F and coolant temps never went above 190F. We probably did 9 pulls that day. Cruising around IAT's never get above 1-2 deg above ambient. I have zero issues with under hood temps. I used DEI wrap on all of the hot side and heat tape on anything I thought would need to be heat shielded. My car is not a daily driver but it drives like stock. No stress on the crank from a blower belt and no blower belt problems ever! Need a 1k plus horsepower just turn up the boost on the controller. Take your time and do a quality install and you'll have a quality outcome. Below is my thread with pictures and a video.
http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59694

^^^^^

Very nice!

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