Heavier Summer Oil

[Motokan]

This summer, want to use a thicker oil.
Scuttle butt says it' ok to go thicker
in summer.
Feedback please

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[SnowFox]

This summer, want to use a thicker oil.
Scuttle butt says it' ok to go thicker
in summer.
Feedback please

 

[Skye]

Some more detail would help with the discussion.

What Model Year is the car?

Does it have any modifications to the engine or drivetrain?

What is the primary purpose of the vehicle? DD, track, drag strip, etc.

What weight and brand of oil are you using now?

What brand, type and octane of fuel are you using?

What temperatures do you anticipate seeing this Summer?

How often do you change the oil? Or do you use the OLM?

Why do you want to use a heavier weight oil?

Thanks.

 

[bKennedy]

I live in NC and run 5W-30 all year. If you are in a colder climate you may want to run the 5W-20 in winter but in summer the 5W-30 should be fine I have around 70K miles on my car now and have never had a problem.

 

[robvas]

I live in NC and run 5W-30 all year. If you are in a colder climate you may want to run the 5W-20 in winter but in summer the 5W-30 should be fine I have around 70K miles on my car now and have never had a problem.

You mean run 0W30 when it's colder, 5W20 isn't going to be any better in the cold.

 

[EchoFiveR3531]

Here you go..... do some searching around there for Gen3 Coyote and have a learn.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/

 

[GTP]

Yeah, another popcorn thread.

My POV is that provided the engine stays at design operating temperature there is no need to change the oil viscosity.

Typical CHT on street driving is 195F. Monitor that and so long as it stays that temp on cold or hot days then there is no need to change oil weight. Many of us run 5w30 full synthetic for this scenario.

Furthermore I use 12cs viscosity for preferred viscosity. IIRC this is 20wt for street driving. On track my CHT runs 230. 40wt is 12cs at that temp. So I run Mobil 1 0w40 Euro oil from the 12qt box on track. If I think I can get through a full oil cycle between track events then I will put 30wt back in.

 

[EchoFiveR3531]

Yeah, another popcorn thread.

My POV is that provided the engine stays at design operating temperature there is no need to change the oil viscosity.

Typical CHT on street driving is 195F. Monitor that and so long as it stays that temp on cold or hot days then there is no need to change oil weight. Many of us run 5w30 full synthetic for this scenario.

Furthermore I use 12cs viscosity for preferred viscosity. IIRC this is 20wt for street driving. On track my CHT runs 230. 40wt is 12cs at that temp. So I run Mobil 1 0w40 Euro oil from the 12qt box on track. If I think I can get through a full oil cycle between track events then I will put 30wt back in.

I've had similar experience on a different platform running 5-30 as specified by OEM. Issue was that I was on the Dyno tuning a built motor with an upgraded turbo.

My oil pressure was dropping below the comfort level due to high temps. Issue was resolved by moving to 0-40 but I did that based on need/data not here say. That car would see oil temps in the 220s on summer days.

 

[GR1MxREAPER]

If your NA and drive the car normal with occasional racing or messing around run 5w30. If your supercharged or twin turbo’d or race a lot and beat on your car then run 5w50. If you drive your car in the winter where it gets really cold like the Midwest or Canada then run 0w30/0w50 in the winter. Otherwise you can just run 5w30 in the winter also. Do not under any circumstances run that garbage 0w20 ever in any vehicle lol. That shit is too thin and sucks lol…. .

 

[bKennedy]

I'm more worried about the heat in the summer that is why I run the 5w-30 in very hot weather and think 5w-20 would be fine in a cold climate in the winter. 0W may have its place in some states, I lived in MN and it may be good there in the winter, but the guy posting the question lives in PA. I lived in OH for many years and it is at the same latitude as PA and I don't think he would ever have to go to 0 weight in the winter.






































0w

 

[SnowFox]

Here you go..... do some searching around there for Gen3 Coyote and have a learn.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/

Most condescending place online. 90% of threads boil down to:

"What did manufacture suggest"

"Only paper"

"Whatever is on sale"

Trickle in some euro spec bickering.

That's the entire site

 

[EchoFiveR3531]

Oh mind

Most condescending place online. 90% of threads boil down to:

"What did manufacture suggest"

"Only paper"

"Whatever is on sale"

Trickle in some euro spec bickering.

That's the entire site

Oh mind you I never said make a post in a thread there, I merely suggested searching around and reading some threads.

Then using critical thinking skills to make an informed decision for ones self as many of us have done. I'll completely agreed with you it's a bit ridiculous over there but if you want to know about oil it's a resource.

The Motor Oil Geek on YouTube is great also if you have hours to kill learning about engine lubrication.

 

[G.T.]

Most condescending place online. 90% of threads boil down to:

"What did manufacture suggest"

"Only paper"

"Whatever is on sale"

Trickle in some euro spec bickering.

That's the entire site

 

[sk47]

Hello; Oil??? Back when I first knew of oil I think it was mostly straight 30 weight. I used it in lawn mowers. The old sort with no safety features. The sort you killed the engine by pushing a metal grounding strap over onto the exposed spark plug. No other practical way to stop it from running.
The first multi weight I used was 10-w-30. That was the go-to oil for a long time. Thin like 10 weight oil when the engine is cold. Additives in the oil caused it to thicken to 30 weight as it got warm and then hot.
(NOTE- this was the reverse of how most liquids, including oils normally work. pour a dab of Canola oil in a cold skillet. Try tilting the skillet when clod and watch the oil. Then turn on a burner and let the skillet get warm to hot and tilt the skillet. The oil gets thinner and moves around easier.)
10-w-30 oil was a neat trick. That way you got effectively easier to move 10 weight oil when starting from cold. The 10 weight would course thru the engine easier at that crucial cold time. The oil only stayed at the thinner 10 weight for a little while. As the engine warmed up it got to a thicker viscosity which is good for crank & cam bearings, cam lobes and such.
Later on, 5-w-30 became more common. Both my current vehicles call for 5-w-30. They are over 20 years old. I can run 10-w-30 if the air temp is to be above freezing during the length of time I will be driving the vehicle. Back when I drove more miles I would change to 10-w-30 in the spring and back to 5-w-30 in the fall.

0-w-20 scares me a bit. 0-w-16 scares me a lot. Not so much the 0 since the oil will thicken soon and I can baby the engine till it gets warm. I do wonder about my neighbor who starts her car, drives the 75 feet to the major county highway and guns it to 60 MPH or better right away. I do wonder about the 0 part of oil if in fact her vehicle uses the stuff.
It is the 16 & 20 hot weight I think about. Does it really do the job well or is it part of the EPA and other such agencies squeeze placed onto manufacturers to squeeze max MPG's out of ICE engines in order to try to meet onerous fleet MPG standards.
(THANKFULLY some of those onerous standards are relaxed, at least, for a while.)

Ford changed Coyote to 5-w-30 a little while back is what I have been reading. My guess is to maybe prevent some ongoing engine problems. With the cam phasers and other things that work on oil I guess 5-w-30 is OK.
I already change oil at 3000 miles regardless of the labels. I am more interested in engine longevity than squeezing fractions of MPG's out. Working so far as my car is now 25 years old & my truck is 22 years old. An anecdotal observation at best. May well be my good looks at work.

My car has a timing chain is one reason I change oil at 3000 miles. I want the chain, tensioners and other overhead cam stuff lubed with clean oil.

To the question of the thread as I understand it. I would not change to a lighter weight oil for hot weather. The weight does not have much, if anything, to do with heat. My take is any weight will move heat. I do not know if a Mustang has an extra oil cooler built in from the factory. My truck does. Maybe having such an oil cooler added would be the way to go???

I have a feeling the stock setup and oil is good enough. Maybe not for track days or racing in Death Valley???

 

[Crew4991]

Buckle up boys, here we go again!



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