Has anyone else run into fitment issues with the Cortex Racing bumpsteer kit?

[offroadkarter]

This is an issue I've been battling for a few weeks now, I'm currently awaiting a follow up call or email from the tech support team.

I bought a bumpsteer kit from Cortex Racing and upon initial install, one of the two studs did not seat all the way into the spindle. The taper was a bit too wide so it left a bit of a gap.

Bad stud

Good stud

Now I'd like to point out, this problem was true for both spindles on the car. The good stud fit both sides perfect, the bad stud did not fit either side.

I sent these photos to Cortex and they promptly mailed me a replacement, which must have been for another application (thinking S197) because this one was too small/skinny.

Upon hearing that news, they sent me two brand new in the bag studs, which are the right thickness this time but the same problem as before, wrong taper.

From L to R - Good stud, first replacement stud that is too skinny, second replacement stud that has wrong taper

New bad stud fitment. This is with the nut torqued down.

I measured the widest point of the taper on everything and forwarded it to Cortex. Sales looped in Tech who I'm currently waiting to hear from.

Good stud

Stock tie rod

Original bad stud (this got a bit wedged in the spindle and everything went south, ignore those blown out threads)

New bad stud, both in the kit measure the same

Has anyone ever seen anything like this? Are the Shelby tie rods a totally different size from a GT? I am not sure if all these variations are machining issues or for different applications. I did make sure to inform them this was for a 2016 GT as they'd said they have internal codes for different stud sizes. As you can see all 3 that I have are different lengths.

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[NTXChris]

I'm thinking that the hex portion of the stud should not bottom out against the knuckle. If it does, there's a chance the taper isn't long enough and won't be fully seated in the knuckle. You want the taper to be fully engaged along its length, so what you call the 'bad' stud could actually be the good one. Have you shared photos with Cortex?

This is a photo from the Cortex website:

 

[xr4x4ti]

You want a gap like the picture in the last post.

 

[shogun32]

get some dykum or a very light smear of oil and coat it in flour. press the parts together by hand and if the taper seats it'll show when you pull them apart. The one that bottomed out on the nut is WRONG.

 

[offroadkarter]

I'm thinking that the hex portion of the stud should not bottom out against the knuckle. If it does, there's a chance the taper isn't long enough and won't be fully seated in the knuckle. You want the taper to be fully engaged along its length, so what you call the 'bad' stud could actually be the good one. Have you shared photos with Cortex?

This is a photo from the Cortex website:

Really? Shit they didn't say that to me at all and I've shown them every photo. I talked to two people at Cortex and have been in an email chat with them for a few weeks now, I even called tech support a few weeks ago when I first noticed this and the guy on the other line never said "oh yeah it should be that way". Hell the latest kit they sent the nuts don't even engage on the nylock because it isn't long enough with that gap.

That seems like an extremely weird design choice to leave a gap like that, are the steeda ones the same way?

 

[offroadkarter]

I sent a follow up email to Cortex explaining the feedback you guys provided. This is the first time I've ever touched a bumpsteer kit in my life and they included no instructions so I had just assumed the one that measured the same as the stock tie rod was actually correct. I guess I still had an issue, just not the way I expected.


I appreciate all the feedback

 

[shogun32]

also, if the lock nut doesn't engage AT LEAST 5 turns (7+ should be more like it) the threaded shank is also wrong/short. If the nut is a nyloc then the nylon bit needs to engage threads. Else it can't do it's job either. Granted the taper is a locking taper so in sooth once it's seated it's not gonna let go and the nut is there "just in case".

 

[offroadkarter]

also, if the lock nut doesn't engage AT LEAST 5 turns (7+ should be more like it) the threaded shank is also wrong/short. If the nut is a nyloc then the nylon bit needs to engage threads. Else it can't do it's job either. Granted the taper is a locking taper so in sooth once it's seated it's not gonna let go and the nut is there "just in case".

Oh trust me that part I at least know, nylock doesn't do much if the threads aren't in it.

I actually just heard back from the owner of Cortex Filip who confirmed everything said here, so I followed up asking why the stud/nut combo I was sent is apparently short and not reaching the nylock portion.

This has been an endeavor for sure, I'm planning on driving the car from PA to CA in a few weeks for Fabulous Fords Forever, so I'm trying to get it all done so I have time to get it aligned and do a few shakedown drives.

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