Harmonic balancer removal

[gqneon]

i have a harmonic balancer puller set (3-jaw) i used on a 2015 and a 2016 GT but its too thick to fit the spoke openings on a 2018 balancer.

What type / brand / or part number puller are you guys having luck with on the 2018 GT? I have a set for bolt type balancers ive used for ati balancers and the three jaw but it just wont go on. Working on trying some cheap gwneric pullers i have but if you the answer - hit me up here.

Thansk all

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[gqneon]

Heres how the new model year ones look - theyre a little tighter than prior yearsz. Any help is appreciated.

 

[ahl395]

Try a Chrysler-style balancer puller, Autozone rents them out for free.

 

[Jay-rod427]

Try a Chrysler-style balancer puller, Autozone rents them out for free.

This. If that doesn't work use a 3 jaw on the outside lip. It's strong enough. That's how I got mine off. Can't find the thread, but I think @beefcake posted about their modified tool just the other day for 18's. Might've been @LethalPerformance

 

[gqneon]

Yeah i talked to Tim at MPR and Hellhorse and Terry and they've all had to modify one to work so im definitely not alone. I broke a normal 3 jaw puller trying to get it off earlier and my dremel isnt man enough to grind down enough metal fast enough. I think theres an autozone somewhere nearby - i have a chrysler set but the one i have is too thick on the arms.

Ill look for the pictures if he posted some but yeah its a problem apparently. At least for me!

 

[gqneon]

Im going to try a Lisle 51450 puller from Oreillys tomorrow ($110) and if that doesnt work ive got an OTC 1023 and OTC 8052 button (the generic tool the 18 Ford shop manual calls for) on order to try next. After that i guess its a bench grinder and ingenuity or the Matco route. Ill post up what works when i figure it out!

 

[gqneon]

Lisle was a no-go (was missing parts and was just as thick as the original...)

Tried a 3 jaw with washers to make a button for the crank snout but it pierced the washers.

Drove a 5-hour roundtrip to Cincinnati and took a picture of what Finish Line performance modified to work and realized i wasnt going to be able to grind that out quite as far as needed on mine.

Bought a Matco master kit for $300 and will try that tomorrow - what a bastard this has been... hopefully tomorrows the end of this silly ordeal!

 

[gqneon]

First things first - the $300 MATCO tool also doesnt fit so i never got to try it. Save your money .

So the answer was an amalgamation of three different tools, a 21mm deep impact socket to act as a crank snout protector, the original crank washer between the socket opening and the puller bolt cranking against it. An 18" breaker bar, plenty of swearing and nervous angst about any component failing under load and shattering in my direction... and it finally started to move. No clue why it had to be different or so so difficult but be ready - its a ride.

This is only the third S550 damper ive had to pull off and it was not simple like years before it. Good luck!

I made a video but really its just a triumph shot and not too terribly useful. I was so greasy and pissed off by the time it came off i wasnt taking photos lol

 

[Kent Stacey]

I’m currently in the process of yanking off a 18 crank pulley as well and fell upon this thread. I am hoping a OTC 6667 is with some minor grinding on the backside of the prongs will work for me. I’ll attach a photo or two.

 

[Kent Stacey]

Well my attempt went very smooth. OTC 6667 puller with some minor grinding of the top side of the prongs to help them wiggle in did the trick. For the piece of mind I used a socket against the crank and the factory crank bolt washer between the bolt and the socket with the bolt pushing against It.

 

[gqneon]

Yeah you definitely took a ton off those puller arms. If I had a bench grinder I'd have done the same thing. Sadly I only had a dremel with a stone and I'd still be working on it if I had tried that way lol

Hopefully they'll make an update set of puller arms so we don't ha e to fabricate/weaken our own tools - but I'm not holding my breath!

Congrats!

 

[Notheryote]

First things first - the $300 MATCO tool also doesnt fit so i never got to try it. Save your money .

So the answer was an amalgamation of three different tools, a 21mm deep impact socket to act as a crank snout protector, the original crank washer between the socket opening and the puller bolt cranking against it. An 18" breaker bar, plenty of swearing and nervous angst about any component failing under load and shattering in my direction... and it finally started to move. No clue why it had to be different or so so difficult but be ready - its a ride.

This is only the third S550 damper ive had to pull off and it was not simple like years before it. Good luck!

I made a video but really its just a triumph shot and not too terribly useful. I was so greasy and pissed off by the time it came off i wasnt taking photos lol

Thank you! 3 jaw and 21mm deep socket worked perfect.

For anyone that comes across this thread, use this:

https://www.autozone.com/loan-a-too...n-reach-7-in-dia-reversible-puller/409615_0_0 <------- Free autozone loaner, you get money back when you return the tool
and a 21MM deep socket to protect the snout (middle bolt sits in deep end of socket which sits up against crank shaft)

Put the 3 jaws on the lip for the accessories belt which is closest to you (furthest from the engine) and tighten it up until they stay on. Then just slowly go at it with a 19mm wrench and you'll feel progressively less resistance and see the gap growing as it starts coming off.

 

[Grabublue]

Hey, how are you guys holding the balancer to torque the bolt? Manual says to use a strap wrench, didn't know if someone had a better way. Thanks

 

[ahl395]

Hey, how are you guys holding the balancer to torque the bolt? Manual says to use a strap wrench, didn't know if someone had a better way. Thanks

If it's a manual put it in gear.

If it's an auto have a helper hold a bolt on the torque converter. There is an access hole on the lower driver side of where the motor meets the trans. you'll want a 15mm deep socket if I remember correctly

 

[Notheryote]

Hey, how are you guys holding the balancer to torque the bolt? Manual says to use a strap wrench, didn't know if someone had a better way. Thanks

I tied a rope through the harmonic balancer holes and tied the other end around the k member opposite the direction I'm torquing it I think it was. Once you rotate it a quarter turn or so to remove the slack and the rope is taut, it'll stay in place perfectly and allow you to torque it.

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