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GT350 Tow Hook

Voodooo

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I just can't believe how many people put trust in two-four 8mm screws. A bumper crash beam is not made to be pulled on. You can believe all the vendors all you want, but the strength of a 8mm bolt is not enough to rely on. It's your car.
The zl1 hook looks pretty, and that's about all it's for. Looks. You show me a car that's getting pulled by that hook by Goober and not breaking or causing damage and I'll buy you lunch.
No way in hell would I use that to tow my car up my trailer either.
A yank on that one corner will tweak the subframe horn and cause a diamond pull to the chassis. I would take a center pullhook any day.
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Voodooo

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I'm not trying to cut up the product. It's not for me though
 

cweller

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Has anyone actually towed their car with the front or rear version of the ZL1 tow hooks covered here? I'd be interested in seeing / hearing if these are functional without any bending or flex, as that front bracket seems to not have much in the way of structural support.
I should have taken pics, but YES, I have. I've winched the car on and and off the trailer with no problem using the front ZL1 tow hook. Zero problems whatsoever.
 

Rimox51

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Does anyone have photo of the Watson tow bar install? I'd like to know where this come thru the grill.
 

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Voodooo

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Watsons bar is used on the GT4 and FR350S. I would post pics but for some reason lately the forum says I'm using the wrong format which is weird because I haven't changed anything except upgrade my iPhone to 10:2
 

THX 138

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No, I'll do the tow hook install myself. I plan on taking my car to the dealer for the recall work with the pan and splitter already off. I don't trust the dealer to reinstall the splitter correctly. When I get the car back from the dealer, I'll install the tow hook and then reinstall the pan and splitter myself.
Well, I installed the ZL1Addons Tow Hook today, since my dealer did the oil cooler lines recall yesterday and I had already removed the front splitter and belly pan. While the instructions are correct that this tow hook CAN be installed with just the front splitter and belly pan removed, let me just say that it was a COMPLETE pain in the a$$, and I would STRONGLY recommend removing the entire front fascia if you're inclined to install this piece yourself.

First, the instructions are worthless. I am not convinced that the ZL1Addons folks have actually done this install from underneath a GT350 (at least, not a Track Pack car.) Tips if you do decide (against my advice) to do this from underneath:

- Get some thin nylon rope to pull and hold the core support out of the way while you sandwich the tow hook receiver plate between the core support and the crash bar beam.

- Remove NOT ONLY the air temp sensor from its mount, but ALSO remove the small plastic wire holder from its mount about three inches up the wire pair (otherwise it will be in the way of the receiver plate).

- The large wire loom will also be in the way of the top of the receiver plate until you figure out the correct position the plate has to be in to be forced under it. This is what took me the longest to figure out, and the instructions don't even mention it. To be honest, I'm still not entirely sure how I managed to get the receiver plate in place behind the wire loom, although I was bleeding and cursing loudly at the time, so it may have been just pure adrenaline.

The tow hook itself: Seems fairly sturdy, but I don't really like how there is no positive stop for it; you just screw it in until the lip touches the honeycomb grille. If you keep going, you can see the grill deform inward, and it would eventually break if screwed in the tow hook too far. I will most likely cut off part of a threaded bolt and make a "set screw" out of it to create a positive stop for the tow hook and prevent damage to the honeycomb grille from screwing in the tow hook too far.
 

The Chairman

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I agree. The ZL1 guys must not like GT350 owners as their instructions are essentially useless -- down right confusing. But once you see that needs to be done, its not too difficult to install.
As to the temp sensor, just remove it from the mounting bracket, remove the mounting bracket (picture), and reinstall the sensor where the bracket itself initially was located.
I have the new Ford Performance rear tow hook to install when I get the time. Hope its a simple job.
IMG_0308.jpg
 

havasu486

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Well, I installed the ZL1Addons Tow Hook today, since my dealer did the oil cooler lines recall yesterday and I had already removed the front splitter and belly pan. While the instructions are correct that this tow hook CAN be installed with just the front splitter and belly pan removed, let me just say that it was a COMPLETE pain in the a$$, and I would STRONGLY recommend removing the entire front fascia if you're inclined to install this piece yourself.

First, the instructions are worthless. I am not convinced that the ZL1Addons folks have actually done this install from underneath a GT350 (at least, not a Track Pack car.) Tips if you do decide (against my advice) to do this from underneath:

- Get some thin nylon rope to pull and hold the core support out of the way while you sandwich the tow hook receiver plate between the core support and the crash bar beam.

- Remove NOT ONLY the air temp sensor from its mount, but ALSO remove the small plastic wire holder from its mount about three inches up the wire pair (otherwise it will be in the way of the receiver plate).

- The large wire loom will also be in the way of the top of the receiver plate until you figure out the correct position the plate has to be in to be forced under it. This is what took me the longest to figure out, and the instructions don't even mention it. To be honest, I'm still not entirely sure how I managed to get the receiver plate in place behind the wire loom, although I was bleeding and cursing loudly at the time, so it may have been just pure adrenaline.

The tow hook itself: Seems fairly sturdy, but I don't really like how there is no positive stop for it; you just screw it in until the lip touches the honeycomb grille. If you keep going, you can see the grill deform inward, and it would eventually break if screwed in the tow hook too far. I will most likely cut off part of a threaded bolt and make a "set screw" out of it to create a positive stop for the tow hook and prevent damage to the honeycomb grille from screwing in the tow hook too far.
I sent mine back for all the reasons stated above. I like how it is sold as a complete install with no modification required then the "instructions" state a reamer is included to widen out the hole in the grill. :frusty:
 

GT_Dave

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I sent mine back for all the reasons stated above. I like how it is sold as a complete install with no modification required then the "instructions" state a reamer is included to widen out the hole in the grill. :frusty:
I had no issues with the fit of the ZL1 hook, it fits perfectly without any modification. The drill is included in case any flash needs to be removed from the grill opening, I didn't have any interference or flash to remove. Not installing for that reason makes no sense, you can check fit the components before you start the installation.
 

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havasu486

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I had no issues with the fit of the ZL1 hook, it fits perfectly without any modification. The drill is included in case any flash needs to be removed from the grill opening, I didn't have any interference or flash to remove. Not installing for that reason makes no sense, you can check fit the components before you start the installation.
I added my comments to those posted above mine. Mine were hardly the reason, it was those posted before mine. Sure I would have kept it but someone needs to call them out on the no modification sales pitch when it simply is not true to there own admission.

I'm glad you are happy with the hook and here is to never needing it. :cheers:
 

kart125

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I just ordered the Ford Performance tow hook for GT350 from LMR. supposed to be in stock shipping today. Will report back on installation/fit. same hook as on the FP350S race car.

for the rear I'm considering the WR solution... still debating it.
 

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I just can't believe how many people put trust in two-four 8mm screws. A bumper crash beam is not made to be pulled on. You can believe all the vendors all you want, but the strength of a 8mm bolt is not enough to rely on. It's your car.
The zl1 hook looks pretty, and that's about all it's for. Looks. You show me a car that's getting pulled by that hook by Goober and not breaking or causing damage and I'll buy you lunch.
No way in hell would I use that to tow my car up my trailer either.
A yank on that one corner will tweak the subframe horn and cause a diamond pull to the chassis. I would take a center pullhook any day.
Proof load of an 8.8 class M8x1.0 bolt is 22700N. That comes out to about 5100Lbs. One bolt could lift the car off the ground with a healthy margin. 2-4 is more than enough for pulling onto a trailer. I do agree with your concern of the crash beam it is attached to when some random guy yanks on it to tow you out of a gravel pit however. How careful they will be when taking slack out of the cable will be a crap shoot.
 

THX 138

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I had no issues with the fit of the ZL1 hook, it fits perfectly without any modification. The drill is included in case any flash needs to be removed from the grill opening, I didn't have any interference or flash to remove. Not installing for that reason makes no sense, you can check fit the components before you start the installation.
There must be two different two hooks, then... Apparently which one they send you is a crap shoot. On the one I received, there is absolutely no way it will screw in all the way without hitting the honeycomb grille. See the picture below... The dark gray part of the tow hook impacts the grille before the shiny, threaded portion is fully screwed in. Is this what yours looks like, or is yours threaded farther up the shaft?

zl1-addons-mustang-towhook-3_511cb74d-3c48-4cc5-86ee-7217890ac7b6_compact.jpg


Edit: There are definitely two different versions... Here is the picture of the one on the LMR website, and it is definitely not the one I received. I'm going to call ZL1Addons and ask if I can swap mine out (that is, if the threading is identical... No way I'm going to remove the mounting receiver just to fix this issue).

lrs-04151101_d6a8e413.jpg
 
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havasu486

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I just can't believe how many people put trust in two-four 8mm screws. A bumper crash beam is not made to be pulled on. You can believe all the vendors all you want, but the strength of a 8mm bolt is not enough to rely on. It's your car.
The zl1 hook looks pretty, and that's about all it's for. Looks. You show me a car that's getting pulled by that hook by Goober and not breaking or causing damage and I'll buy you lunch.
No way in hell would I use that to tow my car up my trailer either.
A yank on that one corner will tweak the subframe horn and cause a diamond pull to the chassis. I would take a center pullhook any day.
The hook itself is quality, the mount location and instructions are the worst, thus I returned mine. Sold as requires no modifications yet comes with a reamer per the instructions. Looking for a better option.
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