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Glad I didn't wait for Ford Performance Packs

Sim.S550

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You should hear the crackle pop of a Solo Thunder exhaust. Hehehehe.
Awesome I have a solo street race system so I guess it will sound amazing with a lund tune then!
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2morrow

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There were a couple guys with manuals that initially had some issues. Most are reporting great results and some of those issues have ended with more driving time.
I have the kit sitting in my garage. Cant go lund here in Ca due to smog nazis.
Glad I waited for pp2, no problems and I know that my car will pass smog and will go through CARB.
Unfortunately us CA folks can't play the same game. I'm just glad that there's an option for us.

Extra points for keeping some of the warranty intact if that kinda thing worries you.
 

aham23

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i think it's hard to beat our lund tune with a jlt or pmas intake.

great results on those combos
hope so because i backed out of the group buy on PP2 and went this route.

:headbang: :ford: :headbang:
 

beefcake

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TexasRebel

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The PP2 seems to be excellent for auto cars.

From what I gathered from speaking with FP, they seemingly either did not test it (or test sufficiently) on a PP 3.73 car or did not test this in less-than-40* weather or did not test this in a wide enough variety of cars, presumably just a small test fleet. I have to believe they did... I mean... "performance package" seems to elicit "we should probably make the tune work for this car the absolute best" but maybe I'm biased. Certainly they did engine-out tuning since that's how they've dyno'd to get their numbers. There's ALWAYS tweaks, especially with human throttle input, that needs doing when the engine and tune is in the car. When I gave them my car's specs, they said they'd have to get a PP car and throw winter tires on it to test out the issues I was having. I would have thought they already had a few! Maybe I misunderstood of over-read their comments, but later someone got a message saying flat out that the tune was heavily researched and needed no changes.

The power the FP tune delivers is awesome. I can live, I guess, with the excessive "not warm yet" engine rev hang, which was never exhibited with my car in stock form. I cannot live with the random "engine is warm" rev hang and over-done jolts into engine braking - I need predictability over power on a road course. I can't be getting thrown off by the engine not going into engine braking at the same time always when I let off the gas (stock there is a slight delay but it happens same time, every time), instead taking some random amount of time to decide to do so, then jolting into engine braking. That could put me into the pebbles if I'm in the wrong spot at the wrong time.
I can't remember... did anyone ever ask which clutch spring you have?
 

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wildcatgoal

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I know where you're going with this. I have the Steeda one. I put back in the stock one to see if there was any difference. I've done my due diligence. The solution is a resolution to the tune. It's frankly ridiculous a clutch spring would have anything to do with it. My clutch comes all the way up. The no lift shift and any effects of it should only be activated if the gas pedal application is not released. I lift my foot off of the gas pedal by default. My rev hang before engine braking, etc., often happens before or after gear changes, unrelated to when I am operating the clutch. Just cruising along, let off the gas - should go into engine braking like it did before. I should not have to wait random periods of time before it decides to allow the action to occur. Again, I could adapt myself to this package if the car was, as it was STOCK with and without a Steeda clutch spring, predictable when it goes into engine-braking - let off, same duration of time, engine braking... every single time, same sort of mild abruptness. No hanging rev. No wait. No driveline shocking jolt.
 

TexasRebel

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could still be a bad top switch on the clutch.

The reason I asked: if you were running no spring (like some do) there's a chance the clutch pedal doesn't engage that top-of-travel switch. However, if the switch itself is bad the only real indicator would be a lack of cruise control.
 

wildcatgoal

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could still be a bad top switch on the clutch.

The reason I asked: if you were running no spring (like some do) there's a chance the clutch pedal doesn't engage that top-of-travel switch. However, if the switch itself is bad the only real indicator would be a lack of cruise control.
Cruise control works a treat.
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