Gen 5 Whipple Dyno

[fuelforfire87]

Good dyno run OP, Is your car auto or manual?

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[Angrey]

Unless the dyno is a complete heartbreaker or the tuner REALLY shorted it, those are pretty low for a 3.0 gen 5 with 3.625 pulley and E85.

Granted, long tubes make a difference, but you should still be seeing numbers appreciably higher. Again, maybe the tuner made it really fat and shorted the timing, but those are numbers typically seen on 93 with similar setup.

As far as the conditions, they'll move the needle a little, but that's why there is SAE and STD conversions, so that someone at 5,000 DA and high humidity can get a comparable output to how their car would perform at sea level with better conditions. It's not perfect, but shouldn't be a huge factor.

 

[TX-Ripper]

I wonder how much of a difference headers make?

I doubt more then 10hp on the OPs car

 

[atl]

Don’t let people bring you down it’s all about how you feel about the car. If it makes those numbers and drives perfect enjoy it. Don’t push it for 50hp and not be able to enjoy it.

Honestly not hurt by it. I’m pretty convinced it’s outputting more. Considering the dyno operator couldn’t show me the RPM curve either, I’m just putting it off to him not knowing. That and in my tune I’m seeing about 20.3 degrees of timing when I believe most people see 22. Which would make up the 30 horsepower you’d normally see. I could be mistaken though.

 

[atl]

Good dyno run OP, Is your car auto or manual?

The car is an auto.

 

[atl]

Agree it does seem a bit low. My Gen 5 did 708/530 SAE on a dyno jet with the out of the box stage 2 kit running the whipple tune. Stock headers, stock cats with just a cat-back and the 3.875 pulley included in the kit. My car is a manual. Is yours auto or manual?

As mentioned, take it to the track and see what the MPH says. Dynos can be goofy and different dynos on different days can produce all sorts of results. I doubt the tires are really a factor. If they were a dedicated drag tire like a bias-ply slick, they would soak up some power. A street drag radial is probably no different from a regular street radial on a dyno.

This is something I’ve thought about too. My torque numbers are pretty damn consistent with a car that makes high 7’s. For instance your car being 708/530. My car on E is 737/612. Either my tune isn’t commanding the full timing that could be pushed to be conservative, or the dyno is off.

 

[TX-Ripper]

This is something I’ve thought about too. My torque numbers are pretty damn consistent with a car that makes high 7’s. For instance your car being 708/530. My car on E is 737/612. Either my tune isn’t commanding the full timing that could be pushed to be conservative, or the dyno is off.

Have you reached out to lund to ask?

 

[atl]

Have you reached out to lund to ask?

I haven’t asked about timing yet. Didn’t even think about it really until you guys asked. I did ask about the drag radials affecting it, and they said it was unlikely. Only other thing I can think of is the dyno. Regardless I’ll be doing the 3.3 pulley and dynoing at another shop. If I see a crazy jump, I’ll know a good amount of it came from the other shops dyno reading lower.

 

[TX-Ripper]

1 degree of timing can be 20hp...

 

[atl]

1 degree of timing can be 20hp...

Very true. I saw 20.3 and I think I remember others mentioning they were closer to 22.

 

[TX-Ripper]

Very true. I saw 20.3 and I think I remember others mentioning they were closer to 22.

That could be 40hp right there.

Talk to lund and ask

 

[atl]

That could be 40hp right there.

Talk to lund and ask

Will do.

 

[Angrey]

Honestly not hurt by it. I’m pretty convinced it’s outputting more. Considering the dyno operator couldn’t show me the RPM curve either, I’m just putting it off to him not knowing. That and in my tune I’m seeing about 20.3 degrees of timing when I believe most people see 22. Which would make up the 30 horsepower you’d normally see. I could be mistaken though.

They could have pulled timing if you were seeing legit or false knock. They generally run it out until they start seeing a problem, then back it off. If you're getting any sort of false knock, they may have cut it short (meaning with verified E85 you shouldn't be seeing knock, but if the sensors are showing it, something is bugging them).

In any case, with that size pulley and E85, I would think it would make more. Again, the other possibility is that the dyno is a heartbreaker and just isn't calibrated properly.

 

[Whitedevil95]

Dynos can vary by a lot. Take it to the track and see how it runs.

 

[atl]

They could have pulled timing if you were seeing legit or false knock. They generally run it out until they start seeing a problem, then back it off. If you're getting any sort of false knock, they may have cut it short (meaning with verified E85 you shouldn't be seeing knock, but if the sensors are showing it, something is bugging them).

In any case, with that size pulley and E85, I would think it would make more. Again, the other possibility is that the dyno is a heartbreaker and just isn't calibrated properly.

E85 is good. I do have issues with false knock but they believe that’s from a buzzy blower and it’s only part throttle. Up top, nothing on the knock sensors. Only added timing up to a certain point. Seems like it’s capped around 20. Talking to my tuner right now.

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