Gen 2 5.0 limits

[dgood]

So i have a 2015 gt gen 5 whipple lund tune im wanting to make 900-1000 do you guys recommend buying a shortblock (if so from who) or buying a rotating assembly and do it OR is it even worth it

do the heads need work as well ive read valves are a good idea but is that about it?

im sure this has been answered before couldn’t find exactly what im looking for

the engine currently has the typical stuff opg, cs, timing chains, tensioners, mmr plate, arp cam bolts, kinetic crank stud

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[ice445]

If you wanna make 1000 for more than a few thousand miles then yeah, get a built shortblock. The rings and pistons aren't normally very happy at those kind of sustained power levels. If you can afford to get the heads worked while they're off then go for it, but it's not completely necessary unless you're vastly increasing rev limit over stock.

 

[WildHorse]

 

[dgood]

If you wanna make 1000 for more than a few thousand miles then yeah, get a built shortblock. The rings and pistons aren't normally very happy at those kind of sustained power levels. If you can afford to get the heads worked while they're off then go for it, but it's not completely necessary unless you're vastly increasing rev limit over stock.

Thanks

 

[Linkster1666]

Wanting Race Engine Performance requires Race Engine Parts.

Spend accordingly.

 

[stang17]

I can say I'm fairley experienced in this subject matter being that I'm on my 3rd motor in less than 24k miles on the odometer, whipple from dealer since day 1.

Stock motor, stock whipple tune, octane booster every fill up to make 96+ octane, and 3.625 pulley ran strong at 786 whp (dynapack). Trapped in the mid 130s at over 4120 lbs.

Crankshaft snapped out of nowhere at 12k miles while downshifting from 6th to 5th getting off highway exit at casual speed taking out entire motor.


Replaced with aluminator, MFP crank support, upgraded fuel system, PBD tuned , trapped 138+mph. Same 96 octane fueling but with 3.5 pulley. Dynoed 819 whp(dynojet) and then year later at 7800 miles (under 20k odo) made 730ish whp on same dyno, fuel, and tune.

Did compression test /leakdown and 5 out of 8 cylinders bad. Had undetected detonation from desensitized knock sensors that lead to various levels of headgasket lift and raised ringlands.

Had that aluminator upgraded by Holbrook Racing Engines with better pistons, upgraded rings gapped for boost, rod bearings , wrist pins, ARP, studs, cometic gaskets, CS, etc etc...basically everything other than sleeves and porting the heads.

I was told by Holbrook that without sleeves, to stay in the 800ish or less whp range to expect any kind of longevity out of the motor.

I now live on a conservative 630 whp 93 octane tune and an e85 tune that makes just shy of 800 whp. Car is a little bit heavier as no longer running drag pack or 1 piece DS and currently traps in the 136 mph range.

If aiming for 800+ , sleeves, rings gapped for boost, head studs, rods/pistons will be needed.

 

[stannypack]

I can say I'm fairley experienced in this subject matter being that I'm on my 3rd motor in less than 24k miles on the odometer, whipple from dealer since day 1.

Stock motor, stock whipple tune, octane booster every fill up to make 96+ octane, and 3.625 pulley ran strong at 786 whp (dynapack). Trapped in the mid 130s at over 4120 lbs.

Crankshaft snapped out of nowhere at 12k miles while downshifting from 6th to 5th getting off highway exit at casual speed taking out entire motor.


Replaced with aluminator, MFP crank support, upgraded fuel system, PBD tuned , trapped 138+mph. Same 96 octane fueling but with 3.5 pulley. Dynoed 819 whp(dynojet) and then year later at 7800 miles (under 20k odo) made 730ish whp on same dyno, fuel, and tune.

Did compression test /leakdown and 5 out of 8 cylinders bad. Had undetected detonation from desensitized knock sensors that lead to various levels of headgasket lift and raised ringlands.

Had that aluminator upgraded by Holbrook Racing Engines with better pistons, upgraded rings gapped for boost, rod bearings , wrist pins, ARP, studs, cometic gaskets, CS, etc etc...basically everything other than sleeves and porting the heads.

I was told by Holbrook that without sleeves, to stay in the 800ish or less whp range to expect any kind of longevity out of the motor.

I now live on a conservative 630 whp 93 octane tune and an e85 tune that makes just shy of 800 whp. Car is a little bit heavier as no longer running drag pack or 1 piece DS and currently traps in the 136 mph range.

If aiming for 800+ , sleeves, rings gapped for boost, head studs, rods/pistons will be needed.

When you did octane booster on the stock tune/stock engine, does the Whipple tune automatically adjust for more octane i.e. more power or does it stay as a 93 tune but with more safety

 

[stang17]

If you go into flare software , you can turn off the safeties and it will add timing if the octane is there and doesn't see knock.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/before-you-dyno-a-whipple-tune-car.103976/

 

[stannypack]

If you go into flare software , you can turn off the safeties and it will add timing if the octane is there and doesn't see knock.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/before-you-dyno-a-whipple-tune-car.103976/

Oh I had no idea you could alter the whipple stock tune. Thought it'd locked due to the carb legal emissions stuff

 

[Balr14]

You are looking for over 3 hp per cubic inch with the loses imposed by the supercharger. That will be difficult to accomplish. I'd be looking for more cubic inches and turbochargers. A 502 crate engine is where I'd start.

If you actually get to that power level, you are going to need significant drivetrain upgrades as well.

 

[SheepDog]

So i have a 2015 gt gen 5 whipple lund tune im wanting to make 900-1000 do you guys recommend buying a shortblock (if so from who) or buying a rotating assembly and do it OR is it even worth it

do the heads need work as well ive read valves are a good idea but is that about it?

im sure this has been answered before couldn’t find exactly what im looking for

the engine currently has the typical stuff opg, cs, timing chains, tensioners, mmr plate, arp cam bolts, kinetic crank stud

I don't think people put enough emphasis on using E85 to achieve these kind of power numbers. Pump gas + octane booster is not as good as pump E. Not only for octane, but the cooling factor as well. I wouldn't go anywhere near 800 WHP on Pump gas + booster

 

[Balr14]

I don't think people put enough emphasis on using E85 to achieve these kind of power numbers. Pump gas + octane booster is not as good as pump E. Not only for octane, but the cooling factor as well. I wouldn't go anywhere near 800 WHP on Pump gas + booster

An excellent point.

 

[dgood]

I don't think people put enough emphasis on using E85 to achieve these kind of power numbers. Pump gas + octane booster is not as good as pump E. Not only for octane, but the cooling factor as well. I wouldn't go anywhere near 800 WHP on Pump gas + booster

Yes! I eventually i will be swapping to e85 with most likely a fore system.

after reading this i will probably buy a shortblock and keep around 800 whp because i dont really want to go through 3 engines pushing over 1k

 

[Jstang23]

Yes! I eventually i will be swapping to e85 with most likely a fore system.

after reading this i will probably buy a shortblock and keep around 800 whp because i dont really want to go through 3 engines pushing over 1k

Also you have to keep in mind where are you going to use the 1000 hp! Not to mention how hard it is to put 1000 hp to the street and the stress it creates on the rest of your car. I totally get wanting 1000 hp but from experience I'd pick an 800 hp car who can put it to the ground time after time rather than a 1000 hp car that can maybe put the power down half the time! Anyways that's an awesome build! I want to make mine FI one day!

 

[stang17]

If you daily the car and need tires that can handle rain well at highway speeds, 630-650 whp is about the most useful power you can put down without a dedicated drag radial.

When I log spark/torque source with HP tuners, I'll see traction control engaging all the way up to 93 mph on my ethanol tune. In fact on the street, my 93 octane 630 whp tune gets to 100 mph quicker than my 800 hp ethanol tune as it just hooks and goes without having traction control keep trying to cut spark or close throttle.

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