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G-Loc Brakes

tosha

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Jstang23

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Hey all!

Some more updates along the G-Loc brakes!

I decided that sounding like a freight train coming to a stop every time I hit the brakes was too much for me to deal with, so I got the GS-1 compounds to use in between track days!

The install was super easy, only had to touch 4 bolts (the rear sliding pin 14mm bolts). Torqued them to 24 ft/lbs and put a tiny bit of anti seize on them!

The GS-1 compound does NOT need any bedding in procedure, in fact they state you can glaze them if you try. Just normal street driving for a few 100 miles and you're good to go. They feel fantastic so far and absolutely no noise! Will keep you all updated!

However, when I removed my R10 compounds off the front I notice some cracks around the backing plate and where the compound meet. It looks like the pad compound had started delaminate from the backing plate. @Optimum Performance any thoughts on this? One of my race engineers said he heard of some cases where this happened. I will try to upload a picture later, but seems sketchy to put back on until I know for certain they are safe. Still have tons of life left.

Otherwise still very happy with the performance of the pads and the ease of changing them on the same rotor!

Thanks!
 

Optimum Performance

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Hey all!

Some more updates along the G-Loc brakes!

I decided that sounding like a freight train coming to a stop every time I hit the brakes was too much for me to deal with, so I got the GS-1 compounds to use in between track days!

The install was super easy, only had to touch 4 bolts (the rear sliding pin 14mm bolts). Torqued them to 24 ft/lbs and put a tiny bit of anti seize on them!

The GS-1 compound does NOT need any bedding in procedure, in fact they state you can glaze them if you try. Just normal street driving for a few 100 miles and you're good to go. They feel fantastic so far and absolutely no noise! Will keep you all updated!

However, when I removed my R10 compounds off the front I notice some cracks around the backing plate and where the compound meet. It looks like the pad compound had started delaminate from the backing plate. @Optimum Performance any thoughts on this? One of my race engineers said he heard of some cases where this happened. I will try to upload a picture later, but seems sketchy to put back on until I know for certain they are safe. Still have tons of life left.

Otherwise still very happy with the performance of the pads and the ease of changing them on the same rotor!

Thanks!
Pictures help, but if you put the backing plates on a flat surface and they are flat, it's just expansion and contraction. Curbing and clearance issues can bend a backing plate via the brake pedal. Depending on the pads, the majority are molded since late 2023. They use a patented backing plate that basically eliminates compound separation due to the way they are made.
 
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Jstang23

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Pictures help, but if you put the backing plates on a flat surface and they are flat, it's just expansion and contraction. Curbing and clearance issues can bend a backing plate via the brake pedal. Depending on the pads, the majority are molded since late 2023. They use a patented backing plate that basically eliminates compound separation due to the way they are made.
Ok cool! That does make sense. I was never near the 1400 or so degree max temperature for these so I was having a hard time believing that the compounds had exceeded their max temperature rating.

I will try to get these pictures uploaded as soon as I get back from work! Thanks all!
 

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Jstang23

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@Optimum Performance and @*****

I took these pads to my race shop and the lead tech said he would not put the pads back on the car, but also because one of the backing plates was bent. Only one pad was bent, also odd that it didn't bend in pairs. He said this was rather shocking this happended to the R10s on my 500 tread ware tires. He recommended I step up to the R16 compound. Rather upsetting as I still have tons of life left on the pad face which looks great, no signs of glazing.

IMG_7329 Large.jpeg
IMG_7328 Large.jpeg
IMG_7327 Large.jpeg
 

Optimum Performance

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I took these pads to my race shop and the lead tech said he would not put the pads back on the car, but also because one of the backing plates was bent. Only one pad was bent, also odd that it didn't bend in pairs. He said this was rather shocking this happended to the R10s on my 500 tread ware tires. He recommended I step up to the R16 compound. Rather upsetting as I still have tons of life left on the pad face which looks great, no signs of glazing.

IMG_7329 Large.jpeg
IMG_7328 Large.jpeg
IMG_7327 Large.webp
I see zero wrong with those pads.
 

Aless_andro00

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I think using R-10 pads in the front, and R-8 pads in the rear is a great setup for balanced braking on the track. This combo gives good control and a slight front bias, which is common for performance driving. The R-10 pads have more grip, making them better for the heavier braking needed at the front.
 
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Jstang23

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I see zero wrong with those pads.
The backing plate of one of them is bent to where it wobbles significantly on a flat surface. This set won't be going back on the car. Maybe there was a quality control issue with the one pad as none of the others were bent in any way.

I agree with the pad compound, nothing is wrong. But the cracking along the edge where it meets the backing plate can be pulled on and made larger. The pictures unfortunately do not do the crack justice. I just have never seen a track pad do that and not come out glazed to hell and back or shredded.

My plan is to email G-loc and see if I can get some sort of discount for an R12 or R16 pad.

Thank you! :like:
 
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Jstang23

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I think using R-10 pads in the front, and R-8 pads in the rear is a great setup for balanced braking on the track. This combo gives good control and a slight front bias, which is common for performance driving. The R-10 pads have more grip, making them better for the heavier braking needed at the front.
Yes I did love this pad set up which is what I ran! However I obviously reached the maximum temperature or had a bad pad because I ended up bending the quarter inch steel backing plate. I am probably going to move to a R12/R10 or a R16/R12 combo for the future.
 

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Jstang23

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That's the plan! Moving to R16/R12!
 

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I decided that sounding like a freight train coming to a stop every time I hit the brakes was too much for me to deal with, so I got the GS-1 compounds to use in between track days!
R10/R8 was still that noisy on the street?

Kinda sounds like after exceeding the stock pads it's best to just jump to R12 in the front at a minimum.

Do you have the big brake cooling deflectors like Vorshlag's or GTP's?

Does R16 need to be warmed up or will they still stop alright when cold? Thinking of a 40min drive to the track.
 
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Jstang23

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R10/R8 was still that noisy on the street?

Kinda sounds like after exceeding the stock pads it's best to just jump to R12 in the front at a minimum.

Do you have the big brake cooling deflectors like Vorshlag's or GTP's?

Does R16 need to be warmed up or will they still stop alright when cold? Thinking of a 40min drive to the track.
Yes the R10/R8 combo was still very noisy for me. They weren't always noisy but as they warmed up they got noisier, then once they reached optimum temps they were quiet. However, you'll never reach that on a street.

I have engineered my own brake deflectors, but the design works the same as Vorshlags.

I guess I underestimated how fast I could be on the tires I run, so yes at a minimum I would go with the R12s. But if you still want to daily them I would not go any higher than R10. I will be purchasing R16s for peace of mind.
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