G-Loc Brakes

[Jstang23]

Hey all! So I'm looking at getting some G-Loc track pads and the daily GS-1 Pads. I am considering this change as someone told me their compounds are compatible with each other on the same rotor. Making the change from track pads to street pads more streamlined. Can anyone confirm this? Also I was looking at R-10s of front and R-8s for the rear. I still track with Michelin pilot sport 4s so I don't want more brake that tire traction. Anyone have good experience with that combination? Thanks!

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[tosha]

Yes gloc pads are compatible across the spectrum

 

[Competition Orange]

Yes, you can, but please up your temp range. The 10/8 isn't enough pad if you're fast at all.

These are extremely heavy cars, and if you are or get fast, you'll quickly regret that combo.

I'd go more towards their top end of heat/mu. Good luck.

 

[Optimum Performance]

Compound choice depends on a lot of things. Entering T1 at Daytona on a 340TW with an R10 my data recorded 1.46g braking. I have proper ducted brake cooling. Are you going for an HPDE trophy or trying to be a better driver?

If you plan on running a street pad for the street and a track pad for the track I would go to an R12/10 not knowing the tracks and experience level, if you are coming off of OE pads, you'll likely burn down a high temperature pad because you will not brake correctly.

Tires make the car stop, brake pads absorb thermal energy. Running an aggressive pad on a street tire will result in less than stellar performance.

We have had several Customers make the mistake of trying to run an overly aggressive pad and they always go back down to where they should have started.

 

[tosha]

Compound choice depends on a lot of things. Entering T1 at Daytona on a 340TW with an R10 my data recorded 1.46g braking. I have proper ducted brake cooling. Are you going for an HPDE trophy or trying to be a better driver?

If you plan on running a street pad for the street and a track pad for the track I would go to an R12/10 not knowing the tracks and experience level, if you are coming off of OE pads, you'll likely burn down a high temperature pad because you will not brake correctly.

Tires make the car stop, brake pads absorb thermal energy. Running an aggressive pad on a street tire will result in less than stellar performance.

We have had several Customers make the mistake of trying to run an overly aggressive pad and they always go back down to where they should have started.

This ^^
I have spent a year driving on R10/R8 and Hankook RS4 in intermediate group and never had a single brake fade issue with these pads. In fact, I drove them on the street too and aside from some noise they were fine in warm weather. Great long lasting pads for learning.

I have since upgraded to R12 and more sticky tires, but I wouldn't have any concerns to drive a car with R10 again. R12 on the street can be scary when not warmed up

If I was building a car for competition use, pads choice would be different. But then, everything else would be different too.

 

[Jstang23]

Compound choice depends on a lot of things. Entering T1 at Daytona on a 340TW with an R10 my data recorded 1.46g braking. I have proper ducted brake cooling. Are you going for an HPDE trophy or trying to be a better driver?

If you plan on running a street pad for the street and a track pad for the track I would go to an R12/10 not knowing the tracks and experience level, if you are coming off of OE pads, you'll likely burn down a high temperature pad because you will not brake correctly.

Tires make the car stop, brake pads absorb thermal energy. Running an aggressive pad on a street tire will result in less than stellar performance.

We have had several Customers make the mistake of trying to run an overly aggressive pad and they always go back down to where they should have started.

This ^^
I have spent a year driving on R10/R8 and Hankook RS4 in intermediate group and never had a single brake fade issue with these pads. In fact, I drove them on the street too and aside from some noise they were fine in warm weather. Great long lasting pads for learning.

I have since upgraded to R12 and more sticky tires, but I wouldn't have any concerns to drive a car with R10 again. R12 on the street can be scary when not warmed up

If I was building a car for competition use, pads choice would be different. But then, everything else would be different too.

Thanks y'all! I've actually been racing for about 7 years now. I started spec miata and then went up to F1600. The mustang is my daily car that I'm just running HPDE's to get my addiction satisfied. I will probably end up going with the R10/R8 as I will more than likely be driving to the tracks with those pads installed for the weekend and definitely not competing for any trophies. But I'm hoping to set some good lap times

 

[tosha]

Thanks y'all! I've actually been racing for about 7 years now. I started spec miata and then went up to F1600. The mustang is my daily car that I'm just running HPDE's to get my addiction satisfied. I will probably end up going with the R10/R8 as I will more than likely be driving to the tracks with those pads installed for the weekend and definitely not competing for any trophies. But I'm hoping to set some good lap times

Imo, with your experience get R12/R10 then. They are still streetable, just keep them warmed up.

 

[Jstang23]

Imo, with your experience get R12/R10 then. They are still streetable, just keep them warmed up.

Do you think I could get away with the R10/R8 combo on the street? I'm fine with noise and dust but unless I'm driving it to a track this car doesn't get driven far enough to warm the brakes up nicely. I don't want to have to need my brakes and then not have any. Any less work to track prep is great as I don't have a lift in my garage yet. Otherwise I'll get the R12/R10 combo and the GS-1 and just switch them out.

 

[tosha]

Do you think I could get away with the R10/R8 combo on the street? I'm fine with noise and dust but unless I'm driving it to a track this car doesn't get driven far enough to warm the brakes up nicely. I don't want to have to need my brakes and then not have any. Any less work to track prep is great as I don't have a lift in my garage yet. Otherwise I'll get the R12/R10 combo and the GS-1 and just switch them out.

I drove R10/R8 on the street in warm weather for about 10k km with no issues. Not something I would recommend to everyone, but I do drive R12 on street as well. It's not like it doesn't have any brakes at all, but in case of emergency braking, it goes from very little to ABS engaged without much modulation in between. Had a spooky moment with them, so I give them a bit of a warmap whenever I start driving.

 

[NightmareMoon]

R12/R10 here, and I’ve recently switched from the GS1 ro the R6 because I do autocross more than I daily drive these days. R6 is very grabby, the GS1 is more civilized.

you can certainly run a few errands on the R12, they’re just dusty as heck. I didnt really notice much of a cold braking issue with them.

I have also seen some of my highest braking G forces on 340 TW MP4S (as opposed to the 200TW tires I usually track on). Its not that strange to see street tires optimized for great braking (versus all round handling).

 

[Jstang23]

I drove R10/R8 on the street in warm weather for about 10k km with no issues. Not something I would recommend to everyone, but I do drive R12 on street as well. It's not like it doesn't have any brakes at all, but in case of emergency braking, it goes from very little to ABS engaged without much modulation in between. Had a spooky moment with them, so I give them a bit of a warmap whenever I start driving.

Was that spooky moment with the R12 or with the R10?

 

[tosha]

Was that spooky moment with the R12 or with the R10?

On R12. It was one of those cases of last moment braking on a yellow light. I hit the brakes trying to do quick stop, got some stopping force but pressing the brake pedal harder didn't do much until brakes locked out and abs kicked in, and I blew through the stop line. was on a completely dry road on a warm day at 40 mph. I blame the pads

To @NightmareMoon 's point, otherwise they were fine and normal stopping worked as expected.

 

[Jstang23]

On R12. It was one of those cases of last moment braking on a yellow light. I hit the brakes trying to do quick stop, got some stopping force but pressing the brake pedal harder didn't do much until brakes locked out and abs kicked in, and I blew through the stop line. was on a completely dry road on a warm day at 40 mph. I blame the pads

To @NightmareMoon 's point, otherwise they were fine and normal stopping worked as expected.

Gotcha Keeping things interesting though, lol! I will buy the R10/R8 combo and just keep them on the car. Worst case I will keep the hawk pads and rotors as back up if I scare myself real good too! Thanks for all your advice!

 

[NightmareMoon]

There's not really a cost advantage to NOT buying two sets, since you'll burn up all the pads you buy eventually. They're a wear item.

Its just that initial cost kinda hurts. Anyway no problem starting trying to daily the track pads, you can always buy the GS1 down the road if you don't love the R10s on the street.

 

[tosha]

There's not really a cost advantage to NOT buying two sets, since you'll burn up all the pads you buy eventually. They're a wear item.

Its just that initial cost kinda hurts. Anyway no problem starting trying to daily the track pads, you can always buy the GS1 down the road if you don't love the R10s on the street.

Absolutely, it's same as having 2 sets of wheels and tires for street and track. They all will get worn out eventually.

I'm just too lazy to swap pads all the time for a car that gets driven 6k miles a year.

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