Full Detail

[saesteve416]

Post Prep:
Blacklight - this is a glaze type product to add shine/gloss

Seal (protect):
JetSeal - This seals in all the work you just did with protection that lasts longer than wax

Final finish (These steps make the water bead and the eyes pop :eyebulge :
Wax
Hybrid v7

Any specific reason to do Blacklight befor Jetseal? I started my process and just found your post. I was doing Jetseal before Black Light.

Also I was removing a spot from what the dealer did and applied too much pressure with cutting pad. Now I have a small 6" circle on the hood where I have some swirling. Any thoughts on trying to remove it? I'm wondering if it will even be noticeable after applying black light and black wax. :shrug:

Not sure if I have the skills to remove the swirls and afraid I may make it worse at this point.

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[Chameleon]

Going to give that waffle weave a try.

 

[slythetove]

Any specific reason to do Blacklight befor Jetseal? I started my process and just found your post. I was doing Jetseal before Black Light.

Also I was removing a spot from what the dealer did and applied too much pressure with cutting pad. Now I have a small 6" circle on the hood where I have some swirling. Any thoughts on trying to remove it? I'm wondering if it will even be noticeable after applying black light and black wax. :shrug:

Not sure if I have the skills to remove the swirls and afraid I may make it worse at this point.

Blacklight first:

The reason you do this (and other glaze type stuff) first is because they have cleaners/fillers/even sometimes very fine abrasives. So, technically this could be used to perform very minor correction. Using it over something else may actually partially remove the something else.

http://www.chemicalguys.com/Black_Light_Hybrid_Radiant_Finish_16_oz_p/gap_619_16.htm

Swirls:

When you say cutting pad it makes me worry - ALWAYS use the lightest pad and product possible. I can't imagine the kind of damage that requires a cutting pad would have been on your new car. When you say too much pressure it makes me worry too. Are you using a rotary buffer? If you are, then you shouldn't - they take a lot of skill. Use a dual action (DA) polisher like a Porter Cable, never put pressure on the machine, and always keep some motion in your work.

If you have introduced minor swirling you should use as light a compound as possible on a very mild pad - not black but just north of black. I like the Menzerna products for paint correction and I would start with their final polish or equivalent "last step" polish. No cutting pad!

Take your time and let the product do the work.

Then when satisfied: Blacklight, JetSeal, Wax of choice, v7

Let me know if I can answer any other questions - I'm happy to help.

 

[saesteve416]

Blacklight first:

The reason you do this (and other glaze type stuff) first is because they have cleaners/fillers/even sometimes very fine abrasives. So, technically this could be used to perform very minor correction. Using it over something else may actually partially remove the something else.

http://www.chemicalguys.com/Black_Light_Hybrid_Radiant_Finish_16_oz_p/gap_619_16.htm

Swirls:

When you say cutting pad it makes me worry - ALWAYS use the lightest pad and product possible. I can't imagine the kind of damage that requires a cutting pad would have been on your new car. When you say too much pressure it makes me worry too. Are you using a rotary buffer? If you are, then you shouldn't - they take a lot of skill. Use a dual action (DA) polisher like a Porter Cable, never put pressure on the machine, and always keep some motion in your work.

If you have introduced minor swirling you should use as light a compound as possible on a very mild pad - not black but just north of black. I like the Menzerna products for paint correction and I would start with their final polish or equivalent "last step" polish. No cutting pad!

Take your time and let the product do the work.

Then when satisfied: Blacklight, JetSeal, Wax of choice, v7

Let me know if I can answer any other questions - I'm happy to help.

It was the orange hand held pad that Chemical Guys sells. Should I remove the jet seal in some way and start over? Then start with Black Light and then Seal?

 

[slythetove]

Should I remove the jet seal in some way and start over? Then start with Black Light and then Seal?

This is not so important as correcting the swirls to your satisfaction in my opinion. Then you can Blacklight and JetSeal over it.

Without seeing the swirls, just imagining what you are describing, I would say there are two ways you could go here. Keep in mind the proper correction (1) requires stuff you may not have or want to purchase at this time, so I'm offering a possible alternative (2). I can't be absolutely certain number 2 will do the trick completely, but it won't make things worse so it could be worth a shot if you don't want to do the full monty.

1) Full Proper Correction

• Porter cable or similar dual action orbital polisher

• Use a finishing pad blue or black even (be sure to look for "finishing" or ultra light polishing)

• Use a product like Menzerna final polish (or something similar) http://www.autopia-carcare.com/menzerna-po85rd-final-polish.html - take your time and let the product do the work

• Blacklight by hand as a glaze

• JetSeal

• Wax whole car

• v7 for final pass

2) Short version - It may not fully correct, but it won't make it any worse

• Use Blacklight as a correction step product (note: I have not tried this)

• Use a foam applicator and work it like a polish over the area. Soft pressure not too much but some.

• Repeat if you are seeing improvement until satisfaction

• Jetseal

• Wax whole car

• v7 for pop

That would be my take not seeing it.

Remember, no cutting pads in the future unless you are doing a significant correction - always use the least abrasive product that will get the job done. If you do use something more aggressive like that remember you will have to follow it up with less and less aggressive stuff to remove the marring left by the initial aggressive correction.

 

[saesteve416]

I was hoping something like #2 might work. Or at least you would say it can't make it worse. I'll try the black light with the small round applicator pads that are soft.



This is it. The large swirl about 6" across on the middle left. The mark towards the right is just dust. It's very subtle and took about 4-5 shots before I even captured it.

 

[Jeeden]

Is everyone using light duty or medium duty clay bars on their new cars?

 

[saesteve416]

Sly, Thank you, thank you for the advice.

Obviously doing it a few times on my "old" cars didn't teach me enough to touch a brand new one. But I did a few times with the black light and things were looking much better. After the Black wax it's hardly noticeable. To a level that I think no one will notice except me. Having a pro fix it eventually is probably in my future, but I'm betting after 6-12 months there will be other things from normal driving that show up on the car.

 

[slythetove]

I was hoping something like #2 might work. Or at least you would say it can't make it worse. I'll try the black light with the small round applicator pads that are soft.

The large swirl about 6" across on the middle left. The mark towards the right is just dust. It's very subtle and took about 4-5 shots before I even captured it.

Yeah using Blacklight as a polish with a foam applicator - no way it would make that worse. You're safe to try it and hopefully it helps!

EDIT: Saw you tried it and had some success. That's great news! It can always be corrected further later as well as it's just clear coat marring.

 

[Tamadrummer88]

Thanks for the kind words, and I'm happy to help any way I can. Long post incoming....

One thing I did was ordered their kit for black cars - the wax is supposedly for black / dark cars and it includes their Blacklight product. This saved a bit of money and added a couple applicators and microfibers which I needed anyway. I actually ordered from Amazon because I'm a Prime member just fyi.

Clay Bar - I used Mother's California Gold kit (can get locally about anywhere)
http://www.mothers.com/02_products/07240.html#&slider1=3

Kit for black cars (* Note I haven't tried the black wax on any other color car)
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Black_Paint_Maintenance_Kit_6_Items_p/hol_201.htm
This gave me the Blacklight and the Black luminous glow wax I used

Hybrid v7
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Hybrid_V7_Sealant_Quick_Detailer_16_oz_p/wac_808_16.htm

JetSeal
http://www.chemicalguys.com/JetSeal_16_oz_p/wac_118_16.htm

Bug + Tar Wash (DO NOT USE REGULARLY - this is ONLY for a first/strip wash as it will remove wax)
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Bug_Tar_Heavy_Duty_Car_Wash_16_oz_p/cws_104_16.htm

Iron X (I didn't find too much iron in mine but if you want to go fully Monty do this otherwise this is the only step I would omit)
Search CarPro Iron X Lemon Scent on Amazon

Chenille Microfiber Wash Mitt
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Chenille_Microfiber_Scratch_Free_Wash_Mitt_p/mic_493.htm

Waffle Weave Drying Towel
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Absorber_Waffle_Weave_Drying_Microfiber_Tower_p/mic_703_01.htm

3 extra microfiber towels
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Monster_Edgeless_Microfiber_Towel_p/mic_805_01.htm

Microfiber Applicator (I used this for JetSeal)
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Premium_Grade_Microfiber_Applicator_p/mic_292_01.htm

For regular maintenance washing so you don't strip wax you need a pH neutral soap. I use Chemical Guys Maxi Suds and it works well.
Maxi Suds II
http://www.chemicalguys.com/Maxi_Suds_II_Super_Suds_Car_Wash_16_oz_p/cws_101_16.htm

With any detail the key is really in the prep steps (clay, polish, glaze, etc), so here's how the steps breaks down into their goals.

Prep:
Bug and Tar Wash
(dry car with waffle weave towel)
Iron X
Clay Bar - Take your time, use plenty of lubricant. If you ever drop the clay THROW IT AWAY!

Post Prep:
Blacklight - this is a glaze type product to add shine/gloss

Seal (protect):
JetSeal - This seals in all the work you just did with protection that lasts longer than wax

Final finish (These steps make the water bead and the eyes pop :eyebulge :
Wax
Hybrid v7


Now, if I were doing your Deep Impact Blue I'd do the same stuff, but I would use that Pete's 53 wax instead of the Black luminous wax. So your steps would be

Wash - CG Bug + Tar Wash
Car Pro Iron X - and rinse
Clay bar
CG Blacklight
CG JetSeal
CG Pete's 53
CG Hybrid V7

This is really just the first/set up detail - the regular maintenance is not nearly as lengthy once you establish this foundation. On a regular basis you simply wash and wipedown with v7, with an optional wax addition when you feel like it.

Maintenance:
Maxi Suds II car wash
Hybrid v7 Wipedown - this removes any water spots and adds a bit of ongoing protection

And when you feel like adding slickness or the water stops beading - do a wax with Pete's 53 after those two steps

Once a year (unless something crazy happens) I strip it all and start completely over. This lets me look at the raw paint and see how it's doing, and if it needs any correction.

Let me know if you have any other questions I can help with. It's awesome to know someone is about to go detail their Mustang!

Is this kit for black cars good for a color like Guard since it's a dark color?


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[slythetove]

Is this kit for black cars good for a color like Guard since it's a dark color?


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The Blacklight part would work for sure. The black wax I haven't tried on other colors because I only have black vehicles. Honestly if my car was guard I wouldn't use the black wax I'd use Pete's 53. So same advice I gave on DIB really. I think the Pete's will be warmer and help bring out the color more.

I'm not saying you would go wrong with the black wax just maybe more right with the Pete's.

 

[5.0_MLC]

Prep:
Bug and Tar Wash
(dry car with waffle weave towel)
Iron X
Clay Bar - Take your time, use plenty of lubricant. If you ever drop the clay THROW IT AWAY!

Post Prep:
Blacklight - this is a glaze type product to add shine/gloss

Seal (protect):
JetSeal - This seals in all the work you just did with protection that lasts longer than wax

Final finish (These steps make the water bead and the eyes pop :eyebulge :
Wax
Hybrid v7


Now, if I were doing your Deep Impact Blue I'd do the same stuff, but I would use that Pete's 53 wax instead of the Black luminous wax. So your steps would be

Wash - CG Bug + Tar Wash
Car Pro Iron X - and rinse
Clay bar
CG Blacklight
CG JetSeal
CG Pete's 53
CG Hybrid V7

This is really just the first/set up detail - the regular maintenance is not nearly as lengthy once you establish this foundation. On a regular basis you simply wash and wipedown with v7, with an optional wax addition when you feel like it.

Maintenance:
Maxi Suds II car wash
Hybrid v7 Wipedown - this removes any water spots and adds a bit of ongoing protection

And when you feel like adding slickness or the water stops beading - do a wax with Pete's 53 after those two steps

Once a year (unless something crazy happens) I strip it all and start completely over. This lets me look at the raw paint and see how it's doing, and if it needs any correction.

Let me know if you have any other questions I can help with. It's awesome to know someone is about to go detail their Mustang!

After 5 hours I had to stop @ the JetSeal my kids were hungry. I guess I can continue with the wax in the next few days. It does look nice

 

[Mr Monte]

I'm a big fan of:

foam cannon - Chemical Guys EQP300 MTM Professional Foam Cannon
soap - Meguiar's D11101 Shampoo Plus
buff - Meguiar's M2 Mirror Glaze Fine-Cut Cleaner
sealant - Chemical Guys WAC_118_16 - JetSeal Sealant and Paint Protectant
wax - Chemical Guys WAC_300 - Pete's '53 Black Pearl Crystal Polymer White Carnuba Paste Wax
detail spray - Chemical Guys WAC808 Hybrid V7
tire & trim detail - Chemical Guys TVD10716 V.R.P. Super Shine Dressing
interior - Chemical Guys SPI993 Nonsense Colorless and Odorless All Surface Cleaner - !!! This stuff is a must have !!!
glass - buff with Meguiar's M2 then use Rain-X
fabric guard - Chemical Guys SPI21016 Fabric Guard Interior Protector Shield


My SS is a year old next month with 14K miles so it I gave it a full detail a few days ago. Buff with a Porter Cable 7424 XP then seal ( 2 coats 20 mins apart) & wax by foam pads.

 

[slythetove]

After 5 hours I had to stop @ the JetSeal my kids were hungry. I guess I can continue with the wax in the next few days. It does look nice

Nice work! That's a fine stopping point. Now that the jet seal is on next time you start simply with a wash and dry. If you have water spots you can wipe down with hybrid V07 and then wax. If no water spots go straight to wax.

:cheers:

 

[slythetove]

My SS is a year old next month with 14K miles so it I gave it a full detail a few days ago. Buff with a Porter Cable 7424 XP then seal & wax by foam pad.

Looks outstanding!

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