FRPP Track Pack initial thoughts

[lugz]

A couple weekends ago we installed the FRPP track pack, steeda RLCA bearings, J&M vertical links, aluminum DS and H-pipe, steeda camber plates on the front. Finally got the alignment straightened out yesterday - set to the FRPP specs. Running 285-35-19 RE71R square. Note we did not install a subframe lockout kit.

I get where people have described the ride as bouncy - I think that's partly the progressive springs and the dampers, which are a smidge on the soft side. For a car that does 90-95% street driving, this kit is pretty awesome. It really gives nothing (or very little) up on ride comfort vs the PP setup. Seriously. It's what the PP should have been from the factory. Haven't had a chance to get on a track yet, but feels pretty neutral so far. I may set the sways on their stiffer setting (both are soft now.) Tooling around on the street I have yet to even get an enthusiastic squeal out of the tires. (i.e. the RE71 and track pack combo is an order of magnitude better than the stock PP/Pirellii setup, probably mostly due to the tires.)

The drop is nice now that it's settled. Overall, I'm happy with the kit and for what the car is for- enjoying on the street with an occasional track excursion. Kit is a great value and a performance improvement over the PP setup, but not something that's going to rattle out the fillings in your teeth. If you're looking for a hardcore track-monster setup, this probably isn't it.

Sponsored

 

[Bluemustang]

Good review! I tend to agree about the dampers and the progressive springs. The dampers are a little soft and due to the progressive springs I think it induces a bit of bounce.

 

[AppoTheApple]

I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on this. Would you say that for a car that will see no track time, it's worth it? I do love to take my car out to the backroads full of twisties whenever the sun permits.

Also any pics of what it looks like lowered?

 

[lugz]

I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on this. Would you say that for a car that will see no track time, it's worth it? I do love to take my car out to the backroads full of twisties whenever the sun permits.

Also any pics of what it looks like lowered?

Man, that's going to be a subjective thing. It's a good chunk of money, and a good deal of time and effort (or even more money if you're paying someone to do it.) For me, even with the PP option, the road feel was soft and vague; unbecoming of a performance road car. The car also sat up like a 4x4. So for me it was definitely worth it. I will note that one thing that made a huge difference were the RLCA bearings. One side was a pain to press in, the other was a breeze. But now there's no "Fire Engine" feeling where you're transitioning onto the gas hard and feel like the rear is steering in a different direction from the front. If you're doing everything else, may as well do vertical links and RLCA bearings. :headbonk: I'm moving the sway bars to their tighter settings now and will update once I get some miles on them set that way.

I posted some before/after pics in another track pack thread somewhere. Will be getting some better shots this week at the track in Memphis. :ford:

 

[Brazenbuck]

I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on this. Would you say that for a car that will see no track time, it's worth it? I do love to take my car out to the backroads full of twisties whenever the sun permits.

Also any pics of what it looks like lowered?

I have this setup. Even though Ford calls it a track suspension, I'd say it's a good street setup and it's great in the twisties.

 

[spiller]

I'm combining this with BMR handling springs. I will be tracking my car but it's also a daily driver so hoping the firm BMR spring rates with the sways on the stiffest setting allow for a usable track set up. I wish ford would publish the spring rates but I'd imagine they're not as high as the BMR rates.

Which RCLA bearings did you go with?

 

[lugz]

Which RCLA bearings did you go with?

Steeda.

The first one we pressed in we had a helluva time with... probably took us 1.5 hours. We almost gave up on it. The second side went in like buttermilk. The control arm is also very awkward to get a straight shot in a press (see pic of what we finally did) and if you don't have a nice straight shot at it, you're not going to get that bearing in straight. The BMR setup where you can buy the LCA with bearings already pressed in is probably the way to go. Getting the control arm in and out really wasn't hard at all using the BMR recommended instructions.

 

[spiller]

Steeda.

The first one we pressed in we had a helluva time with... probably took us 1.5 hours. We almost gave up on it. The second side went in like buttermilk. The control arm is also very awkward to get a straight shot in a press (see pic of what we finally did) and if you don't have a nice straight shot at it, you're not going to get that bearing in straight. The BMR setup where you can buy the LCA with bearings already pressed in is probably the way to go. Getting the control arm in and out really wasn't hard at all using the BMR recommended instructions.

Thanks for the tip. Bearing installation is where I draw the line (because of reasons you stated above). Any additional NVH with them fitted?

 

[lugz]

Thanks for the tip. Bearing installation is where I draw the line (because of reasons you stated above). Any additional NVH with them fitted?

Not that I've noticed. Maybe a very slight "bump" increase when you hit pavement joints, but really nothing major. I'd do it again.

 

[spiller]

Not that I've noticed. Maybe a very slight "bump" increase when you hit pavement joints, but really nothing major. I'd do it again.

I've added them to the list then

 

[lugz]

Switched over the frt and rear sway bars to the stiffer setting yesterday and went for an extended backroad drive. It definitely livens up the feel quite a bit. I'm digging it so far. Might be too much on a bumpy track or a place with really rough roads, but I'm going to stick with it for a bit. Handling is definitely flatter.

The FRPP instructions say to start soft, but I think if I was to do it over again, I'd start with them stiff and adjust down if needed.

 

[lugz]

I've added them to the list then

Yeah, it's called modfest inflation. The logic goes something like "aw hell, I'm doing springs, may as well do bearings. And dang, while it's apart may as well put on vertical links. Oh, I've got to take off the exhaust to get to those front rear control arm bolts? Shiiiiiiiiit may as well drop in a driveshaft... " It's all fun and games until the credit card bill comes. addle:

 

[Stripler]

Switched over the frt and rear sway bars to the stiffer setting yesterday and went for an extended backroad drive. It definitely livens up the feel quite a bit. I'm digging it so far. Might be too much on a bumpy track or a place with really rough roads, but I'm going to stick with it for a bit. Handling is definitely flatter.

The FRPP instructions say to start soft, but I think if I was to do it over again, I'd start with them stiff and adjust down if needed.

Tighter settings on the front sway bar will promote understeer. Tighter settings on the rear will promote oversteer. Some people want more neutral, some want a little more of over/understeer. I prefer a bit of oversteer bias. Adjustable sway bars allow you some adjustment for your preferred handling characteristics.

 

[Grintch]

Have a good look at the instructions. Getting the bearings in is a pain, and can leave you stuck if you weren't planning ahead.

You have to pull out the intake, so might want to upgrade it at the same time. I did the exhaust at the same time, and I think you may need to pull it too.

Might also want to consider:
Camber bolts or plates (the FR aligment needs more camber, especially up front for real track ot autox use).
Rear spacers (Steeda 1/8" gives just enough rake, without them it looks a bit nose high).
Front swaybar endlinks (the fronts tend to bend with hard use, the rears are probably fine).

 

[lugz]

We did a track adventure last weekend doing road course, high-speed AX and one drag strip pass. Overall, I'd say the track pack did great all around.

Refresher- GT PP car, FRPP track pack with sways set on stiff both frt and back, Steeda RLCA bearing, J&M vertical links. Alignment -1.6 camber in the front and -2.0 in the rear. 285/35/19 square RE71 setup.

Handling is very neutral with this setup. Memphis is a pretty smooth track, so the sway bars were perfect. The crappy roads around the track beat you up a bit, but on track was very nice. No push. Tire wear was pretty even overall EXCEPT for the left frt tire taking a bit of a beating on the outer edge. Memphis has a long, high speed, decreasing radius sweeper that just kills that particular tire. I think a little more negative camber in the front would be in order.

Overall, very happy with the setup. I only made one drag pass coming straight from the road course event over to the drag strip without changing tire pressures or anything (went 12.69@113) because I got wicked wheel hop on the burnout, launch and 1-2 shift and didn't want to break a half-shaft. Not convinced either of the popular lockout kits will help, but have to do something to address it. No problems with wheel hop on the AX or road course - guess shifting there tends to be much smoother/easier there to keep things planted/stable.

Did get to ride along with @TNcoupe for a few laps - have to say I really liked the feel of his linear springs. But I'm going to stick with the track pack setup at least until VIR in the fall.

Oh, just wanted to add - with all the mods above, the car weighed 3660 lbs on the drag scale with 1/2 tank of gas, no mats, no tire pump. The car still feels a little heavy, but drives like an actual sports car now and not the vague, lumbering stock PP feel.

Sponsored