Front Alignment to stop Corded Tires

[UnhandledException]

I’m going to be changing my front set of summer tires (when summer is here) again for the third time because insides wear out much quicker and get corded.

This issue happens only on the front tires never rear. It also only happens on summer tires which are 305s all around on a 350R offset signature wheels. Snow tires are 285s and are on the stock wheels and I dont have this cording issue with them.

Car is still on the original factory alignment and I am at 65,000 miles. It tracks straight while driving or breaking but I do want to go to a more street friendly alignment at this point.

I could take the car to a shop but I always wanted to learn how to do the alignment myself. Is it easy to do? Are there any basic unscientific steps I can take to stop cording my tires?

I have access to a 4 post lift I also have access to a rolling scissor lift on the 4 post lift which allows me to lift either front or rear axle. I think this is an ideal setup lift wise to do alignment which is why I am eager to learn.

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[pilotgore]

I’m going to be changing my front set of summer tires (when summer is here) again for the third time because insides wear out much quicker and get corded.

This issue happens only on the front tires never rear. It also only happens on summer tires which are 305s all around on a 350R offset signature wheels. Snow tires are 285s and are on the stock wheels and I dont have this cording issue with them.

Car is still on the original factory alignment and I am at 65,000 miles. It tracks straight while driving or breaking but I do want to go to a more street friendly alignment at this point.

I could take the car to a shop but I always wanted to learn how to do the alignment myself. Is it easy to do? Are there any basic unscientific steps I can take to stop cording my tires?

I have access to a 4 post lift I also have access to a rolling scissor lift on the 4 post lift which allows me to lift either front or rear axle. I think this is an ideal setup lift wise to do alignment which is why I am eager to learn.

Definitely sounds like you have too much negative camber in the front.

Paging @jmn444 . Jason does his own alignments and may be able to set you down the right path.

I’ve always wondered how this works in the garage, so I’m subbed to learn something.

 

[CJJon]

It isn't hard, but tedious and your set up needs to be spot on. IMO, you should build cribbing under each wheel that is level. Set the car on the cribbing so all the suspension is loaded with the weight of the car. Trying to load the suspension with a lift won't be accurate.

There are numerous videos out there showing the process. I have one of these kits https://quicktrickalignment.com/shop/

 

[CJJon]

 

[UnhandledException]

Why do I need those stands if I have a 4 post lift that is level each direction (left to right and front to back)? The runways are perfectly level when they rest on the locks. Cant I just use the runways as the level surface?

 

[jmn444]

sounds like you've gotten 20-25k out of each set of summer fronts, which isn't bad for a soft tire regardless of alignment.

my first suggestion would be to make sure you have .1 degree toe in, you can do this on a 4 post pretty easily with a set of toe plates that run about $60 ish. If you currently have zero toe or ANY toe out, this should fix your issue.

IF toe isn't the issue, then you'd probably want less camber but you DO sacrifice handling when you remove camber. You'd need camber plates or camber bolts to make that change, bolts are the cheapest option. Setting camber is a bit trickier, so maybe PM me if you get to this stage, it def takes some time since you have to unload the suspension to do it, but I have a method that works pretty well for me.

Funny, that video of the miata alignment by Adam Daly being posted, he's a friend of mine, been autoxing together for a long time. I didn't watch it all, but that dude is super smart and that car is generally running 1st or 2nd at our events, he knows how to set up and drive a car properly for sure!

Side note, level doesn't matter as much for setting toe, but if you are doing more, i'd make sure your 4 post is perfectly level at whatever height you will be doing the work at.

Also, keep in mind that if you decide to play with rear toe, you really have to be careful to keep adjustements EXACTLY the same on both sides or you will change the thrust angle. Takes doing a string alignment to do the rear "right" so leave that alone if you are happy with tire wear back there.

 

[CJJon]

Why do I need those stands if I have a 4 post lift that is level each direction (left to right and front to back)? The runways are perfectly level when they rest on the locks. Cant I just use the runways as the level surface?

Yes

 

[jmn444]

correct, you can use what you have, adam just didn't have a 4 post so he made do. It's just WAY easier to adust toe with the car elevated and the suspension has to be loaded and ideally the tires should be on something that allows them to move freely. I use folded up garbage bags, or linoleum squares with either grease or sand between them to allow for the movement. on the lift i also roll the car forward and back a few times to be sure nothing is binding if i'm just doing a quick toe check.

 

[UnhandledException]

Thanks guys. Let me study these and I’ll reply back with questions. This is very useful.

Also I checked my notes and summer tires have 23k miles on them and have 5/32” in fronts and 4/32 in rears. I usually run them until wear bars as I dont track this car and dont drive it too aggressively as I have other cars for that (this is my daily). So maybe I should drive these one more season but I dont know if safety is an issue with corded tires.

 

[jmn444]

def shouldn't drive on corded tires.

 

[galaxy]

You guys are using strings to check toe, right? Or something else?

My own alignments at home is a bucket list item. About to start acquiring all the gear and get my learn on!

*I posted before watching that setup. That’s pretty trick setup he’s got. I am looking into the smart strings. Also thought about doing the grease between to sheet metal plates and putting those under my race ramp tall wheel stands; would basically amount to the same functional set up he’s got.

 

[jmn444]

lots of mfgs, just something like this works well for toe UNLESS you are doing rear wheels too, then string is best bet to make sure thrust is correct too. at a minimum, you can use them to verify existing rear toe though, and if you are a gambler like me can adjust carefully/equally on both sides too... but realistically that's tough to do with the stock eccentric style toe arms, but easier on aftermarket ones.


http://www.longacreracing.com/produ...0270&pagetitle=Toe-Plates-with-Magnets-(pair)

 

[galaxy]

The other wizardry is converting degrees that toe is published in, into inches/mm. I’ve found an online calculator and a chart here and there. Otherwise....

 

[jmn444]

yeah, going from memory i think .1 degree is generally 1/16" but diff toe plates are probably diff lengths too, so just depends on how far apart your measurement points are.

 

[galaxy]

yeah, going from memory i think .1 degree is generally 1/16" but diff toe plates are probably diff lengths too, so just depends on how far apart your measurement points are.

Tire dia is a factor in that equation also. It’s not math, it’s trig.

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