Fore Fuel System - no power to fuel pump?

[stealth550]

Morning, afternoon, evening.

I'm a bit fresh in the s550 platform but I purchased a modded 16 gt from a dealership out of state about a year ago. I've done some basic stuff so far and checked fuses, relays, FPDM (replaced thinking this may have been the issue..) and have been back and forth since saturday after work not that it's much time I have dedicated cause I work 12+ hrs daily until the weekend comes around again but before anything or me taking it to a performance shop I want to see if anyone has some insight of what may be going on.


2016 GT

Saturday morning, took my car to work no problems at all. Returned home parked and went inside no issues when I was out, driving or anything like that. I went inside for 2 hrs and decided to go pick up lunch so as I got in the car, I usually hear my pump prime but nothing was heard, As I hit the clutch and pushed the button to start, it cranked and never turned over. Thinking I was out of it, I tried it again and nothing. I went inside, got a test light and probed the 4 wires that came out of the pump (Fore Fuel Pump), 4 wires, 2 black and 2 red and got ground with 3 and the last one I probed had 1.8v with accessory and witout accessory on regardless so I figure it's not getting power to the pumps. I've read a bit from saturday on different forums and even asked a few s550 groups on facebook but wanted to turn my head towards forums cause I know there's good knowledge to find deep or someone has run into this situation before.

Again, I'm new to the platform and did NOT do any of these mods myself, I bought it like this so I'm not too familiar other than things like the intake, suspension and of course the fuel system has been modified before I purchased. I've kinda run into a wall and hoping someone has some insight before I actually call a performance shop to see if they could take a look even though the car still has warranty on it but me taking this to the dealership and them charging me $160 just to tell me it's an aftermarket fuel pump and they can't do anything about it.

Thank you for your time and knowledge

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[daSNAK3]

Do you have the inline circuit breaker?

 

[stealth550]

Do you have the inline circuit breaker?

I do and it’s in the trunk, I had replaced 2 30 amp fuses cause one had looked burnt just last night hoping that was the issue but nothing happened.

 

[Proshop]

Is there a fuse holder on the main power feed at the battery? Is the main power wire showing 12 volts? Are the trigger wires that turn the kick the relays on getting 12 volts?

 

[stealth550]

Is there a fuse holder on the main power feed at the battery? Is the main power wire showing 12 volts? Are the trigger wires that turn the kick the relays on getting 12 volts?

If by main power feed, I have this wire that runs from the battery then to a fuse in the middle then to the inline box in the trunk. I have yet to probe that one since I dropped my probe and kinda crushed it so I’m having one come today.

Also I have heard of trigger wire in different forums but I’m not familiar what I’m supposed to be looking at for a trigger wire. One thing I do hear in the rear of the car is when I push the clutch in or just put it in accessory mode is the relay click on but there is 2 relays back there so idk if both or 1 is just clicking on. I don’t have much of a fuse or wiring diagram to follow for it

 

[stealth550]

Is there a fuse holder on the main power feed at the battery? Is the main power wire showing 12 volts? Are the trigger wires that turn the kick the relays on getting 12 volts?

Assuming this is what you’re talking about?

 

[Proshop]

Assuming this is what you’re talking about?

Is that purple mini anl fuse at the battery or in the trunk? Where did the two small 30 amp fuses come from? I’m assuming inside the controller box. The trigger (s) wire (green wires in your bottom pic) is a signal sent from PCM to the controller box to click on the relay’s to power up the fuel pumps.

 

[stealth550]

Is that purple mini anl fuse at the battery or in the trunk? Where did the two small 30 amp fuses come from? I’m assuming inside the controller box. The trigger (s) wire (green wires in your bottom pic) is a signal sent from PCM to the controller box to click on the relay’s to power up the fuel pumps.

The purple fuse is in the trunk, I checked the battery and the only thing it has is the wire running off the positive battery terminal then going inside the car and hooking up into the box.

Are both wires supposed to get the 12v? or is one 12v and other ground? and is that with or without accessory on?

 

[Proshop]

The purple fuse is in the trunk, I checked the battery and the only thing it has is the wire running off the positive battery terminal then going inside the car and hooking up into the box.

Are both wires supposed to get the 12v? or is one 12v and other ground? and is that with or without accessory on?

A typical controller will have the main power and ground ( heavier gauge wires) coming into it along with the trigger wire(s). Coming out of the box and going to the fuel hat you should have as you stated in your original post 4 wires, two positives and two negatives that feed your fuel pumps power. When attempting to crank the car all the wires except the three ground wires should read over 12 volts. Once you get your new probe or multimeter you need to check all those wires for power when cranking the car over. Also check you main ground in to make sure it is properly grounded and not loose. That will cause the car to not start also. Been there done that…

 

[SheepDog]

The purple fuse is in the trunk, I checked the battery and the only thing it has is the wire running off the positive battery terminal then going inside the car and hooking up into the box.

Are both wires supposed to get the 12v? or is one 12v and other ground? and is that with or without accessory on?

Your main power feed fuse (Purple ANL) should be as close to the battery as possible, not in the trunk.
Are you sure that the pumps work? Blown fuses indicate excessive load, so you either have a short somewhere, or the pumps resistance is too high. I always recommend to people that are trying to work on and diagnose their own stuff, to get a power probe. A test light is ok, but being able to energize and provide a ground is superior when testing things. This will allow you to energize and ground the pumps directly to see if they even work, and will also allow you to test the ground side of the circuits

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Probe-...lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A10E1CTDY297X2&th=1

 

[SheepDog]

Also, the trigger wire is yellow with a gray stripe. This comes off of the harness that would normally plug into the OEM fuel bucket. Pull up the back seat and verify that the tap or splice to that wire is good

 

[stealth550]

A typical controller will have the main power and ground ( heavier gauge wires) coming into it along with the trigger wire(s). Coming out of the box and going to the fuel hat you should have as you stated in your original post 4 wires, two positives and two negatives that feed your fuel pumps power. When attempting to crank the car all the wires except the three ground wires should read over 12 volts. Once you get your new probe or multimeter you need to check all those wires for power when cranking the car over. Also check you main ground in to make sure it is properly grounded and not loose. That will cause the car to not start also. Been there done that…

So the 4 wires that are on it, 2 black and 2 red are all those wires supposed to read the 12v or is it just the 2 red ones or black ones? Also the ground wires I see are mounted on the FPDM and there are 3 of them that are hooked bottom of the FPDM, top of the FPDM and other one is hooked to the opposite side of the FPDM. I don’t have pictures of it right now but when I get off work, I can snap some more pictures. Also I just remembered that I would have to crank it to see if it’s feeding the 12v.. Honest mistake but I will try that tonight with someone.

Where would the main ground be assuming it’s for the inline box correct?

 

[SheepDog]

So the 4 wires that are on it, 2 black and 2 red are all those wires supposed to read the 12v or is it just the 2 red ones or black ones? Also the ground wires I see are mounted on the FPDM and there are 3 of them that are hooked bottom of the FPDM, top of the FPDM and other one is hooked to the opposite side of the FPDM. I don’t have pictures of it right now but when I get off work, I can snap some more pictures. Also I just remembered that I would have to crank it to see if it’s feeding the 12v.. Honest mistake but I will try that tonight with someone.

Where would the main ground be assuming it’s for the inline box correct?

This guy has a decent video of the Fore system install. Unfortunately, DIY'ers cut a lot of corners when doing stuff like this, so its best to re-evaluate the entire install tip to tail. You dont want to take chances with the fuel system.

 

[Proshop]

So the 4 wires that are on it, 2 black and 2 red are all those wires supposed to read the 12v or is it just the 2 red ones or black ones? Also the ground wires I see are mounted on the FPDM and there are 3 of them that are hooked bottom of the FPDM, top of the FPDM and other one is hooked to the opposite side of the FPDM. I don’t have pictures of it right now but when I get off work, I can snap some more pictures. Also I just remembered that I would have to crank it to see if it’s feeding the 12v.. Honest mistake but I will try that tonight with someone.

Where would the main ground be assuming it’s for the inline box correct?

All the red wires and green wires should read 12 volt + when cranking the vehicle (black wires are grounds). What’s weird I just looked at your picture again of the box and I don’t see a main ground in. It might be hidden or I just can’t see it in the pic.

 

[stealth550]

Your main power feed fuse (Purple ANL) should be as close to the battery as possible, not in the trunk.
Are you sure that the pumps work? Blown fuses indicate excessive load, so you either have a short somewhere, or the pumps resistance is too high. I always recommend to people that are trying to work on and diagnose their own stuff, to get a power probe. A test light is ok, but being able to energize and provide a ground is superior when testing things. This will allow you to energize and ground the pumps directly to see if they even work, and will also allow you to test the ground side of the circuits

https://www.amazon.com/Power-Probe-...lpcontext&ref_=fplfs&smid=A10E1CTDY297X2&th=1

That’s where I’m getting at now with a mistake that I just realized that I would have to actually crank the car up to see if it’s getting power to the pumps. I’m going to get my brother to help me crank it and see if the pumps get voltage.

I’m a bit peeved cause that’s exactly what I got or had.. a power probe but crawling out the backseat I had rested it on the floor and well.. I had crushed it stepping out lol but I had ordered a new one on monday so It should be arriving today and be at home by the time I get off.

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