Ford extended warranty questions.

[Blwnsmoke]

Well, that figures. Wonder who else does this similar in Florida? Anyone with any ideas?

Two things.

1) a Ford dealer has to be licensed in FL to sell an ESP.
2) All dealers must sell to FL reside ts at MSRP. FL considers ESPs insurance and they must be sold across the board at the same price.

The only online dealer that is registered in FL is Lombard Ford. Going through them, you will save the sales tax but still pay MSRP.

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[Blwnsmoke]

Flood

Take a look at Flood Ford on-line as well….they offer the same deal as granger….also a Ford ESP. I’ve purchased from both over the years, both are great. Within a few days you’ll receive your ESP via email, and you can call Ford to verify it’s properly attached to your vin.

The ESP on my Raptor just paid for itself in a sunroof repair.

Flood cant sell to FL residents and if they could, it is still MSRP.

 

[Blwnsmoke]

A gt350 price for ESPs are completely different then a mustsng with a 5.0

FYI. I just bought a $0 deductible PremiumCare from Granger last month: 10y/75k for $2,175.

 

[Traffic22]

Flood

Flood cant sell to FL residents and if they could, it is still MSRP.

It’s annoying both CA and Fla have this rule now.

 

[Jerry Carguy]

You will need to get a used vehicle inspection form filled out by any Ford dealer. My quote is $170, supposedly an hour of labor! I am in the wrong business if that is the going rate.... Almost a deal breaker. I am looking for a cheaper estimate, hope to find one locally. I know I would still save a lot, but holy shit, what is going on with these dealerships and the labor cost gouging?

 

[68Stang]

Just purchased an ESP from Granger Ford. Best price I could find.

 

[Cobra Jet]

Crazy how this actually works.

So I bought a 10 year, but it actually goes back to the first in service date. Basically when the car was sold.

So my 2019 was sold in August of 2020. So my ESP goes until August of 2030. So basically I'm really only getting 7 years...

I've been saying what you found out for years on here - in many Extended Warranty threads.

If buying a brand new car and an ESP, that ESP starts as of the vehicle purchase in-service date and will run concurrently with the 3/36 and 5/60 - not many sellers of such warranties will tell consumers that fact.

The concerns with an extended Warranty one should analyze for themselves is:
- Does the Extended Warranty run concurrently with the existing new car 3/36 and/or Powertrain 5/60? Meaning, is it retroactive as of the date the car went into service? If the answer is yes, then get the term that is the longest interval, otherwise you may not be getting proper coverage.

- Will you kill the extended warranty by years or miles first? Sure ok, you won't be putting more than 5k on it per year BUT the "year" term will most likely run out first. Same is true with a daily driver - will you kill the warranty with annual miles quicker than the years?

- Check to see what is NOT covered. This is THE most important aspect of ANY aftermarket Warranty for ANYTHING. The warranty won't mean diddly if day the electrical system has a problem and the extended warranty excludes all OR certain electrical components. Always read all the fine print, see what is NOT covered. Otherwise it's throwing $$$ away.

- If the warranty starts or goes into affect AFTER the new car 3/36 or Powertrain 5/60, make sure to verify the exact terms and conditions.

----

Now most don't ever read their Owner's Manuals at all, and don't even know what's in them. So I will make this one recommendation:
- Go into your Owner's Manual to the pages about the Vehicle Warranty. Read what IS COVERED under the new car 3/36, Powertrain 5/60 and Emissions 8/80. You will be totally surprised at what IS covered by the Ford factory warranty, it's very comprehensive and extensive..

Much of what is covered by the Ford factory warranties often gets overlapped in Extended Warranties - so know what you're buying when buying an extended warranty.

 

[BearRaid]

The dealership from which I purchased my Mach 1 sold me a 10 year ESP that was represented as Ford Protect, but turns out to be a third party company in Utah. The T&Cs specifically indicate the following as ineligible for coverage under the contract: "Any vehicle that is or will be used/equipped or identified as: competitive driving or racing". Thinking the contract might be worthless for a Mach 1, unless one is creative about the conditions under which a component failed. Does anyone know if Ford contracts carry the same exclusions? Seems an odd exclusion for a vehicle marketed for track use.

 

[Traffic22]

Yes in one of the other threads someone posted an excerpt from the Ford warrant that basically says it excludes track use.

Bottom line, if you track it, you either have to play dumb, or pay your own way,

I have an acquaintance who did some open tack with hos 2016 or 17, GT350. (Can’t recalt an event it started to make a very suspicious noise, similar to a rod knock. He had it towed into the dealership, gave them few details and a shoulder shrug, and told them to fix it under warranty.

The tech interrogated the computer and saw a lot of high RPM driving and asked about it. My acquaintance shrugged his shoulders and just said he was driving it. Ford approved the claim and he got a brand new revised version of the GT350 motor.

Bottom line, you don’t have to prove you didn’t abuse it, they have to prove you did.

I would also add, @Cobra Jet’s post is the most accurate, logical, and true thing you will read about warranties. You may want to read the contract language of your 3rd part warranty, if you’re happy with it, cool, if not, often they include a cash out option pro rated, with a small penalty.

 

[Skye]

Does anyone know if Ford contracts carry the same exclusions? Seems an odd exclusion for a vehicle marketed for track use.

*I am not a lawyer.

This third party company (any 3rd party), I'd be interested as to how they pay out, versus Ford. If their process is a PITA and they drag their feet, or they pay as soon as Ford confirms a problem in need of repair.

Does this third party list specific components in their coverage?

Did the selling dealer present the warranty as a Ford policy?

On not being a lawyer and the policy, while the car might be track oriented and equipped towards that, IMO, unless they can prove (or you offer, something another Member did recently) you were racing/on track at the time, this 3rd party (or Ford) cannot balk and must honor the policy. I'd never approach the words racing, track, spirited, etc., in my discussing the topic of warranty and repairs with the company or Ford. You use the car to drive from point A to B. That's it.

Some excerpts from the 2022 Ford Warranty Guide

*** Ford disclaims the implied warranty of fitness for a particular purpose if your vehicle is used for racing, even if the vehicle is equipped for racing. ***

WHAT IS NOT COVERED UNDER THE NEW VEHICLE LIMITED WARRANTY?

misuse of the vehicle, such a driving over curbs, overloading, racing or using the vehicle as a permanent stationary power source

tire damage due to under or over inflation, tire chain use, racing, spinning (as when stuck in snow or mud), improper mounting or dismounting, or tire repair

 

[BearRaid]

Yes in one of the other threads someone posted an excerpt from the Ford warrant that basically says it excludes track use.

Bottom line, if you track it, you either have to play dumb, or pay your own way,

I have an acquaintance who did some open tack with hos 2016 or 17, GT350. (Can’t recalt an event it started to make a very suspicious noise, similar to a rod knock. He had it towed into the dealership, gave them few details and a shoulder shrug, and told them to fix it under warranty.

The tech interrogated the computer and saw a lot of high RPM driving and asked about it. My acquaintance shrugged his shoulders and just said he was driving it. Ford approved the claim and he got a brand new revised version of the GT350 motor.

Bottom line, you don’t have to prove you didn’t abuse it, they have to prove you did.

I would also add, @Cobra Jet’s post is the most accurate, logical, and true thing you will read about warranties. You may want to read the contract language of your 3rd part warranty, if you’re happy with it, cool, if not, often they include a cash out option pro rated, with a small penalty.

I appreciate the feedback. I checked out the details of the Ford Protect Premium plan (https://grangermotorsbrochure.s3.amazonaws.com/PremiumCARE.pdf), and there was no mention about track use, so thought I'd ask. I did check the owners manual, as Cobra Jet suggested, and sure enough, it's mentioned.

I purchased the car only 10 days ago, and the ESP has a 30 day period to cancel for full refund. Am planning to do that, and maybe roll over to the plan backed by Ford.

 

[Skye]

maybe roll over to the plan backed by Ford.

https://fordprotect.ford.com/extended-service-plan

To compliment your existing research...I found this site helpful. The down arrows expand detail and allow one to review everything between policies at a glance.

 

[BearRaid]

https://fordprotect.ford.com/extended-service-plan

To compliment your existing research...I found this site helpful. The down arrows expand detail and allow one to review everything between policies at a glance.

Great info! Thank you

 

[Finally21]

www.Lombardfordwarrantys.com also does them.

 

[EFI]

Bottom line, you don’t have to prove you didn’t abuse it, they have to prove you did.

But what is defined as "abuse"? And doesn't Ford have to specifically state it in the manual or somewhere so that users know about it?

There's no rule AFAIK that says you can't go WOT to redline more than x times per day otherwise your warranty is null. As long as you stay within the specified RPM range, you should be able to use it as much or as little as you want right?

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