Forced induction power differences

[Travis@boostworks]

Got your email.. I'll give you a call when my wife and I get back from Puerto Rico.

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[olaosunt]

True. I also made my first pass in standard driving mode with traction control on as a baseline. Then it rained before I could make a second pass, so I actually might have been better or worse. It may have been pulling out significant timing to keep the wheels down, because on the street with TC off 1st is useless past 3500, 2nd breaks loose almost enough to point the car a different way at about 4500-5000, and third towards top end you can feel the tires walking a little. Fourth is all go.

So basically I need to run it without TC to give a better answer - or slap tires on it - or both.

Dyno's lie is what I'm learning - or at least foster misconceptions. If I convert from the mustang dyno to dynojet, on race gas with race tune I'm at about 640 / 510 at the wheels. This trap speed doesn't support that number.

So I think TC was waylaying the real number some.

I ran it 12.9 @ 112 on stock tires, with just a catback before the blower.

With the blower, it was 12.6 @ 124. Spin, timing retard, spin, timing retard. Spin, timing retard. Then 4th gear pulled hard to make up for the first eighth mile lol

I hear you bro.
Put some Hoosier slicks on 17 inch welds/race stars and skinnies/some stop wheel hop parts from Steeda or BMR and you will run low 11's at least. I assume you have half shafts and the driver mod. Lol
One piece drive shaft/ RXt clutch if you want to drive it home.MGW may be optional but I am sure will help.

 

[gqneon]

I hear you bro.
Put some Hoosier slicks on 17 inch welds/race stars and skinnies/some stop wheel hop parts from Steeda or BMR and you will run low 11's at least. I assume you have half shafts and the driver mod. Lol
One piece drive shaft/ RXt clutch if you want to drive it home.MGW may be optional but I am sure will help.

I was looking at tires tonight, that's a lot more cash than I expected to spend but it's on my list. I have an MGW coming this week and half shafts are on my list too. I have a BMR cradle lockout coming Tuesday. Gonna have to stop the hemorrhaging for a bit after blowing $10k in parts and mods.

Tapatalk spelling errors inside!

 

[beefcake]

lund tunes the quickest cars in the country,

on customers cars, this early in the game, they are going to be more conservative

we can push as far as you want, our shop car is making over 900rwhp on the stock block, but that is a ticking time bomb and we know it.

lund can push as far as you want, but these cars have been out for less than a year, and not many pushing a lot of track time.

everyone wants huge numbers, and then when the engine goes, they are going to be looking for someone to blame and it's "ALWAYS" the tuner.

lund will push it if you want it pushed, especially with better fuel, they will give you recommendations via the ticket. and make sure you acknowledge wanting to give it more

 

[gqneon]

lund tunes the quickest cars in the country,

on customers cars, this early in the game, they are going to be more conservative

we can push as far as you want, our shop car is making over 900rwhp on the stock block, but that is a ticking time bomb and we know it.

lund can push as far as you want, but these cars have been out for less than a year, and not many pushing a lot of track time.

everyone wants huge numbers, and then when the engine goes, they are going to be looking for someone to blame and it's "ALWAYS" the tuner.

lund will push it if you want it pushed, especially with better fuel, they will give you recommendations via the ticket. and make sure you acknowledge wanting to give it more

Yeah when I told him I had race gas handy the next thing in my inbox was a tune for it, and it made more power immediately. Then came rev 2 which for some reason made less power with more timing. I think theres a common denominator in this issue outside the tune or tuner so I'm going from A-Z through my install now.

That blower outlet elbow is cut pretty short in mine just to clear the frame rail, but no leaks and as much bend as it will fit to keep the flow smooth.

I think after regapping the plugs that's what I'm going to retrofit to silicone or metal if possible next.

Tapatalk spelling errors inside!

 

[z06psi]

lund tunes the quickest cars in the country,

on customers cars, this early in the game, they are going to be more conservative

we can push as far as you want, our shop car is making over 900rwhp on the stock block, but that is a ticking time bomb and we know it.

lund can push as far as you want, but these cars have been out for less than a year, and not many pushing a lot of track time.

everyone wants huge numbers, and then when the engine goes, they are going to be looking for someone to blame and it's "ALWAYS" the tuner.

lund will push it if you want it pushed, especially with better fuel, they will give you recommendations via the ticket. and make sure you acknowledge wanting to give it more

Hey Terry, Is Lund into tuning meth? Better fuel is not an option for me here but Meth is and I have experience with it.

 

[beefcake]

Hey Terry, Is Lund into tuning meth? Better fuel is not an option for me here but Meth is and I have experience with it.

sure, it's tricky on these cars, you have to remember that on say a 3v, when you added meth, you were just dumping extra fuel into the mix

on these cars, when you add fuel through the intake, it pulls It from the injector

the stoich of meth is only 6, so you have to do it correctly or the car could go lean really quick

 

[z06psi]

sure, it's tricky on these cars, you have to remember that on say a 3v, when you added meth, you were just dumping extra fuel into the mix

on these cars, when you add fuel through the intake, it pulls It from the injector

the stoich of meth is only 6, so you have to do it correctly or the car could go lean really quick

I would probably put the nozzle right in front of the TB. That's normally where we put it on the Corvettes. After the MAF. It will be added fuel for sure.

I guess I will log from the smallest jet and go from there.

 

[Plimmer]

I would probably put the nozzle right in front of the TB. That's normally where we put it on the Corvettes. After the MAF. It will be added fuel for sure.



I guess I will log from the smallest jet and go from there.

Don't think it matters where you put the nozzle. The ECU will adjust fueling to the targeted lambda value that is commanded by the fueling tables. The lambda value is provided by the wideband in the exhaust.

 

[Stage_3]

I read an article where the magazine took a stock GT500 to half dozen dynos over a one week period and everyone gave him different numbers and the highest to lowest spread was something like 70 rwhp. You cannot believe dyno numbers and you most certainly can't believe numbers spewed out by vendors.

THIS EXACTLY. Track numbers don't lie.

^^Both of these.
I have heard that dynometers can sometimes be "tweaked" to read out what people want to see/hear. Plus,.....who knows the last time that specific dyno was calibrated?
Good luck!

 

[Travis@boostworks]

Unfortunately, marketing to the masses has pushed us as vendors to focus on "wheel horsepower". I say this because as we've seen so many times, it's not a really good measuring stick. However, it's become the industry standard, so we have to publish a number.

The problem is that a lot of people are dishonest in terms of inflating numbers with a simple stroke of a key. The customer sees the big number, but wonders why his car gets beat by a car making less advertised power. Happens all the time.. But, some manufacturers have learned to cash in.

Our shop car makes an honest 660whp/535wtq, and has gone a best of 10.22 and 130.4mph at full weight on slicks. To me, the best measuring stick is trap speed versus weight of the vehicle. The dyno is a tuning tool. It spits out an extrapolated figure based on torque, plus a ton of other factors. Each dyno is different. Correction factors, and environmental factors can weigh heavily on the number that it spits out.

 

[gqneon]

I think slicks are in my future.

Tapatalk spelling errors inside!

 

[Travis@boostworks]

Gotta run slicks.. We cut a 1.48 60' on the 28x10's. Although, side stepping the clutch at 6k rpm produces a sound like a cannon going off inside the car. Lol

 

[S550 KID]

I have a base HO procharger kit at 7/8 psi, full weight 4000lbs with a non peppy brr tune trapping 124ish here in Florida on a bad DA night. Just for reference. I need a new tune like yesterday as well.

 

[Stage_3]

Unfortunately, marketing to the masses has pushed us as vendors to focus on "wheel horsepower". I say this because as we've seen so many times, it's not a really good measuring stick. However, it's become the industry standard, so we have to publish a number.

The problem is that a lot of people are dishonest in terms of inflating numbers with a simple stroke of a key. The customer sees the big number, but wonders why his car gets beat by a car making less advertised power. Happens all the time.. But, some manufacturers have learned to cash in.

Our shop car makes an honest 660whp/535wtq, and has gone a best of 10.22 and 130.4mph at full weight on slicks. To me, the best measuring stick is trap speed versus weight of the vehicle. The dyno is a tuning tool. It spits out an extrapolated figure based on torque, plus a ton of other factors. Each dyno is different. Correction factors, and environmental factors can weigh heavily on the number that it spits out.

BINGO!!!!!

:cheers:

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