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Fluidyne warning: failed welds

Performance nut

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I just spoke to the owner of Fluidyne concerning a leaky weld on my radiator. First, they don't back weld failures, it is actually excluded from their warranty. To quote the owner "Our experience is that weld failures are due to corrosion". Even if it is a workmanship issue, he will charge for repairs beyond the limited warranty period. I was told by the salesman that they backed their welds for a lifetime but apparently the owner feels otherwise.

Coming from a background in water analysis, I have seen absolutely horrific water (grey water) be used to for cooling and never seen a weld fail that quick. Corrosion coupons don't corrode that quickly unless water chemistry is really bad (almost no chemical corrosion strategy in place). Considering that all of Ford's cooling process has been followed, I find it hard to believe that corrosion is a failing point unless Ford is using a faulty chemistry control system... which I'm having a hard time believing.

I recommend folks stay away from this guy and find alternate cooling solutions.
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GregO

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I just spoke to the owner of Fluidyne concerning a leaky weld on my radiator. First, they don't back weld failures, it is actually excluded from their warranty.
If there’s an inclusion in the weld that would be the first place corrosion starts to compromise the weld.
Bad welds cause corrosion stress cracking.
Better Business Bureau might be enough to get their attention.
 
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Performance nut

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If there’s an inclusion in the weld that would be the first place corrosion starts to compromise the weld.
Bad welds cause corrosion stress cracking.
Better Business Bureau might be enough to get their attention.
Thank you. That is why I asked about workmanship. To him, it doesn't matter, it's not covered. BBB will not help. Once he sites his warranty policy, BBB will back off. Best thing is to get word out to avoid the vendor.
 

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I didn’t take the time to look but is that in writing on an official company document.
I haven't found their warranty policy anywhere on their site nor any sort of RMA/warranty process for repairs. Honestly, I can't even remember if there was a card included in the box at all.
 

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I have little faith in warranties to begin with, most warranties have so many squirm out features, that it's basically an election on the manufacturers part.

But I'd much rather have a product that doesn't fail than a rock solid warranty. These two issues sometimes go hand in hand. It's easy to provide a rock solid warranty if you're making 5 lb sledge hammers. So the fact that they DON'T cover it, may be indicative of their risk analysis (i.e. they know they're prone to fail).

Selling an alloy fluid heat exchanger (that's not a billet or cast piece) assembled by welding pieces together but NOT warrantying the welds is like selling a boat that you warranty except for the hull.

This exact issue is why I tried to stay clear of the welded expansion tanks, way too many issues with people having leaks. I run the Radium tank because it's bolt together with a gasket, no welds to worry about (and because it saves space).

I went with Mishimoto for my radiator and I'm sure every product has it's failures and complaints, but from what I've heard, they stand behind their radiators pretty well.
 

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I haven't found their warranty policy anywhere on their site nor any sort of RMA/warranty process for repairs. Honestly, I can't even remember if there was a card included in the box at all.
Yup, I looked just as well. Nothing on the site.
Maybe another call requesting the warranty Doc. to be emailed in the form of a PDF file ?

By chance is the leak located where the welding bead stops or possibly stops and restarts ?
 
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Yup, I looked as well. Nothing on the site.
Maybe another call requesting the warranty Doc. to be emailed in the form of a PDF file ?

By chance is the leak located where the welding bead stops or possibly stops and restarts ?
We can't get close enough to take a picture to see the specifics of the weld. We can see where the tube meets the end cap but we can't see where specifically in the weld it is leaking. I will say this, it has to be tiny. It wouldn't surprise me if it is where the weld starts/stops since I could see the possibility of a very minute gap if you aren't careful with your bead.

When we remove it, I'll take pictures. This isn't going back in so a suitable replacement is necessary first before we rip this out.
 

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I could see the possibility of a very minute gap if you aren't careful with your bead.
Yes, Fliudyne states TIG welded construction.
Proper weld tie in, overlap and tail out are critical to avoid forming an inclusion.

Here’s an example of a weld bead that was stopped improperly. The pit in the center of the end puddle is the first place corrosion will begin.
A36FA3FB-962C-4E5D-9975-95B22F085B8D.png
 

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Fluidyne is complete garbage. I use to run them in my foxbody and would always crack driverside lower welds. Pure junk!!!
Just my 2 cents
Anthony
 

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Yes, Fliudyne states TIG welded construction.
Proper weld tie in, overlap and tail out are critical to avoid forming an inclusion.

Here’s an example of a weld bead that was stopped improperly. The pit in the center of the end puddle is the first place corrosion will begin.
A36FA3FB-962C-4E5D-9975-95B22F085B8D.png

You keep saying inclusion... Inclusions are usually from Slag. There is no slag in aluminum tig welding. The picture you posted is an end crater that needs to be filled up because of the micro crack due to improper termination.
 
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GregO

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Inclusions are usually from Slag.
Yes or Tungsten inclusions.
So Crater Cracking it is or in the Fitter world an (A-hole)….. The big issue with thin wall tube or thin gauge sheet stock material is the crater will penetrated to the back side of the weld.
We do agree it’s improper weld termination.
I’ve used the term Crater Inclusion but that could be incorrect and I do tend to generalize on the forum board.
 
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I just spoke to the owner of Fluidyne concerning a leaky weld on my radiator. First, they don't back weld failures, it is actually excluded from their warranty. To quote the owner "Our experience is that weld failures are due to corrosion". Even if it is a workmanship issue, he will charge for repairs beyond the limited warranty period. I was told by the salesman that they backed their welds for a lifetime but apparently the owner feels otherwise.

Coming from a background in water analysis, I have seen absolutely horrific water (grey water) be used to for cooling and never seen a weld fail that quick. Corrosion coupons don't corrode that quickly unless water chemistry is really bad (almost no chemical corrosion strategy in place). Considering that all of Ford's cooling process has been followed, I find it hard to believe that corrosion is a failing point unless Ford is using a faulty chemistry control system... which I'm having a hard time believing.

I recommend folks stay away from this guy and find alternate cooling solutions.
I'll also agree with the above sentiments regarding Fluidyne.

Not S550 related, but I had to recently replace the rad in my 94 Cobra. You're not going to believe it, but it was the 2nd time I've had to replace it - and it was the 2nd and LAST Fluidyne radiator I will ever purchase. Each aluminum Fluidyne became a leaker where the core rows are inserted at the tank end (yes, the welds).. The first leaked right out of the box on first startup - had to get a new one, which is the 2nd. The 2nd has only lasted less than 7 years on a vehicle that is barely driven and is garaged.

I went with Mishimoto this time due to their patented design for the SN95's, their price and the fact as noted by them on their website, a lifetime warranty showing they stand behind their products.

The Mishimoto is high quality and also has a Serial # on it for warranty purposes. It was a direct fit with no mods necessary and it comes with a rad cap too. The overall quality and workmanship of the Mishi is far superior to the Fluidyne hands down. The weld quality is evidently visibly superior between the 2 products.

If going with a Mishi, before plunking down your $$$ at XYZ Vendor, go to Amazon and look up the exact Mishi part # on there. They have an Amazon store and the prices are sometimes less than most of the common Mustang vendors and you could qualify for free shipping depending on your Amazon account type. You can also apply any current Amazon discounts or perks if they are available to you, which will bring down the cost more.

And FYI Mishimoto comes right out of Delaware.
 
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TeeLew

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This sucks. Fluidyne used to produce a good product.
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