Fix Bouncy Ride

[Bluemustang]

I have the bounce too. Ordered some steeda shock mounts because of this thread haha. Hopefully they work out! Im on FRPP track pack + cb005 + RLCA. Will report back with results soon.

Mootang, have you gotten out for any spirited driving since the suspension install? I got in a little blast down hwy 49 near Placerville this past weekend. First real driving since i got everything done. Despite the bounce, the handling is amazing.

Yeah I'm willing to bet it's the RLCA bearing that is doing it.

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[SYK]

Just wondering.. Did OP figure out his bounciness?

 

[Mootang]

[MENTION=26707]Mootang[/MENTION] I'm eager to hear what else may be the cause for you, that's a nice mod list and I have the utmost respect for Mike D. so if he says it, I'd listen. My experience is the dampers are very important and like you say it seems very easy to get to the point where I have all spring no damper. I always thought my bounce was coming from the back, at least it felt that way. Recently I noticed adjusting the front is where I noticed the difference. I had my front Koni adjustable struts set at full soft and had bounce. I adjusted them to .5 turns up from full soft and the bounce was gone. I backed it off to .25 turns from soft and the bounce is annoying again. It's that sensitive. So I have it at .5 but the compression on the Konis is off I think. Sadly, they are single adjustable.

I am going to try and contact Mike D. again today since I haven't spoken to him yet. I been thinking about this overnight and figure I make a list again for this do this weekend, if the weather permits. I am buying some wood today to make a 10 inch wood block wheel crib for all fours.

Will lift the car up, re-clock the front bushings again (had a shop do it, but now I can make sure of it). I don't have any more rear bushings left, so I will check, but leave those alone for the most part. Then I will remove the front and rear sway bar endlinks, just one on each (had the shop do it too, but not sure they did it right and I am still a little suspicious about it).

Test drive.

Will reattach the endlinks and level them out to make sure there is no bind in there. Install the Viking dampers (if it arrives in time).

Test drive. If no dampers, will wait for another day again lol.

Will report back on this further when I go through the motions again.

 

[Mootang]

Just wondering.. Did OP figure out his bounciness?

No clue where he went lol. I posted an apology too for hijacking it .

 

[Jmart]

Wow, I've been away from this thread for a couple of days and it's suddenly mirroring my exact experience. I've been discussing my setup with Mike D at Steeda on a near-daily basis for the past month or so in an attempt to diagnose and resolve the bounce we're all describing. Another shout out to [MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION] for such awesome customer service, it's been fantastic! :cheers:

Exactly as Mootang and GTPP seem to experience, I'm getting an annoying latent oscillation during normal city driving. It happens most over small bumps/waviness in the road surface where the load transfer into the suspension is smaller, and seems to be coming from the rear. Over harsher bumps and when hard on the throttle the oscillations go away. Harsh bumps are a quick up/down/done and feel very planted. Aside from the bounce, the car feels great: wheel hop is gone, cornering is excellent, and the car feels much tighter and more predictable.

My car is a 2017 PP with the following:
Pro Action adjustable dampers/Steeda billet shock mounts (formerly PP dampers)
Ultralight linear springs/0.25" rear spacers (formerly SP080 springs/PP springs)
Steeda bumpstops (formerly cut OEM PP bumpstops)
LCA bearing (first BMR and now Steeda's unit)
FP toe bearing
CB005
32 psi tire pressure
Clocked/reclocked/triple checked any remaining bushings for clocking issues
Alignment

Each piece has either been systematically installed on it's own or removed/reinstalled individually to evaluate it's impact on this bounciness. My conclusions:

-CB005 made no impact whatsoever on the feel of the oscillations. A great mod, and doesn't seem to be adding anything to the bounce.
-Adjustable damper settings: with my setup, oscillations are smallest when the front is at full soft, rear is somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 turns from full soft.
-Airing down to 32 psi made a noticeable improvement.
-Steeda bumpstops feel the same as my OEM stops that I'd cut previously.
-Upper billet shock mounts reduced the bounce by ~50% but didn't cure it.
-At this point, my leading theory is that there's still a slight bind in the articulating LCA/damper system that is preventing the rear shocks from efficiently doing their job.

Overall I'm in a MUCH better place than I was a couple of months ago: initially my bounce was so bad, I was already getting fed up with my brand new car and was hating my drive to the office every day. The above steps have removed maybe 80% of the bounce compared to when I started, but there is still room for improvement and I'm working with Mike to hopefully come up with further ideas here.

Next steps: Mike has recommended I loosen/re-torque my front swaybar bracket mounts just to make sure there isn't an artificial preload there. I've already checked and confirmed the rear bar isn't binding. I'm also going to try airing down to 30 psi to see if this makes an impact. I'll report back with any findings.

Good luck to my fellow bounce club members! :frusty:

 

[jbailer]

I am buying some wood today to make a 10 inch wood block wheel crib for all fours.

I've been thinking about this also. Currently I have 2 ramps that I can't even drive onto and would really need 4 to do a lot of things. I have so many things in my garage, I'd rather find 4 stackable blocks I could put under the wheels to save space. I wouldn't know what to call them but keep putting off my search. I need to do this soon though. As I do more and more, I'm more comfortable doing the work myself and trust my work over a shops. It will take me 4 times as long but I know everything will be perfect. Plus it's fun and I don't want to pay for it.

 

[BmacIL]

Wow, I've been away from this thread for a couple of days and it's suddenly mirroring my exact experience. I've been discussing my setup with Mike D at Steeda on a near-daily basis for the past month or so in an attempt to diagnose and resolve the bounce we're all describing. Another shout out to [MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION] for such awesome customer service, it's been fantastic! :cheers:

Exactly as Mootang and GTPP seem to experience, I'm getting an annoying latent oscillation during normal city driving. It happens most over small bumps/waviness in the road surface where the load transfer into the suspension is smaller, and seems to be coming from the rear. Over harsher bumps and when hard on the throttle the oscillations go away. Harsh bumps are a quick up/down/done and feel very planted. Aside from the bounce, the car feels great: wheel hop is gone, cornering is excellent, and the car feels much tighter and more predictable.

My car is a 2017 PP with the following:
Pro Action adjustable dampers/Steeda billet shock mounts (formerly PP dampers)
Ultralight linear springs/0.25" rear spacers (formerly SP080 springs/PP springs)
Steeda bumpstops (formerly cut OEM PP bumpstops)
LCA bearing (first BMR and now Steeda's unit)
FP toe bearing
CB005
32 psi tire pressure
Clocked/reclocked/triple checked any remaining bushings for clocking issues
Alignment

Each piece has either been systematically installed on it's own or removed/reinstalled individually to evaluate it's impact on this bounciness. My conclusions:

-CB005 made no impact whatsoever on the feel of the oscillations. A great mod, and doesn't seem to be adding anything to the bounce.
-Adjustable damper settings: with my setup, oscillations are smallest when the front is at full soft, rear is somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 turns from full soft.
-Airing down to 32 psi made a noticeable improvement.
-Steeda bumpstops feel the same as my OEM stops that I'd cut previously.
-Upper billet shock mounts reduced the bounce by ~50% but didn't cure it.
-At this point, my leading theory is that there's still a slight bind in the articulating LCA/damper system that is preventing the rear shocks from efficiently doing their job.

Overall I'm in a MUCH better place than I was a couple of months ago: initially my bounce was so bad, I was already getting fed up with my brand new car and was hating my drive to the office every day. The above steps have removed maybe 80% of the bounce compared to when I started, but there is still room for improvement and I'm working with Mike to hopefully come up with further ideas here.

Next steps: Mike has recommended I loosen/re-torque my front swaybar bracket mounts just to make sure there isn't an artificial preload there. I've already checked and confirmed the rear bar isn't binding. I'm also going to try airing down to 30 psi to see if this makes an impact. I'll report back with any findings.

Good luck to my fellow bounce club members! :frusty:

Have you tried going up to about 1-1.25 turns from full soft all around?

 

[Jmart]

Have you tried going up to about 1-1.25 turns from full soft all around?

Yes, good point - I should have mentioned that. I have tried just about every possible combination of front/rear damping adjustment possible with this setup. That is actually where I started.

 

[BmacIL]

Yes, good point - I should have mentioned that. I have tried just about every possible combination of front/rear damping adjustment possible with this setup. That is actually where I started.

Have you tried those settings since you put the mounts on?

 

[Jmart]

Yep, sure have. I've tried to remain as systematic as possible with everything. I also have a set route I always take after making a change.

Have you tried those settings since you put the mounts on?

 

[Mootang]

Wow, I've been away from this thread for a couple of days and it's suddenly mirroring my exact experience. I've been discussing my setup with Mike D at Steeda on a near-daily basis for the past month or so in an attempt to diagnose and resolve the bounce we're all describing. Another shout out to [MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION] for such awesome customer service, it's been fantastic! :cheers:

Exactly as Mootang and GTPP seem to experience, I'm getting an annoying latent oscillation during normal city driving. It happens most over small bumps/waviness in the road surface where the load transfer into the suspension is smaller, and seems to be coming from the rear. Over harsher bumps and when hard on the throttle the oscillations go away. Harsh bumps are a quick up/down/done and feel very planted. Aside from the bounce, the car feels great: wheel hop is gone, cornering is excellent, and the car feels much tighter and more predictable.

My car is a 2017 PP with the following:
Pro Action adjustable dampers/Steeda billet shock mounts (formerly PP dampers)
Ultralight linear springs/0.25" rear spacers (formerly SP080 springs/PP springs)
Steeda bumpstops (formerly cut OEM PP bumpstops)
LCA bearing (first BMR and now Steeda's unit)
FP toe bearing
CB005
32 psi tire pressure
Clocked/reclocked/triple checked any remaining bushings for clocking issues
Alignment

Each piece has either been systematically installed on it's own or removed/reinstalled individually to evaluate it's impact on this bounciness. My conclusions:

-CB005 made no impact whatsoever on the feel of the oscillations. A great mod, and doesn't seem to be adding anything to the bounce.
-Adjustable damper settings: with my setup, oscillations are smallest when the front is at full soft, rear is somewhere between 1/4 and 1/2 turns from full soft.
-Airing down to 32 psi made a noticeable improvement.
-Steeda bumpstops feel the same as my OEM stops that I'd cut previously.
-Upper billet shock mounts reduced the bounce by ~50% but didn't cure it.
-At this point, my leading theory is that there's still a slight bind in the articulating LCA/damper system that is preventing the rear shocks from efficiently doing their job.

Overall I'm in a MUCH better place than I was a couple of months ago: initially my bounce was so bad, I was already getting fed up with my brand new car and was hating my drive to the office every day. The above steps have removed maybe 80% of the bounce compared to when I started, but there is still room for improvement and I'm working with Mike to hopefully come up with further ideas here.

Next steps: Mike has recommended I loosen/re-torque my front swaybar bracket mounts just to make sure there isn't an artificial preload there. I've already checked and confirmed the rear bar isn't binding. I'm also going to try airing down to 30 psi to see if this makes an impact. I'll report back with any findings.

Good luck to my fellow bounce club members! :frusty:

Mike D. from Steeda just contacted me. He is awesome and yes, shout out to [MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION] for such awesome customer service also!

His plans for me makes some much more sense and it looks like I have a long weekend ahead of me. Going to start finding the root cause of the bounce first as the Viking dampers may just mask the bounce. So I will eventually have the Viking dampers delivered, but may install them in the end. Going to work with Mike D. on resolving my bounce and finding a solution to the cause first. Will update this thread as I make some progress.

 

[Bluemustang]

I'm seeing a common trend here. Those with LCA bearing installed are not getting rid of the bounce. Even though Jmart has Steeda adjustable shocks - that is not solving it either.

Only thing I can think of is that the rear is oversprung now? Maybe the removal of the LCA bushing is making the spring rate in the rear more effective and the shock can't handle it. This might be one of those things where there is no free lunch.

I'm willing to bet that it is not fixable without much softer springs and shocks or taking the LCA back to stock.

That said, I'm still going to try Mike's suggestion.

 

[jbailer]

[MENTION=27845]Jmart[/MENTION] I'd recommend adjusting the shocks and struts both stiff. I think you'll find the oscillations gone but obviously an uncomfortable ride. Then start in the front, adjust them softer until the bounciness is noticeable, then firm them up a little until no more oscillations. Then repeat for the rear.

I like the way you described it. I think most talk about going over a bump but to me it's more the unseen waviness in the road. I notice it going 40 on back roads or on the highway going 75. The road will look fine and I'm bouncing like I'm riding on springs (no dampening).

Mike D (SteedaTech) @ Steeda is still working with me too, busy man! Although I feel I'm VERY close to the final solution. As others have said, the Steeda billet shock mounts took a good bit of that bounce away, allowing the shocks to articulate without binding but not getting rid of all of it. I can adjust out the bounciness with the Koni dampers but I think the compression isn't correct for the S550. I'll report back too when I get mine finalized.

 

[Mootang]

I have to say that when we all reach a solution, this will be one very valuable thread

 

[MikeyPee]

I have to say that when we all reach a solution, this will be one very valuable thread

+infinity

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