Fix Bouncy Ride

[Bluemustang]

The Steeda adjustable dampers come highly recommended by folks on here. Have not seen one bad review.

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[BmacIL]

Dang, was looking at the Steeda adjustables too. I ended up ordering the Vikings Crusaders Cruise 2-3" ones from BeefCake. Hopefully I am not going to get the famous rattle and noise. If I do, then Steeda adjustable dampers are next on the list lol.

If you don't have a quality issue, you'll really like the Vikings. They are double adjustable, so you can play with compression and rebound damping. Kelly [MENTION=9985]BMR Tech[/MENTION] can give you a good place to start.

Otherwise, if you do have issues, the Steedas work very well and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them to anyone.

 

[Mootang]

If you don't have a quality issue, you'll really like the Vikings. They are double adjustable, so you can play with compression and rebound damping. Kelly [MENTION=9985]BMR Tech[/MENTION] can give you a good place to start.

Otherwise, if you do have issues, the Steedas work very well and I wouldn't hesitate to recommend them to anyone.

Quality issue as in how it's built? I'm regretting a little now with the Vikings lol.

 

[BMR Tech]

It's not so much a quality issue, as it is the fact that the motion under shock travel range is not true - which can occasionally clash with Viking's low deflection design. This is due to the Viking Shocks using a high durometer bushing on the lower mount.

They are revising the bushing durometer, using a new special grease AND they will be offering an upper shock bearing in the future.

I like the ride and performance of the Vikings and I do not have any noise issues with mine.

 

[BmacIL]

It's not so much a quality issue, as it is the fact that the motion under shock travel range is not true - which can occasionally clash with Viking's low deflection design. This is due to the Viking Shocks using a high durometer bushing on the lower mount.

They are revising the bushing durometer, using a new special grease AND they will be offering an upper shock bearing in the future.

I like the ride and performance of the Vikings and I do not have any noise issues with mine.

I have a strong feeling that a bearing upper mount might reduce the noise coming from the high durometer lower mount. Hunch...

 

[Mootang]

Do you know what the rear spring rates are, and are they in the stock location?

So I just called Roush before they close for the day. I tried asking for just the dampers off their triple adjustable kit, but they can't separate it. I then got transferred to their tech guy and asked about the spring rates. They said their engineers will not give that information out and he doesn't even know it. Looks like they are pretty secretive about that.

The Steeda adjustable dampers come highly recommended by folks on here. Have not seen one bad review.

I am looking at it really hard right now, but already pulled the trigger on the Vikings this morning. Wish my impulsive a$$ would have waited a little longer lol.

It's not so much a quality issue, as it is the fact that the motion under shock travel range is not true - which can occasionally clash with Viking's low deflection design. This is due to the Viking Shocks using a high durometer bushing on the lower mount.

They are revising the bushing durometer, using a new special grease AND they will be offering an upper shock bearing in the future.

I like the ride and performance of the Vikings and I do not have any noise issues with mine.

Kelly, I am crossing my fingers really hard and seeing it crossed in ways I never seen it before. I hope I get no rattling or loud noises like you, however, I do have a loud Borla Type S exhaust that will negate it. I thought Viking was finished with revisions, but didn't know they are still at it. Makes me want to go Steeda route a little more. I did purchase the Steeda shock mounts for the Vikings, do you think this will help or provide some additional benefits?

I ended up getting the Viking Crusader Cruise 2-3" ones and with all the stiff suspension upgrades and no track time anytime soon, did I chose the correct one or should've I gotten the Viking Crusader Pro Turning?

Feel like after all this trouble, I might as way have went with a KW adjustable setup and switch out the Roush ones lol.

 

[Mootang]

[MENTION=23003]dope[/MENTION], sorry OP, I hijacked your thread. I too am still getting the bounciness in my ride. It's getting annoying now....

 

[BmacIL]

So I just called Roush before they close for the day. I tried asking for just the dampers off their triple adjustable kit, but they can't separate it. I then got transferred to their tech guy and asked about the spring rates. They said their engineers will not give that information out and he doesn't even know it. Looks like they are pretty secretive about that.



I am looking at it really hard right now, but already pulled the trigger on the Vikings this morning. Wish my impulsive a$$ would have waited a little longer lol.



Kelly, I am crossing my fingers really hard and seeing it crossed in ways I never seen it before. I hope I get no rattling or loud noises like you, however, I do have a loud Borla Type S exhaust that will negate it. I thought Viking was finished with revisions, but didn't know they are still at it. Makes me want to go Steeda route a little more. I did purchase the Steeda shock mounts for the Vikings, do you think this will help or provide some additional benefits?

I ended up getting the Viking Crusader Cruise 2-3" ones and with all the stiff suspension upgrades and no track time anytime soon, did I chose the correct one or should've I gotten the Viking Crusader Pro Turning?

Feel like after all this trouble, I might as way have went with a KW adjustable setup and switch out the Roush ones lol.

LOL I would take those springs off my car just based on that. When you have companies like BMR, Steeda, Swift, Ground Control, etc that have no problem publishing their rates, I would never go anywhere else. Pro tip: it's not the rate by itself that makes something special guys...that's super easy for someone to test and replicate.

 

[Mootang]

LOL I would take those springs off my car just based on that. When you have companies like BMR, Steeda, Swift, Ground Control, etc that have no problem publishing their rates, I would never go anywhere else. Pro tip: it's not the rate by itself that makes something special guys...that's super easy for someone to test and replicate.

Righttttttt! I am new to Mustangs and thought Roush was the way to go. If I could start over, I would've went with a Whipple SC and a bunch of BMR and Steeda stuff right off the bat. Or just get a full adjustable KW suspension and call it a day like Gibbo205.

 

[tj@steeda]

Happy to help if you have any questions ... you can email me at [email protected] or give us a ring at 1800 950 0774!

Best Regards,

TJ

 

[Mootang]

Happy to help if you have any questions ... you can email me at [email protected] or give us a ring at 1800 950 0774!

Best Regards,

TJ

A SteedaTech just PM'ed me a little bit ago lol.

 

[Bluemustang]

Today I had a great conversation with Mike D. [MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION] about my current setup and ways of reducing the bounce. I originally inquired about the new Steeda coilovers which look quite impressive! But he took the time to compare my setup with the coilovers using actual data and he gave me some advice on ways to reduce the bounce. He said he actually thought my setup was good and he suggested some simple ways of improving it.

1. Trimming my rear bumpstop slightly. He says the Ford Racing ones aren't even trimmed as much as they should be and this should help the bounce.

2. Is the Steeda shock mounts - which I was already going to get anyway.

Really I think these two things will make a good bit of difference, and I've already got a good setup that isn't too harsh to drive in except on rarer occasions. The trick is also making sure the tire pressure is right.

3. If #2 & #3 don't eliminate it or eliminate it 90%, then I will buy Steeda adjustable shocks which Mike says are a bit easier in the compression area.

I have a lot of IRS parts and essentially have an overhauled suspension so - stiffening parts in the rear will increase NVH to a large degree. The rear feel is dramatically different to stock. I can feel the rear tires before they're about to lose grip and I can feel the camber taking its effect in a corner. Everything is much responsive. But harsh roads will exaggerate the car's reaction times and will experience harshness. I think reducing bind is the key in ridding the bounce. The energy eventually has to go somewhere- to a remaining bushing and the bounce that was there when stock but wasn't as noticeable, is now noticeable. Removing the artificial spring rate from factory bushings causes the real spring rate to be more dominant. I think this causes the car to bounce up more when it encounters a change or bump, and so to deal with that I need to help the damper to work more effectively. So I need to reduce binding in the suspension and allow a little more suspension travel. I've already reduced bind with the LCA bearing but now it's moved to the next least common denominator, the shock mount.

I really think these two things - checking the bumpstops and doing the shock mount will help a lot. But anyway had a great conversation with Mike and he gave me a lot of useful information. He was more focused on what I wanted rather than what he could sell me. I really appreciate your advice Mike.

Everyday I understand more about this suspension and how it works- driving the car- understanding why it does what it does. It went from a project to a nightmare almost, to a thing that is really fun now. Learning about all of this stuff is really fun and I wish I learned more earlier. It's great that we have some get users on this forum as well as great vendors like Steeda BMR and many many others. I'm pretty close to being where I want and I think a few tweaks and I can improve it more.

 

[Mootang]

Today I had a great conversation with Mike D. [MENTION=25806]SteedaTech[/MENTION] about my current setup and ways of reducing the bounce. I originally inquired about the new Steeda coilovers which look quite impressive! But he took the time to compare my setup with the coilovers using actual data and he gave me some advice on ways to reduce the bounce. He said he actually thought my setup was good and he suggested some simple ways of improving it.

1. Trimming my rear bumpstop slightly. He says the Ford Racing ones aren't even trimmed as much as they should be and this should help the bounce.

2. Is the Steeda shock mounts - which I was already going to get anyway.

Really I think these two things will make a good bit of difference, and I've already got a good setup that isn't too harsh to drive in except on rarer occasions. The trick is also making sure the tire pressure is right.

3. If #2 & #3 don't eliminate it or eliminate it 90%, then I will buy Steeda adjustable shocks which Mike says are a bit easier in the compression area.

I have a lot of IRS parts and essentially have an overhauled suspension so - stiffening parts in the rear will increase NVH to a large degree. The rear feel is dramatically different to stock. I can feel the rear tires before they're about to lose grip and I can feel the camber taking its effect in a corner. Everything is much responsive. But harsh roads will exaggerate the car's reaction times and will experience harshness. I think reducing bind is the key in ridding the bounce. The energy eventually has to go somewhere- to a remaining bushing and the bounce that was there when stock but wasn't as noticeable, is now noticeable. Removing the artificial spring rate from factory bushings causes the real spring rate to be more dominant. I think this causes the car to bounce up more when it encounters a change or bump, and so to deal with that I need to help the damper to work more effectively. So I need to reduce binding in the suspension and allow a little more suspension travel. I've already reduced bind with the LCA bearing but now it's moved to the next least common denominator, the shock mount.

I really think these two things - checking the bumpstops and doing the shock mount will help a lot. But anyway had a great conversation with Mike and he gave me a lot of useful information. He was more focused on what I wanted rather than what he could sell me. I really appreciate your advice Mike.

Everyday I understand more about this suspension and how it works- driving the car- understanding why it does what it does. It went from a project to a nightmare almost, to a thing that is really fun now. Learning about all of this stuff is really fun and I wish I learned more earlier. It's great that we have some get users on this forum as well as great vendors like Steeda BMR and many many others. I'm pretty close to being where I want and I think a few tweaks and I can improve it more.

Funny, Mike D. contacted me earlier this morning too. Except, I am 3 hours behind his time and missed his call as I drive to work at 7AM in the morning lol. I called back and left a message, but his voicemail state that my bouncy ride may not be solved with new adjustable dampers.

I am hoping to talk to him too and after reading your review, I too agree about the NVH increase. Only thing is, I have almost no more rubber bushings in the rear except for the IRS subframe and differential. Those also have the Steeda subframe lockouts and the red bushings from Steeda. So I am wondering with all the stiffness and the bounce having to go somewhere, only thing I can think of is the coils or the dampers. My bounce feels like I have no dampers and riding on just springs, so I am still headstrong about adjustable dampers being my solution. I can update later when I talk to Mike D. (maybe tomorrow?).

How much upgrades did you do back there? My list is below reflecting only what I think is inducing more bounce:

ARP Wheel Studs Extended
BMR LCA Bearing
DDS Carbon Fiber Driveshaft
Eibach Front and Rear Sway Bars
FRPP Halfshafts and Knuckle to Toe Link Bearing
Roush Single Adjustable (Ride Height Only) Coilovers
Steeda Rear Adjustable Camber Arms
Steeda Rear Adjustable Toe Arms
Steeda Rear Differential Bushings (Red ones for now)
Steeda Rear Shock Mounts (for Roush Coilovers)
Steeda Rear Subframe Braces (and front K brace bar)
Steeda Rear Subframe Bushing Lockouts
Steeda Rear Vertical Links
Whiteline Front and Rear Adjustable Endlinks

Wheels are 20" and 35 PSI all around (yes I lowered to 33, 32, and 28 PSI with no differences).

 

[BmacIL]

Funny, Mike D. contacted me earlier this morning too. Except, I am 3 hours behind his time and missed his call as I drive to work at 7AM in the morning lol. I called back and left a message, but his voicemail state that my bouncy ride may not be solved with new adjustable dampers.

I am hoping to talk to him too and after reading your review, I too agree about the NVH increase. Only thing is, I have almost no more rubber bushings in the rear except for the IRS subframe and differential. Those also have the Steeda subframe lockouts and the red bushings from Steeda. So I am wondering with all the stiffness and the bounce having to go somewhere, only thing I can think of is the coils or the dampers. My bounce feels like I have no dampers and riding on just springs, so I am still headstrong about adjustable dampers being my solution. I can update later when I talk to Mike D. (maybe tomorrow?).

How much upgrades did you do back there? My list is below reflecting only what I think is inducing more bounce:

ARP Wheel Studs Extended
BMR LCA Bearing
DDS Carbon Fiber Driveshaft
Eibach Front and Rear Sway Bars
FRPP Halfshafts and Knuckle to Toe Link Bearing
Roush Single Adjustable (Ride Height Only) Coilovers
Steeda Rear Adjustable Camber Arms
Steeda Rear Adjustable Toe Arms
Steeda Rear Differential Bushings (Red ones for now)
Steeda Rear Subframe Braces (and front K brace bar)
Steeda Rear Subframe Bushing Lockouts
Steeda Rear Vertical Links
Whiteline Front and Rear Adjustable Endlinks

The mounts will definitely help. They let the dampers actually work, particularly if they're firm dampers.

 

[Mootang]

The mounts will definitely help. They let the dampers actually work, particularly if they're firm dampers.

Yea, I forgot to include that also, those are already installed a few days ago lol. Bounce is still there and the mounts lessen it by about 30%. The bounce is annoying. I don't mind bumps or harshness like a lower car will feel like. Meaning feeling all the little bumps on the road is not an issue. It is the bounce that I hate where I look like I am on a trampoline in my seat if someone were to look at me driving. Passengers and I feel like I am in a fun house all the time, but I have to say, I have no more wheel hop and the power is planted extremely well under WOT.

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