First track day

[stoli]

You never can with a daily driver than gets driven hard at the track. There must be a cross over pad out there that will do both.

I daily drove my G-LOC R10 and R12 pads without issue. The problem becomes cost. Combining dd and track days and the R12s were done after just 4 events. Changing them out before and after each event I can get 6(ish) events out of set of front pads. I don't bother changing the rears.

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[spiller]

I daily drove my G-LOC R10 and R12 pads without issue. The problem becomes cost. Combining dd and track days and the R12s were done after just 4 events. Changing them out before and after each event I can get 6(ish) events out of set of front pads. I don't bother changing the rears.

What constitutes an event for you? I do supersprints which are only comprised of about 30 laps of a 3km road course per event so they should stretch out nicely. You guys track the heck out of your cars in the states, I love it

I'm new to Mustangs, what are your thoughts on the G-LOC pads? Differences between R10 and 12? Any excessive squealing or bad rotor wear from running them on the street at lower temps?

Thanks!

 

[stoli]

What constitutes an event for you? I do supersprints which are only comprised of about 30 laps of a 3km road course per event so they should stretch out nicely. You guys track the heck out of your cars in the states, I love it

I'm new to Mustangs, what are your thoughts on the G-LOC pads? Differences between R10 and 12? Any excessive squealing or bad rotor wear from running them on the street at lower temps?

Thanks!

My typical track day is 2-3 hours of track time. They definitely make noise at certain temperature ranges. Most people think I need new brakes when I pull into a parking lot.

If you are only doing brief runs like that I'd definitely be changing each time. There's no point wasting a $300 race/track compound pad on the street when you could swap them out and have them last a season or more.

I'm pleased with the G-LOC, but they are all I have tried so I really have nothing to compare them too other than stock. Tim @ [MENTION=22413]Optimum Performance[/MENTION] can shed some better light on the compound differences..

 

[wildcatgoal]

I did my first track day last year while my car was still bone stock, and everything on the car was easily up to the task. The weakest link was the part directly behind the steering wheel.

I have that same problem... :lol::lol:

 

[spiller]

My typical track day is 2-3 hours of track time. They definitely make noise at certain temperature ranges. Most people think I need new brakes when I pull into a parking lot.

If you are only doing brief runs like that I'd definitely be changing each time. There's no point wasting a $300 race/track compound pad on the street when you could swap them out and have them last a season or more.

I'm pleased with the G-LOC, but they are all I have tried so I really have nothing to compare them too other than stock. Tim @ [MENTION=22413]Optimum Performance[/MENTION] can shed some better light on the compound differences..

I don't mind a bit of squealing when coming to a stop. I had a bad experience with some pads on an evo once which sounded like a freight train rolling by. I see your point about swapping, you mentioned you just leave the race pads in the rear on the street, figures because they're hardly doing any work on the rear at street speeds? I will speak to Optimum about the compounds, thanks for the lead!

 

[wildcatgoal]

I take the track pads off because they all dust like a somabich and I absolutely HATE cleaning wheels any more than I need to. Don't mind doing brake work, though, and getting myself covered in car grime. Makes no sense really. But forces you to take the wheel off and clean it right and dandy.

 

[Grintch]

If you are confident enough to push the car, come prepared to rotate the tires if the track is harder on one side or tire than the rest.

More camber should be near the top of the list for making the car better on track, but it's not mandatory for your first event. The stock pads do work impresively well on track.

 

[wildcatgoal]

Speaking tires, worth getting one of those laser temp sensors. I used one for the first time, found my camber settings made for some even temps except one tire at AMP was much cooler than the rest. Tells you what tires get the most hate, at least.

 

[Grafanton]

My best advice for your first track day: GO!

An instructor may help maximize your on track time.
Once the mush between your ears has maxed out your lap time, make small mods to the car, such as brake fluid and pads, more negative camber and tires.

 

[chedder]

FYI you must run similar tires all the way around. No exceptions. Senior Instructor PCA/BMW

 

[M3Convert]

FYI you must run similar tires all the way around. No exceptions. Senior Instructor PCA/BMW

how similar is similar? same make and model?

 

[NightmareMoon]

I daily drove my G-LOC R10 and R12 pads without issue. The problem becomes cost. Combining dd and track days and the R12s were done after just 4 events. Changing them out before and after each event I can get 6(ish) events out of set of front pads. I don't bother changing the rears.

Man my R12/R10 pads are extremely annoyingly noisy and very dusty. I tried to DD them but gave up after a week of punishment. I just can't handle the squealing. I understand some people don't have that issue, but I tried everything. Resurfaced the rotors, and anti-squeak grease on the pad backs.

Stock pads I was getting fade on track, so I haven't found the unicorn pad yet, and I'm not sure it exists.

 

[stoli]

Man my R12/R10 pads are extremely annoyingly noisy and very dusty. I tried to DD them but gave up after a week of punishment. I just can't handle the squealing. I understand some people don't have that issue, but I tried everything. Resurfaced the rotors, and anti-squeak grease on the pad backs.

Stock pads I was getting fade on track, so I haven't found the unicorn pad yet, and I'm not sure it exists.

Don't get me wrong - even when I only have the R10's in the rear they squeal and dust pretty bad. I can hear them just driving down the road, let alone in a parking lot. I just tolerate it.

 

[Optimum Performance]

You never can with a daily driver than gets driven hard at the track. There must be a cross over pad out there that will do both.

No such thing. Anyone tells you different is not being truthful. You can not have low dust, low noise and high temperature range pads in one compound.

If this is your first event, reflush your brake fluid and do your event if you are on stock tires/suspension. Do not throw parts at it yet. Find the driver/ cars limits and then proceed from there. I'm a late braker and ran multiple events with the car bone stock. I still run the stock fluid with cooling and mild track compounds. I intentionally forced the OE pads into fade and they would recover with a cool lap.

I run G-LOC R10/R8's They make some noise and dust but compared to the OE pads they are so much more manageable on track. You can change your braking points and will have the same feel lap after lap. For me the tires end up spiking in pressure and loose grip under braking. The brake dust also washes off very easily, G-LOC's do not etch into the wheels like the OE pads. Ferodo(OE Front) uses Siloxanes in their pads to improve high temperature performance. It is a low cost product that works but it will etch into everything. G-LOC's have a very wide temp range.

G-LOC's tend to be very easy on rotors compared to some other lower cost competitors that will machine the rotors as they work. This is why you will find comments about people complaining about certain brands that ruined their paint. The pad compound is not the cause of this, the compound removes rotor material at high temperatures and it melts into the paint. That brand of pad works, does not have much modulation, will run on any type of rotor surface or finish and will work on track.

G-LOC's main philosophy has always been modulation, you can adjust through a braking zone or corner exit and make corrections. They are very linear that way. Some of the other pads are more like on off switches.

G-LOCs tend to be a very good value, if used properly they will perform very well. We are proud to say we are G-LOC's #1 Mustang Pad Dealer. We are in constant contact with our Customers so we always learn something from their personal experience and have built a very helpful data base of what works for Customers at all levels of Skill and Equipment.

G-LOC is grass-roots racer driven. They are always at an event supporting the sport. When you call G-LOC you typically will talk to the President, Danny. His Brother Chris, a pro ranked driver is busy overseeing production. This is all they do, they are a small Company making dedicated track pads. Not an off-shoot of a massive Corporation marketing a product to racers who run a decal to get free pads.

Let us know how your event goes and feel free to contact us directly for any questions or recommendations.

 

[spiller]

[MENTION=22413]Optimum Performance[/MENTION], I appreciate the advice. I'm not going to bother tracking the car in stock form. Been there, done that with other cars and it doesn't end well. I've done enough track time in a variety of cars (most recently a heavily modified 996 GT3 at basically cup car spec) to the point where I'm able to exceed the limits of OE equipment fairly early on. Chunking tyres, pads that smoke like an F1 car due to heat...I'll just keep that gear for the street. I've already thrown a bunch of suspension mods into the mix and just ordered a set of apex ec-7 and will run r-comps (I need to talk to you about studs and spacers btw) so I'm on board! Might as well throw pads into the equation. Plus the circuit im at is only 1.8 miles with three consecutive heavy stops from 100-125 down to 30 mph so I'm not going to chance it on the OE stuff.

PM coming your way shortly

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