Engine Tick (I know, another thread) and Mileage

[GT Pony]

Well, isn't that exactly what oil does??? Ha ha. And it's not 1, but TWO bottles needed; it's 1 for every 5 quarts. Testimonials I read were with 2 bottles. And you could make molasses out of your oil with that amount if you really wanted to . If the engine makes more noise after an oil change, or quiets down, it's due to a viscosity change; no question about that. The only question is how much of a change was it. Same thing with Ceratec. They don't call it 'snake oil' for nothing. Ha ha.

Not all oil has the same friction level, depending on what friction modifiers, and how much (ppm) are in the add pack. And if you read up on Ceratec, it's a friction modifier.

Lot's of guys get rid of the BBQ tick (not the 2K RPM rattle) by using only 1 bottle of Cetatec. There have been a few guys who only used 1/3 to 1/2 bottle and it cured the ticking.

If you read the 100s of threads about the ticking, it's evident that it's not typically cured by thicker oil, so it is not just a function of viscosity. If it was, everyone who used a thicker oil would report no ticking with 30, 40 or 50 wt oil. But that's not a sure cure. Changing the friction between the moving parts seems to be the cure. There was a reason Ford field engineers recommended using the Motorcraft XL-17 (mainly carbon black) friction modifier additive to cure the ticking in the early days of the Coyote BBQ tick.

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[Elp_jc]

I get what you're saying, but you're only repeating what the manufacturer says. I want proof it's not altering the viscosity of the oil . And that's not diluting, or doing any other negative changes to the oil, including the additive package. And then I might change my mind about it, depending what's reported. But those who swear by it, why not put it to the test, and post results? I don't get it. You can't just trust what you see advertised on TV; you can put whatever you want. Otherwise, we all be using K&N filters in our cars, because they say filter better than paper ones (an absolute and flat-out lie).

 

[GT Pony]

I get what you're saying, but you're only repeating what the manufacturer says. I want proof it's not altering the viscosity of the oil . And that's not diluting, or doing any other negative changes to the oil, including the additive package. And then I might change my mind about it, depending what's reported. But those who swear by it, why not put it to the test, and post results? I don't get it. You can't just trust what you see advertised on TV; you can put whatever you want. Otherwise, we all be using K&N filters in our cars, because they say filter better than paper ones (an absolute and flat-out lie).

You think LiquiMoly would still be in business after making all their stuff for decades if it harmed all the vehicles that used it?

If you're so concerned, then maybe you could pay someone here to send in their used oil with Ceratec in it to see what the UOA says. Or maybe search YouTube to see if anyone has done that and reported their findings. Or you could just forget about it all together and worry about something else.

 

[GMONSTAH]

Mine started doing it after the first oil change (so, around 6Kish miles). Thing is, it's very intermittent. Like: tick.........tick tick.............................................tick............................tick. It's pretty easy to ignore. Of all noises engines make, this one is pretty tame and doesn't bother me at all. Not like I spend a lot of time idling...

I just ignore it, I have the 2K rattle and it kinda sounds like a diesel at times idling as well. 3 dealers, all said, "normal". Still runs like a raped ape.

I got the Ford Extended Service contract, so I should be good for 6 years/125K miles, so I don't really care. Chances of me keeping it that long are pretty low too.

 

[Elp_jc]

You think LiquiMoly would still be in business after making all their stuff for decades if it harmed all the vehicles that used it?

Who the hell said it 'harmed' anything? Geez. Read my posts again. But basically yeah, lots of companies are still in business due to questionable marketing, like K&N, for example. Their racing filters (which are pretty good for racing, actually), filter for crap for street engines, and still tons of people buy them because they don't know any better. Same thing with those additives; they don't call them 'snake oil' for nothing (and no, I didn't invent that word). So yes, I'm skeptical. And no, if the guys using it just drank the marketing cool-aid, and didn't do an oil analysis to see what they were getting into their expensive engines, I would never pay a penny to them. No offense . Not getting anywhere here, so I'm out of this discussion.

 

[308 Cal. Bullitt]

So what do you suggest to do mr.bullit ? Most dealership act innocent and think your crazy when you bring your car under 10k miles for valvetrain noise, its really minor

So what do you suggest to do mr.bullit ? Most dealership act innocent and think your crazy when you bring your car under 10k miles for valvetrain noise, its really minor and you have to listen for it

^^^^
U want an answer??
or just being sarcastic???
#2 appears the clear answer.

Cuz having a bit of experience can actually give way to real world solutions.
Pounding this guy over an additive choice,
and inflating every fact, including costs,
just shows your much more interested in causing problems, then sincerely looking to help anyone w/& for a solution.

So with that being the case here, w/your poor attitude and slight of hand hostility, your question to US, does not deserve to be dignified with a legitimate answer.

As ur sarcastic, 3 stooges type demeanor, isnt helping anyone, but perhaps, your own ego.
Putting people down, clearly makes you feel much more manly it seems..a pattern even?
& btw, Did we get the "gender clarity" correct for the record, on the "manly", grammar adjective ?

Clearly not very polite way to get a viable answer, but Id suspect that you already know that???

Have you ever tried being constructive, or are you just angry at everyone who has a car?
a bullitt? or a life, in general??

If thats how u respond to everyone asking for help. As you did regarding the additive idea.
Then we suspect u dont want a solution.
As you so not politely responded to anyone here,
yet just want to be sarcastic and rude, by using defamation techniques, a child on a playground would throw around during a tantrum.

People who want solutions hav some sincerity to there response, not just sarcasm.

Good luck and hav a great day.
Clearly not many
( good days)
come your way, judging by your oozing of charismatic personality.

& yes, its " Mr ", too you. Haha !!@!@@!!
Got that part correct.

Proving even yourself, like the broke clock,
is right two times a day.
& just once, if its a digital, referencing am/pm.
Lmbo

If anyone wants to know how to best deal with this issue, pm us, and we can give you
""Real World Advice,"" on this matter,
from real experience.
Not saying we can gurantee a fix, but rather just advice, from more than just
"another bbq tick"
posting that people may be forced to use as salvation to a legit issue.

& w/added sarcastic remarks, my angry friend, you are of no help, or added value, like above, in a few places u posted before coming after us.

Peeps are likely forced to endure these "tick" posts, in order to glean there strategies for attempting to correct a common problem,
on all type of variable valve train engines...
not just 308" Mustangs.
Or 302" - 1s, for that matter.

And without having to PM us,
Heres your tip u adked for gelio,
Using thicker viscosity lubricants,
& or, additional additives to improve PSI SHEAR qualities, like Prolong, or as far bk as 50 yrs ago. STP, & Later, products like "motor honey",
although it may "SOUND" plausible....
possibly sound plausible..
from say, a 'minds eye', point of view...
The internal gut fedling we get that makes us act on pre-conceived, subconscious mind programming, based on similar, ( in this case, fluid dynamics) experience's, in our everyday lives, often unrelated to engine technology, entirely. Pre-conceived notions from other experiences are at best, a rather poor way to solve a problem.

Yet in are minds, most all of us, (again myself included @times)
typically go in that direction of thought.

( qwik summary injected @this point to be digested.... & it being:
if we have an eng "tick,", our minds eye tends to think of it more like a knock...
Thus, wanting to use thicker viscosity oils, that we "rhink" will help this problem.. it wont..
not on a VVT TICK. TOTALLY DIFF THAN A KNOCK THAT BENIFITS FROM THICKER OIL)

So, that heavier wt lubricant is only a true solution, if the "tick", is actually a "knock."

Which we ALL KNOW IT IS NOT. & its not.
Yet, our mind gravitates to a solution we all known about for ever, that thicker oil reduces eng noise. Yes, in general, it can, in "
PRE-CAM PHASER" engine technology days.

Honda wasn't just the 1st variable valve timing eng design, but likely 1 of, if not the best.
Wd hav a close colleague who is considered the premier Honda expert on cyl heads for there power plants. He is so much so an expert, he is the only individual on the planet who actually spent $100,000 of dollars of his own bank acvount, to cast the only aftermarket cyl heads, ever, for a Honda. Which again, is the premier VVT engine design. So we also have trusted colleagues who are all too familiar w/these issues.

So as human beings, w/some knowledge of Combustion engines, we tend to use what we know to be fact..
makes sense..
the danger in that, comes by way of the idea of us using 'preconceived notions', from past experience, or generally accepted knowledge, for all to have learned from nearly childhood w/a minibike, or as a teenager helping the neighbor work on his 69 mach 1..
As for how we ALL LEARNED to handle a knock, which was CERTAINLY the predecessor to the TICKS, of today's OHC Engs. Period..

( cuz we didnt hav VVT bk yrs ago, so 90% of all eng noise was either a collapsed hydraulic lifter on a pushrod eng, or some sort of actual knocking, which again, the go too patch up solution was thicker oil viscosity's)

So for decades, to glean our own solutions, modtly from knocks, as the primary eng noise we heard from days of the past..

Fast forward to a newer problem, thats of a completely different orig and mechanical problem, than, say, an engine knock..
Yes, u guessed it, ☆THE TICK☆...

Sometimes I myself, daily even, can revert to preconceived notions to help resolve problems.

its imperative we not use these notions, in our minds, without hard and fast facts, based in reality and real world experience.
We must use 'fact based resolutions',
towards solutions.
Very imperative.
It may, @ best, only temporarily mask a tick.

A thicker viscosity oil or additives.
Think about what parts in your DOHC valve train can or could TICK 1ST.
Then think about how they work. And how the VVT IS CONTROLLING THINGS..
How it uses oil pressure, to vary the system, which can then be effectively disturbed, down the line, to other near by components of the valve train.

Forget from the pistons, downward, into the engine block, for locating the tick, and solving it.
Yes. If the tick was from a rod, wrist pin, or crankshaft journal main surface, the heavier viscosity idea might very well hold water.

Can we at least all agree, right now, the tick is from the cyl head upward, and possibly somewhat tied to what drives the 4 cam shafts, and related parts to the valve train???
Yes or no. If yes, we can move forward.
If you think no, uts coming from down in my eng block rotaing assembly components, than we may as well stop here. Cuz if u think that, we are all wasting our time talking about this issue.



As it is (any increased viscosity concoction)
Is actually the total opposite direction, for valvetrain train cam phaser noises, as the actual means & direction, to look for and towards, the solution too it. The ticking that is.

There's ur answer mr gelio, so u got what u came for, no PM required from U. !@!@!

For others, who sincerely want some reasonably sound advice, based on real world experience,
& over 3 decades of studying lubricants and there impacts on both non "variable valve timing engs", and as of the past few yrs, on VVT engines as well, be glad to oblige.

if u decide u want a bit of help based on using real life situations, real world experience, regarding a problem Ford has been plagued w/for many yrs now, long before Mustangs were an issue of VVT ticks, but other Ford OHC mills did in fact have these VERY SAME ISSUES.
So we can use several yrs of collective exp. on this topic, for those who need some ideas on how to reckon w/wrestle this Clearly somewhat common thorn.

Again, u can PM us. Im not going to spend the time to do it all here, only to be smart azz'd by critics who have no clue, would love to know some answers, but cannot even be remotely civil or 1/2azz polite about an answer, to this
plague-ing question among late model Stang owners.

Regards,
Ur mr bullitt

 

[m3incorp]

Wow!!

 

[schmeky]

I wonder why no one has ever posted any info or pics on the high pressure fuel system mechanics? I am doing a full build on a 2109 5.0 engine and it looks pretty obvious to me why there can be a tick in this system. From my observations, it can do no harm.

It's not rocket science.

 

[GT Pony]

I wonder why no one has ever posted any info or pics on the high pressure fuel system mechanics? I am doing a full build on a 2109 5.0 engine and it looks pretty obvious to me why there can be a tick in this system. From my observations, it can do no harm.

It's not rocket science.

There's a difference between the BBQ Tick and the 2~2.3K rattle. The BBQ Tick has been around since 2011 ... way before the high pressure DI fuel pump in the Gen2 Coyote (2018+).

 

[schmeky]

^^ I'm aware of that ^^

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