I am not sure which setting you are referring to but here is a screen shot of my flare tool when hooked to the car. I did question why the timing block is -.1. Is that normal? I didn't change it at all.I understand but this is controlled by wide bands therefore it does not very like this. Therefore the reading is inaccurate. He has more than enough fuel. Issue is either airflow or spark. My guess is spark as the curve looks like the octane switch is toggled on.
3 pulls were done. The 621 was on the 2nd pull. The third pull was lower than 621. The pulls were done in 5th gear.I can guarantee air fuel is not correct reading. Tailpipe sniffer is almost worthless, it's rarely accurate, especially with cats.
Power in general is down, not sure what gear and how many pulls you made as power is best on 2nd and 3rd pulls.
Octane is critical, Shell, Chevron, Sunoco.....
Always turn knock limiting off in flight control.
Did somebody flip the octane switch to on? A few do that but it's surely not needed, especially with 93.
That is pretty normal from what I have seen with the whipple setups but I am not sure why. Maybe they designed them that way to keep from hurting parts and making it overall safer in a street car?Why are the TQ numbers so low ?
Not sure if I missed this or not but are you an auto?3 pulls were done. The 621 was on the 2nd pull. The third pull was lower than 621. I believe the pulls were done in 4th gear.
Takes a lot to turn the bigger blower, which is the 2.3 VMP and Roush usually make more torque. At least that's how it was explained to me and how I understand it. I am sure Dustin can provide a clearer explanation.That is pretty normal from what I have seen with the whipple setups but I am not sure why. Maybe they designed them that way to keep from hurting parts and making it overall safer in a street car?
Manual car. I watched the video and it does appear that it was done in 5th as I can count the gear changes as he is getting it up to speed.Not sure if I missed this or not but are you an auto?
@whipplesc should knock limiting always be off or are you referring to just on the dyno? I have not looked at my settings in a bit but just wanted to get clarification.
Mike
Okay cause auto should be dynoed in 4th not manual that's why I asked. Are you running a 3.75 or 3.625?Manual car. I watched the video and it does appear that it was done in 5th as I can count the gear changes as he is getting it up to speed.
Yeah I was wrong, it was 5th after watching the video. 3.75 pulley. This is also with stock exhaust manifolds.Okay cause auto should be dynoed in 4th not manual that's why I asked. Are you running a 3.75 or 3.625?
I only have the resonator delete and Axelbacks. I made 652/498 on my 3.75, 58# injectors. It was 80 degrees with 60% humidity when I went.Yeah I was wrong, it was 5th after watching the video. 3.75 pulley. This is also with stock exhaust manifolds.
I think with cooler temps and if the dyno operator had taken it to redline like I told him to I think it would have been up in that territory. It was still making power when he shut it down at 7250.I only have the resonator delete and Axelbacks. I made 652/498 on my 3.75, 58# injectors. It was 80 degrees with 60% humidity when I went.