DW 400 415 LPH Fuel pump

[jloshotz]

Hey all, Just picked up a DW400 415 lph, and was going to replace my stock pump with this one. I have zero fuel system mods, and was just wanting to replace my fuel pump as a “piece of mind” kinda thing. Can anyone who runs one tell me if there are any downsides to using this pump over an OEM pump? I notice a lot of guys running a whipple like to use this pump….my setup is purely stock, only small mods are a CAI and the PCV catch cans. So yeah……basically bone stock. Any pros, cons, problems any have had? Would this pump REQUIRE voltage boosting? Any advice would be appreciated, especially if supporting fuel system mods would be needed. Not planning on any huge mods in at least the near future…….thanks all

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[NGOT8R]

There are no downsides to it, other than possible hard starts when the engine is hot if you have one of the older DW400 pumps without the check valve in it. However, you have two options, you can send it back to Deatschwerks to have them instsll one free of charge, or you can buy one of their inline check valves, cut the factory fuel line, install push lock fittings, clamp them to the fuel line and plug it inline. See more info on that here.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...e-install-fix-for-hot-start-up-issues.195003/

More info on my factory pump failure.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...pump-2019-bullitt-on-e85.189945/#post-3814506

 

[NGOT8R]

No voltage boosting needed with the DW400 for what you’re doing.

 

[jloshotz]

Excellent, was hoping to hear this

 

[jloshotz]

I’ve heard some mention of earlier pumps not having a check valve, is it pretty obvious just to look at the pump? Or is it a date code thing? I purchased it (haven’t received it yet) brand new in the box for a seller on feebay……thanks again for anyone who wants to chime in

 

[engineermike]

There is no reason to do this upgrade. The stock pump flows extremely well and will support a lot more most think.

 

[NGOT8R]

I’ve heard some mention of earlier pumps not having a check valve, is it pretty obvious just to look at the pump? Or is it a date code thing? I purchased it (haven’t received it yet) brand new in the box for a seller on feebay……thanks again for anyone who wants to chime in

I’m not sure, but it may be worth calling DeatschWerks to see if they can tell you how to identify a pump with or without one. In my case, I think I got hold of new old stock from one of their vendors.

I just wanted to mention that to you before you installed it, so that you wouldn’t be chasing your tail if the problem still existed. It would suck to have to pull the pump again. In fact, that’s why I bought their inline check valve. I was not trying to pull the pump and make another mess with a full tank of fuel. Good luck to you in getting things sorted. Please keep us updated.

 

[engineermike]

The Roush supercharger kit runs the stock pump at a limit of 12.5 volts and it keeps up reasonably well at 650+ rwhp. Bump up the voltage in the tuning and it will support a lot more.

 

[jloshotz]

I’m not sure, but it may be worth calling DeatschWerks to see if they can tell you how to identify a pump with or without one. In my case, I think I got hold of new old stock from one of their vendors.

I just wanted to mention that to you before you installed it, so that you wouldn’t be chasing your tail if the problem still existed. It would suck to have to pull the pump again. In fact, that’s why I bought their inline check valve. I was not trying to pull the pump and make another mess with a full tank of fuel. Good luck to you in getting things sorted. Please keep us updated.

Thank you sir, sadly I do most of my research AFTER I buy something. A bad habit I have

 

[NGOT8R]

Thank you sir, sadly I do most of my research AFTER I buy something. A bad habit I have

I understand. I’ve been there a time or two myself. At least now, you have enough information to help you figure this one out before the install.

 

[LOL WUT]

There is no reason to do this upgrade. The stock pump flows extremely well and will support a lot more most think.

I agree with this 100%. On a car with no power adder I’d feel better with the stock unit in the tank.

 

[jloshotz]

I already purchased it, do you think I should just sell the DW and get a stock unit, scrapping the whole idea? I was thinking a “better than stock” would be a good idea. Not even being sarcastic, I’ll go the stock route if it will cause me less headaches. I’m doubtful I will ever add a supercharger, or anything even near where I’d NEED extra pressure or flow.

 

[NGOT8R]

Are you ever going to run E85 in the car? Maybe my factory pump failure was a fluke, but to be fair, I was on E85 and running. BAP. However, the BAP was not active full time like some of the others are.

You may not need it if you don’t intend to up your power level, but it certainly won’t hurt to have it in case you do.

I’m always going to upgrade any component that fails with something better. I figure that way, eventually I’ll get rid of all the weak links as they surface.

 

[jloshotz]

Are you ever going to run E85 in the car? Maybe my factory pump failure was a fluke, but to be fair, I was on E85 and running. BAP. However, the BAP was not active full time like some of the others are.

You may not need it if you don’t intend to up your power level, but it certainly won’t hurt to have it in case you do.

I’m always going to upgrade any component that fails with something better. I figure that way, eventually I’ll get rid of all the weak links as they surface.

This was my thinking exactly, just to go with something hopefully superior to OEM… I don’t plan on running e85 either, so no worries there. I have to look at the pump (should be here tomorrow) to figure out if it is pre-check valve or not also. I just know that the bucket needs to be modified as well for the DW (or so I’ve read) I just hear an intermittent hum or whine coming from mine (90k on the car) and wanted to do a PLANNED replacement just for peace of mind. I found the original cabin air filter in the car, so I don’t know if the pump is original or not And so opens Pandora’s box LOL

 

[NGOT8R]

This was my thinking exactly, just to go with something hopefully superior to OEM… I don’t plan on running e85 either, so no worries there. I have to look at the pump (should be here tomorrow) to figure out if it is pre-check valve or not also. I just know that the bucket needs to be modified as well for the DW (or so I’ve read) I just hear an intermittent hum or whine coming from mine (90k on the car) and wanted to do a PLANNED replacement just for peace of mind. I found the original cabin air filter in the car, so I don’t know if the pump is original or not And so opens Pandora’s box LOL

Either way, at 90K miles, your fuel filter (sock) is probably filthy and could stand to be changed. It’s like chewing on a straw and sipping your drink with a restriction vs drinking from an unrestricted straw. Your motor will be much happier.

If you noticed in the pics from my fuel pump failure thread, the fuel sock was dirty with just 7K miles on the car.

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