Drag Suspension Questions

[rabid_josh]

LOL! I know, I did the same thing, and all I have is a pile of broken parts to prove it.
If you want to go fast, without tearing up your equipment, go to a fully prepped track.
Be safe and have fun!

idk where you're from, but radial prep aint happening around here, and i aint payin 100-200 to go test on a radial prepped track. No prep is extremely common and there events weekend after weekend year round vs radial prepped stuff that happens 1/3 of the amount of time. If i want to race i am going to setup my stuff to whats in this area, and thats no prep. There are plenty of products to use and ive reached out to those people at those companies and they've pointed me in the right direction for a proper setup. I can drive, read a surface and make the adjustments necessary. I aint afraid of no prep and do NOT need some flypaper track to run the numbers this car should run. if yall aint about that life its fine by me, but i am.

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[SolarFlare]

You can spend $100-200 on a rental that gets you an 11.2-11.3 with a basic drag radial OR you can buy the entire suspension catalog, try 3 different tires and then spend $20 10 times on a shitty track to try to push the car to go under 11.50s. Lmao yea the $100 rental is definitely a waste of money. Lol

 

[bluebeastsrt]

i get that but i grew a pair and race anywhere...

And how’s that working out for ya so far?

 

[Skyrm_da]

idk where you're from, but radial prep aint happening around here, and i aint payin 100-200 to go test on a radial prepped track. No prep is extremely common and there events weekend after weekend year round vs radial prepped stuff that happens 1/3 of the amount of time. If i want to race i am going to setup my stuff to whats in this area, and thats no prep. There are plenty of products to use and ive reached out to those people at those companies and they've pointed me in the right direction for a proper setup. I can drive, read a surface and make the adjustments necessary. I aint afraid of no prep and do NOT need some flypaper track to run the numbers this car should run. if yall aint about that life its fine by me, but i am.

Get a hoosier DBR tire and if you buy Vikings get the crusaders.

 

[rabid_josh]

Get a hoosier DBR tire and if you buy Vikings get the crusaders.

I have the proper Vikings. Currently running the Mickey ET Street R, and have considered the D06 Hoosier slick, or the DBR for my next set of rears. Not sure If i wanted to go full slick, but if i want better results, its probably the right move. This is all about adapting to what's available around me, but still being able to run the number it "should". Anyone will agree that going out and testing/tuning your setup isnt any fun when you're dealing with conditions you cant control.

 

[Coyote Chase]

idk where you're from, but radial prep aint happening around here, and i aint payin 100-200 to go test on a radial prepped track. No prep is extremely common and there events weekend after weekend year round vs radial prepped stuff that happens 1/3 of the amount of time. If i want to race i am going to setup my stuff to whats in this area, and thats no prep. There are plenty of products to use and ive reached out to those people at those companies and they've pointed me in the right direction for a proper setup. I can drive, read a surface and make the adjustments necessary. I aint afraid of no prep and do NOT need some flypaper track to run the numbers this car should run. if yall aint about that life its fine by me, but i am.

I come from the same school as you do. I ran (and sometimes still do) local tracks with low prep.
But I have found that I go faster and break fewer parts on prepped tracks. And that means I spend less money on repair. But, your right, it does cost more to race national events at mostly 1/4 mile tracks.
Regardless, I feel it's important to support your local tracks and I enjoy attending as often as possible and racing weekly after the end of the NMRA/NMCA season.
Enjoy, and be safe!

 

[Skyrm_da]

I have the proper Vikings. Currently running the Mickey ET Street R, and have considered the D06 Hoosier slick, or the DBR for my next set of rears. Not sure If i wanted to go full slick, but if i want better results, its probably the right move. This is all about adapting to what's available around me, but still being able to run the number it "should". Anyone will agree that going out and testing/tuning your setup isnt any fun when you're dealing with conditions you cant control.

The DBR is the way to go. It crushes the Mickey T on the street for digs. IATs were high or these would’ve been 6.xx passes…on the street.

 

[rabid_josh]

The DBR is the way to go. It crushes the Mickey T on the street for digs. IATs were high or these would’ve been 6.xx passes…on the street.

what car and mods?

 

[Kennysum1]

Sub 500 HP and cannot hook up... going to have a really bad time later. Let me get those Street Rs. Damn things are sold out for 3+ months and you cant use them.

 

[rabid_josh]

Sub 500 HP and cannot hook up... going to have a really bad time later. Let me get those Street Rs. Damn things are sold out for 3+ months and you cant use them.

acting like it isnt an issue on sub par surfaces no matter the HP is comical at best, especially when street tires are being used on the same surface.

 

[Kennysum1]

I just do not see how you cannot hook with those tires and that HP/Torque.

Hell my Quad has almost 200 more HP and Toyo R888Rs on it and it will generally hook up...

 

[rabid_josh]

I just do not see how you cannot hook with those tires and that HP/Torque.

Hell my Quad has almost 200 more HP and Toyo R888Rs on it and it will generally hook up...

well, even on its best pass. with a good burnout, 17lbs of tire pressure. 2200-2500ish rpm footbrake it spun on the hit, not horrible enough to let out, and we still a 1.77 but i know its got better in it because its been better before.

 

[Skyrm_da]

what car and mods?

19 GT a10 fbo car

 

[Hostil]

My best is a 1.62 60ft at 20psi on Hoosier D6 bias ply. I've also got full spherical bearing set-up in the rear suspension. Stock springs and sway bars. 2015 Perf Pack, 2018 Intake, full exhaust and headers, and Steeda tune. The bias plys make quite a difference over any radial.

Just did my LCA's haven't driven it yet. Have you had any issues or noises with yours?

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