Drag Suspension Questions

[rabid_josh]

Recently gotten to the point of a bolt on car horsepower range on my 2020 401A PP1 car w/magnaride. So 480-500ish WHP. I’m not going boost any time soon, and I’m looking for some answers. I run Mickey ET street Rs somewhere around the 16-17psi range, I’ve got vertical links and cradle lockouts. The car spins on marginal track surfaces at anything above a 1500rpm launch. I’d like to get into the lower 1.6s 60ft range without having to require radial prep. My only issue that throws a wrench into things is I cannot lower the car any further than stock magnaride height as my driveway won’t allow for it.

Best the car has ever went is a 1.71 60ft with less HP than current.
Any tips, part suggestions, etc are greatly appreciated.

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[vxer1000]

My best is a 1.62 60ft at 20psi on Hoosier D6 bias ply. I've also got full spherical bearing set-up in the rear suspension. Stock springs and sway bars. 2015 Perf Pack, 2018 Intake, full exhaust and headers, and Steeda tune. The bias plys make quite a difference over any radial.

 

[rabid_josh]

My best is a 1.62 60ft at 20psi on Hoosier D6 bias ply. I've also got full spherical bearing set-up in the rear suspension. Stock springs and sway bars. 2015 Perf Pack, 2018 Intake, full exhaust and headers, and Steeda tune. The bias plys make quite a difference over any radial.

Been on the fence about just going over to a slick tire honestly think that may help as well.

 

[bluebeastsrt]

A converter is worth about 2/10s. I could cut low 1.5s NA and 1.4s on boost. With a circle D 4c. And that was on a mainly stock suspension with some stop the hop goodies. Mickey Thompson ET street Rs.

 

[rabid_josh]

A converter is worth about 2/10s. I could cut low 1.5s NA and 1.4s on boost. With a circle D 4c. And that was on a mainly stock suspension with some stop the hop goodies. Mickey Thompson ET street Rs.

viking shocks are much cheaper than a converter especially since I do plan for some sort of forced induction here soon. I talked with Viking today and they recommended a shock that’s actually going to work on my setup all the way up to 1k hp. I fully believe after talking with someone about these shocks directly, this is the potential correct direction for poorly prepped or no prep surfaces

 

[bluebeastsrt]

viking shocks are much cheaper than a converter especially since I do plan for some sort of forced induction here soon. I talked with Viking today and they recommended a shock that’s actually going to work on my setup all the way up to 1k hp. I fully believe after talking with someone about these shocks directly, this is the potential correct direction for poorly prepped or no prep surfaces

A converter works fantastic with a centri style blower. It seams you have your heart set on those vikings. Best of luck to ya.

 

[rabid_josh]

A converter works fantastic with a centri style blower. It seams you have your heart set on those vikings. Best of luck to ya.

My issue is i havent decided on WHICH type of forced induction I am going with. I have looked at a couple single turbo kits, also looked at a procharger/vortech setup. I cant choose at the moment.

 

[cahouston]

My issue is i havent decided on WHICH type of forced induction I am going with. I have looked at a couple single turbo kits, also looked at a procharger/vortech setup. I cant choose at the moment.

If your options are a centri blower or turbo, then a converter will be a great compliment to either of those as it will allow you to launch higher in the rev range with more boost than from normal stall speed.

 

[VicRattlehead]

viking shocks are much cheaper than a converter especially since I do plan for some sort of forced induction here soon. I talked with Viking today and they recommended a shock that’s actually going to work on my setup all the way up to 1k hp. I fully believe after talking with someone about these shocks directly, this is the potential correct direction for poorly prepped or no prep surfaces

what shock did they say to use?

 

[SolarFlare]

If you cant hook at sub 500whp you're gonna hate life at 700whp..

 

[rabid_josh]

If you cant hook at sub 500whp you're gonna hate life at 700whp..

You clearly don’t no prep/street race. I’ve also spoken with multiple manufacturers that have said the MR shocks aren’t the answer, and they’ve had better success with a stock shock, so….

 

[Coyote Chase]

viking shocks are much cheaper than a converter especially since I do plan for some sort of forced induction here soon. I talked with Viking today and they recommended a shock that’s actually going to work on my setup all the way up to 1k hp. I fully believe after talking with someone about these shocks directly, this is the potential correct direction for poorly prepped or no prep surfaces

I have found that the best solution is not to run poorly prepped and/or no prep tracks!

 

[rabid_josh]

I have found that the best solution is not to run poorly prepped and/or no prep tracks!

i get that but i grew a pair and race anywhere...

 

[SolarFlare]

You clearly don’t no prep/street race. I’ve also spoken with multiple manufacturers that have said the MR shocks aren’t the answer, and they’ve had better success with a stock shock, so….

Maybe you're right, I dont have lazy track owners here that hide their shitty work behind, "iTs No pReP bRo"....so... good luck setting up a promod mid 11sec car.

 

[Coyote Chase]

i get that but i grew a pair and race anywhere...

i get that but i grew a pair and race anywhere...

LOL! I know, I did the same thing, and all I have is a pile of broken parts to prove it.
If you want to go fast, without tearing up your equipment, go to a fully prepped track.
Be safe and have fun!

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