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Does your Mustang's seat lumbar support suck?

Fishels

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You have to take the seat cover off to access the air bladder afaik. Mine I feel on left and right where your kidneys are but lower. Not much in the middle with the spine.
Okay so since mine barely moves on one side I decided to go to a local carmax and see if they had a mustang to sit in. They had a 2016 eco premium and the seat is completely different than my mustang.

The 2016 one definitely had the “bladder“ even on the lowest setting and the seat felt like it had a cushion in it. Even the seat looked different visualy in how much support there was in the lower back area. It was like the eco had a pillow in it.

My mind was legit blown because of how different it was from my seat.

My mustang driver seat is VERY flat and you can sink into it almost. It has no chusion or firmness like the eco I sat in. It’s almost as if the bladder thing was deleted or something. Or is it possible it simply collapsed due to wear and tear? I wonder how hard a fix would be?

I’m going to try and sit in another mustang to compare I am sorry I’m rambling but I couldn’t believe how different my seat is. I may take some pics of my seat.
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tdstuart

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Okay so since mine barely moves on one side I decided to go to a local carmax and see if they had a mustang to sit in. They had a 2016 eco premium and the seat is completely different than my mustang.

The 2016 one definitely had the “bladder“ even on the lowest setting and the seat felt like it had a cushion in it. Even the seat looked different visualy in how much support there was in the lower back area. It was like the eco had a pillow in it.

My mind was legit blown because of how different it was from my seat.

My mustang driver seat is VERY flat and you can sink into it almost. It has no chusion or firmness like the eco I sat in. It’s almost as if the bladder thing was deleted or something. Or is it possible it simply collapsed due to wear and tear? I wonder how hard a fix would be?

I’m going to try and sit in another mustang to compare I am sorry I’m rambling but I couldn’t believe how different my seat is. I may take some pics of my seat.
I just replied to your other post about this on another thread. This sounds like the support for the lumbar bladder has broken. Makes the lower part of your seat feel like it has no cushioning. Happened to me
 

Fishels

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I just replied to your other post about this on another thread. This sounds like the support for the lumbar bladder has broken. Makes the lower part of your seat feel like it has no cushioning. Happened to me
Did yours suddenly snap? What year and did you replace it?
 

tdstuart

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Did yours suddenly snap? What year and did you replace it?
More of a pop, felt like the whole lumbar support just pushed in. Happened during a pull.

2015 mustang gt, happened like a month ago.

And no haven't replaced it yet
 

Fishels

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More of a pop, felt like the whole lumbar support just pushed in. Happened during a pull.

2015 mustang gt, happened like a month ago.

And no haven't replaced it yet
Will you replace it?


Does it bother you in terms of seating while driving. Also does the passenger seat have this structure thing. I know it doesn’t have that button for lumbar adjust but my passenger seat is noticeably more firm. Although it doesn’t have that pillow or extra firm thing.

sorry for all the question’s I wish id never notice it lol! This car has been head ache but I love it. Thanks nice color mustang
 

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Rabbi Mike

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After over a year of going back and forth on this, I'm starting to think I should try your solution.

... except I don't trust myself to try it on my own?

Who would I ask to do this? An upholstery shop? The dealer? Would it somehow void the warranty?

Thanks,
M

... I've effectively removed what was poking in my back this whole time. This means the lumbar is not operational now. Getting into the back of the seat is a breeze, I worked from the back seat upside down and removed two electrical connectors and then the elastic bands holding the back fabric. With that away a trim pry tool will get two plastic push pins out then the back flap opens right up. Lifting up the flap and looking for the plastic pin that is seated in the metal hoop (see picture). With needle nose pliers, I squeezed the tabs together and pushed it out of the hoop. Once you release this, it releases the tension and you can see the sides of the lumbar retract. I connected the motor again (will it pop a code if disconnected?) and will disconnect the lumbar switch itself. Check it out.

HUGE difference!

IMG_5589.JPG

IMG_5596.JPG



IMG_5594.JPG
 

DrZed

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After over a year of going back and forth on this, I'm starting to think I should try your solution.

... except I don't trust myself to try it on my own?

Who would I ask to do this? An upholstery shop? The dealer? Would it somehow void the warranty?

Thanks,
M
If you have a car savvy or a friend who can work on cars, it is a pretty straight forward thing once you get the back of the seat opened. You also want to disconnect the lumbar switch so you don't accidentally hit it with the cable released. Not sure a dealer would do this... worth asking.
 

Unbridled5.0

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You also want to disconnect the lumbar switch so you don't accidentally hit it with the cable released. Not sure a dealer would do this... worth asking.
Thanks for posting how you fixed your seat. I'm going to attempt this myself.

How did you disconnect the switch? Did you disconnect the battery before any of this work?
 

VoR

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I think since you will be unplugging the seat connections you do need to disconnect the battery. Maybe due to airbags and not wanting the airbag light to come on.
 

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DrZed

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Thanks for posting how you fixed your seat. I'm going to attempt this myself.

How did you disconnect the switch? Did you disconnect the battery before any of this work?
I disconnected the switch only on the side of the seat, quick unplug of that. I left the lumbar motor connected to its connector. No codes or lights.

Did not disconnect the battery.
 

Unbridled5.0

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Victoryyyyyyyy!!!!!




It's done! And I only had to drop about 175 GD's and MF's along the way.

I'll add some to what DrZed has already posted. HUGE thanks to him for being the first of us to break this ground AND share it with us!!

Some helpful hints:

1) Cut the elastic band under the seat that is closest to the door. The electrical connector up above that it's wrapped around is a nightmare to unhook from the bottom of the seat (it doesn't need to be unplugged anyway, and you don't need that first elastic band either.) This will save you an hour of cursing and many cuts on your hand/wrist. The second elastic band, the one closest to the transmission tunnel, is plenty adequate to keep the seats bottom flap up tight once you're finished. You'll see when you get there..


2) Only unplug the connector to the far right that's attached to the bottom of the seat. It's the one closest to the transmission tunnel. (I'll attach a photo of it) No others need to be disconnected or left unplugged afterwards. That one connector controls the lumbar motor and/or the lumbar switch on the side of the seat. I'm not sure if it controls both the motor and the switch, but with it unplugged, the lumbar will no longer work. Perfecto! Once you've unplugged this connector, you'll be able to pull the elastic band off the electrical connector's post that it's wrapped around. Once that's done, you can lift up the flap and you're now into the back of the seat!

3) Don't worry if you mangle the two bottom Christmas tree push pins that attach the inner fabric to the bottom corners of the back of the seat. They will still work just fine when you're finished, and nobody should ever see them again once you lower the flap back down. *knock on wood*

4) Pinching the small plastic fitting on the cable and pushing it through the back of the metal hoop that it's seated in is easiest done with needle nose pliers. Getting it all the way out of the metal hoop is tricky, and you'll be mad, but keep fighting! You're nearly there! Make sure you get that plastic fitting and cable completely free of the metal hoop or it will get pulled right back in when you sit in the seat. (Ask me how I know)



Now for pics...


The two connector's on the left that attach to the floor can be left alone. The connector to right that you see unplugged is the only one you need to unplug. It's a bit of a pain to pull that connector off the bottom of the seat, but going at it by laying across the back seat from the passenger side helped me get the right angle. At 37yrs this acrobatic shit is getting to be too much. But oh well..

Screenshot_20240712_173409_Gallery.jpg


Here you can see I've got the cable and plastic fitting totally free of the metal hoop. This is what you want it to look like.

Screenshot_20240712_172736_Gallery.jpg



Overall, this was a bitch and a half. I'm not going to sit here and blow smoke up anyone's ass about it. However, in the long run, for my sanity and the health of my spine, it had to be done and was well worth the 2.5hrs of struggle. I would absolutely do it again. Just not today. I need 4 ibuprofen now...
 

WildHorse

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I have the base seat.. lumbar support is excellent. Wifey really love the seats.
side note: we both sat in a mustangs with Recardo's... we both hated them
ha-ha.
 

Unbridled5.0

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I have the base seat.. lumbar support is excellent. Wifey really love the seats.
side note: we both sat in a mustangs with Recardo's... we both hated them
ha-ha.
It always felt too high up in the seat back for my body frame. Needed to be moved down some. Even totally deflated it still felt like a knee in the middle of my back.
 

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