Does the oil consumption issue apply only to the f150? Looking to buy my first 3rd gen coyote mustang but worried about all the issues.

[RagmopInKona]

Imagine not buying a fun car you want because you're afraid to check the oil level once in a while

In a car with a 10 QUART pan.

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[young at heart]

An acquaintance had the same year and model 997.2 cabriolet as I had. He had bore scoring. After getting it repaired, which took a year, the dreaded limiter switch in his PDK failed. Totals repair costs were $40k+ for the engine and $25k for the transmission. I sold my 997.2 and bought the Mustang shortly after hearing this.

I’d say that was a rolling total. He’d been better off to just part it out and start over.

 

[noGreta!]

Hey OP,

When you buy these cars you essentially spin a wheel and hope for the best (much like most cars).

I had a 21 and currently a 23 V8. Both had/have nasty driveline vibration issues and the dreaded and infamous BBQ tick. Both issues were shrugged off by Ford as "within spec". Both are well known and documented in this forum by numerous members.

The 23 is a second "weekend" vehicle so I will enjoy it (aka beat the hell out of it) until I trade it in for something else probably within a year or two (ceteris paribus). My Cherokee X (which I thought would be trash has proven to be a mileage eater of worlds with 0 issues) is my daily so I worry not.

My personal advice to you boils down to this: don't buy a 5.0 as your daily and one and only car if you need peace of mind and are not able or willing to work on it or have it spend enormous amounts of time at the dealer, if and when something fails. Some people here are OK with that - personally I work too much to play mechanic at my garage and I don't trust my luck.

As far as the uncouth fan-boys that give you a hard time, just ignore them. There is nothing wrong with doing your research and worrying about the product you spend a lot of money on. Besides, they won't be around to give you a ride when (and if) your new car develops a serious mechanical issue.

 

[young at heart]

Porsche says a quart of oil every 600 miles is considered normal. That's just one of the things that made me give up on the brand.

Back in the late ‘60s/early ‘70s big block Chevrolets were notorious oil eaters. Even then GM’s standard was 550 mpq. You could sometimes see ‘em puffing a bit going down the road.

Not much progress I’d say.

 

[Balr14]

I’d say that was a rolling total. He’d been better off to just part it out and start over.

The problem is the cylinder liners break down. The only way to avoid it is have the block bored out and nickle liners installed. That isn't cheap or easy, and the builders have a waiting list up to a year. The car sits while you wait; can't risk destroying the block. (One of the biggest things that attracted me to Mustang was the sprayed cylinder liners they use).

The PDK failed 3 months after getting the car back. The distance limiter switch failed. It's a $3 switch, but Porsche does not allow the transmissions to be worked on; they must be replaced.

So, I don't know what You mean by rolling total. At any rate, he sold the car as soon as the transmission was fixed and walked away from the Porsche brand. He's like me, if he was real rich, he'd buy another. Otherwise, no way.

 

[young at heart]

The problem is the cylinder liners break down. The only way to avoid it is have the block bored out and nickle liners installed. That isn't cheap or easy, and the builders have a waiting list up to a year. The car sits while you wait; can't risk destroying the block. (One of the biggest things that attracted me to Mustang was the sprayed cylinder liners they use).

The PDK failed 3 months after getting the car back. The distance limiter switch failed. It's a $3 switch, but Porsche does not allow the transmissions to be worked on; they must be replaced.

So, I don't know what You mean by rolling total. At any rate, he sold the car as soon as the transmission was fixed and walked away from the Porsche brand. He's like me, if he was real rich, he'd buy another. Otherwise, no way.

Not trying to be harsh, but by rolling total I mean compare $65K in repair costs to the actual cash value of the car at the time. Seems kinda like sending good money after bad.

 

[Strokerswild]

I personally believe that the oil consumption thing on '18+ 5.0s is due to long piston ring break-in with the bore coating.

Saw it firsthand with my '19 F150. I always break in an engine pretty aggressively, but mine burned a quart every 1000-1200 miles no matter what. So I watched it and went on with my life. Somewhere between 10-15K miles it dropped off substantially.

For the record, I never had the full TSB addressed but I did buy the 2-quart dipstick that was part of it. Under $10 for a little more resolution never hurts, my engineer brain figures.

 

[ORRadtech]

I’d say that was a rolling total. He’d been better off to just part it out and start over.

The problem with parting a vehicle out is most people don't want to deal with disassembly, storing parts, advertising, sales,shipping and listening to the after sale bs.
There's absolutely money to be made because most used cars are worth more as parts than whole. Example, I've got a '12 Edge with a bit over 200k on the clock. Otherwise it's nearly perfect. If I could sell it for $5k I'd be lucky. If I was of a mind I could get more than that for the engine, trans and seats. Not to mention fenders, bumpers, doors, hatch, electronics, suspension etc.
But doing all that can take months and is a huge PITA

 

[EFI]

I personally believe that the oil consumption thing on '18+ 5.0s is due to long piston ring break-in with the bore coating.

Saw it firsthand with my '19 F150. I always break in an engine pretty aggressively, but mine burned a quart every 1000-1200 miles no matter what

But even that seems to be hit or miss, mainly miss. I never did a proper break-in, and mine never burned a single drop since day one and now currently with 13,000 miles. Same for a few other local guys I know with new Gen 3s, they all did various levels of break-in and none burn oil to this day. We go to track days over the summer every year and all of our engines run strong.

 

[Strokerswild]

But even that seems to be hit or miss, mainly miss. I never did a proper break-in, and mine never burned a single drop since day one and now currently with 13,000 miles. Same for a few other local guys I know with new Gen 3s, they all did various levels of break-in and none burn oil to this day. We go to track days over the summer every year and all of our engines run strong.

Who knows, might be a tolerance stackup thing too when it comes to rings and pistons, combined with the cylinder coating.

I was prepared (paranoid) early thanks to the F150 boards, so when I got my '19 and it used a little oil it didn't bother me (the sky certainly wasn't falling). I figured it will either improve or get worse, or the thing would hatch completely in the meantime. Regardless, warranty would have covered, so it was a matter of checking frequently and adding oil as necessary. But mine hardly burns anything now, currently at 25K+ miles.

 

[sk47]

Hello; OK I'll bite. No, I have not owned a Coyote. I have owned 351 W and 351 C V8's. I have owned the 300 inline six. I have worked on various other Ford engines over the decades.

Hello; to @SensesFail. Why does this post make you angry?

 

[sk47]

Hello; to @SensesFail. Why does this post make you angry?

Hello; Strange, but have a nice day.

 

[sk47]

Who knows, might be a tolerance stackup thing too when it comes to rings and pistons, combined with the cylinder coating.

Hello; This is likely part of the reason some have no problems while others have more serious problems. All the parts of a complex machine have a tolerance range for the individual parts. The cylinder bore is within a range. The ring the same. Then all the other parts.
I figure most engines, transmissions and other such will have individual parts of an average range. Some at the high end of spec along with some at the low end of being in spec.

Every now and then some unlucky owner will get one of these with pretty much all the parts at the loose end of tolerances. Engine bores just slightly bigger than average. Rings with loose end gaps or low tension. Pistons on the small end of acceptable tolerances. Add all these up and an engine burns more oil or takes much longer to seat in.
There may even be a range of tolerances in the plasma coating in terms of hardness. One batch a bit harder than another or some such thing.

There was an old saw over the years that you hoped the new car you bought was not assembled on a Monday. Meaning there were likely lots of hangovers on the line on a Monday. You hoped for a Wednesday car.

 

[Balr14]

Not trying to be harsh, but by rolling total I mean compare $65K in repair costs to the actual cash value of the car at the time. Seems kinda like sending good money after bad.

OK, I see what you mean. I believe he felt that with the engine rebuild and improvements, he would be able to enjoy the car, worry free, for a long time. He just gave up on it when the transmission went, too.

 

[young at heart]

OK, I see what you mean. I believe he felt that with the engine rebuild and improvements, he would be able to enjoy the car, worry free, for a long time. He just gave up on it when the transmission went, too.

Yeah, they are just brutally expensive to work on or worse, have worked on by someone else-especially a dealer.

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