does anyone make big lopey cams for gen 3 Coyote yet

[TRPCANA]

500 whp is a solid target for Gen 2. You can get there on E85 with cams, CJ manifold and longtubes. That's still a very expensive package ($2000 cams, $1500 CJ setup, $300 injectors, $1500 headers). OPG and CG, tuner and tune you'd pay either way, so you're talking about a $5300-5500 NA build vs $6000 low boost blower, and the latter will make more power.

Dont forget cost of labor and supporting mods for cams, new chainguides and a few other things are recommended. Most blower setups can be installed in your home garage and with regular tools.

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[BrianGT2015]

Damn it I hate this argument every single time someone says Durrrrrrrr boost it bro.

No! NA cars are running 10s and dont have to worry about breaking shit left and right. Or added weight. Or adding a 1k plus fuel system.

Or 4 figures for a belt wrap kit and pulleys for some FI kits

Durrrrr just boost it bro.... SMH!!

Its not always about chasing a god damn HP number on the dyno or running a 9 sec pass.

Guess what ALOT of us daily our cars and would like to keep it that way.

IMO a stalled A10 with stupid 3.73 gears comp cams and a CJ manifold screaming at 8K+ would be a damn riot on the street and laugh at stock hellcats and other "Boosted Bro" cars that can barely run 10s. I dont give a damn what your time slip or dyno sheet says. Do you enjoy driving the car!!!????

Durr check out my blower but I dont have a damn clue what to do with the suspension or tires to make it work.

Id rather be able to drive a car in anger and on the ragged edge of 8k rpm than be chewing my fingernails thinking what if it breaks.

Sure some people can afford to go full retard then cough up another 3 to 5k for a trans or engine if or when it grenades. More power to you if you can.

GTFO of here with that Durrrrr just boost it mentality and 12 year old comments.

This guy is upset. However i also like the idea of a 10 sec naturally aspirated 2015 5.0...please do tell what i need to do

 

[BrianGT2015]

I thought abour doing an na set up for a while. However. The only reason I want to go boost it is because it is cost-prohibitive. To do the na setup. I thought maybe being able to spend a little bit here and there and build the car completely would be a good idea however I like the idea of bolting on couple hundred extra horsepower and upgrading my fuel system with a good tune and calling it a day. I've been told that most of the boosted cars when driving around like a normal everyday vehicle you don't even know they're boosted.

 

[Five_Point_OHHH]

Good luck lol, i priced out everything i would need to push the limits for a max effort NA build, and including cams and all its supporting mods for the cams, ported CJ, TB for the CJ, CAI for the CJ, aftermarket hood or steeda motor mounts to lower the engine so it will fit, an ATI super dampner, headers, and the cost of labor the cost was over $7,560 so far. And that is just cams and a ported CJ setup and an ATI. I already have a tune on E85 and supporting suspension mods so i didnt need to include that in the cost, but if you are starting near stock you will end up spending near another $1,000 on those items. So now you are looking at an $8,560 build. The article i believe you are referencing is for a gen 3 motor, not the gen 2 you have, and on top of that it as a gen 3 on an engine stand not in the car. Even if it wasnt i will still reference it since their results on a max effort setup on a gen 3 will be great for comparison. It was a Motortrend article and they used comps stage 3 cams with ported CJ and all the rest and ended up with 600 but at the crank, on a gen 3. I highly, highly doubt you will ever make near that to the rear on a gen 2 engine and you'll spend 8.5k. Ive never seen ANY gen coyote making 600 or 650 rwhp fully NA without nitrous or boost. Now im not throwing the blower argument here since i myself am also not going FI and staying NA, but 8.5k spent to get less HP than even the cheapest boost setup is a pretty dumb idea IMO. The thing you should look at instead is doing the basic mods in sequence and maybe capping out at a ported CJ setup on E85 with suspension and tire. With seat time this combo will run very nice times at the track regardless of what it dyno's and you wont spend all your cash to do it. Just my 2 cents, but trust me i went down your road and spent weeks researching this topic and cataloged every single part i would need for it to be a reliable setup and the price is staggering. In the end staring at the numbers to only make 600 at the crank on a gen 3 coyote its just not worth it at all. Theres a very good reason you only see FBO coyotes, nitrous coyotes, or boosted coyotes. Not true max effort NA builds. Good luck.

I don't think anyone here is denying the cost/benefit of FI vs NA. And I also understand the big difference in power output, but that is literally always how it is. FI will always make more power, however seeing every single upgraded mustang out there with another blower kit is common. I'm not looking to break records (or engines), opening up the engine a bit for some exercise is all I need.

Any F1 fans here? Do you remember how awesome the V10 and V12 NA engines were? The sound would go through your soul. You weren't able to talk to the person next to you because it was so loud. Do you know what it's like now? Twin turbo V6 engines producing more power and LIGHT YEARS faster than the old cars even without DRS. Not even a competition. But ask anyone that has been around for both and they would all rather have it the old way.

 

[Rjames18]

NA is boring. I'll spend a few more thousands and make 1000whp daily driver

 

[BmacIL]

Any F1 fans here? Do you remember how awesome the V10 and V12 NA engines were? The sound would go through your soul.

You can make the Coyote sound amazing NA without doing a max-effort NA build, and blowers don't negatively affect the sound like turbos.

 

[Kevin08]

Holy hell, reading that rage post all I could think of was this scene

 

[Rjames18]

You can make the Coyote sound amazing NA without doing a max-effort NA build, and blowers don't negatively affect the sound like turbos.

I promise you the sound of my car and every other turbo coyote was not "negatively affected" after adding turbos lmao

 

[Notagain]

Rage no. Not really. Upset? No just irritated with the just go FI people.

All I ask is that before people pry open that wallet for 6k 7k 8k plus.

Find a CJ E85 8k rpm stalled either A6 or A10 car with 3.73 gears and some drag radials. I dont care what it runs in the 1/4 I dont care what kind of ET it runs. I promise itll be a riot on the street and a complete blast to drive without destroying your wallet.

How often do you go to the drag strip?

Are you after a certian trap speed or ET? by all means GO FI then.

However I still feel for a daily car its not necessary. Cams not needed either.

My CJ E85 2016 car was door to door with cammed C6 Zo6s to 130mph. Thats without cams or converter and with 3.15 gears.

Id expect a 2018 A10 car to be even better with same setup and converter.

I mean think about it a 10 sec NA car its Hellcat on a drag radial territory 10.8s are pretty common on tire for those.

 

[WildHorse]

I agree.. nothing like a N/A engine singing along at 8K.

 

[moffetts]

Nothing like a NA engine at 8k except a FI engine at 8k.

 

[WildHorse]

Nothing like a NA engine at 8k except a FI engine at 8k.

And when NA car beats a FI car.. who's disabled then?

 

[Strokerswild]

Count me in on the stout NA engine weirdo camp. Up until recently I built engines on the side for a little extra jing, and there's nothing like dialing in a build to the Nth degree. I periodically have thoughts of building a 5.2 Coyote like the Aluminator XS, with a few nitpicky enhancements. Thing is, I'm not sure I could do it much cheaper.

FI is cool and all too (turbos!), and is the best bang for the buck....

 

[Five_Point_OHHH]

Good luck lol, i priced out everything i would need to push the limits for a max effort NA build, and including cams and all its supporting mods for the cams, ported CJ, TB for the CJ, CAI for the CJ, aftermarket hood or steeda motor mounts to lower the engine so it will fit, an ATI super dampner, headers, and the cost of labor the cost was over $7,560 so far. And that is just cams and a ported CJ setup and an ATI. I already have a tune on E85 and supporting suspension mods so i didnt need to include that in the cost, but if you are starting near stock you will end up spending near another $1,000 on those items. So now you are looking at an $8,560 build. The article i believe you are referencing is for a gen 3 motor, not the gen 2 you have, and on top of that it as a gen 3 on an engine stand not in the car. Even if it wasnt i will still reference it since their results on a max effort setup on a gen 3 will be great for comparison. It was a Motortrend article and they used comps stage 3 cams with ported CJ and all the rest and ended up with 600 but at the crank, on a gen 3. I highly, highly doubt you will ever make near that to the rear on a gen 2 engine and you'll spend 8.5k. Ive never seen ANY gen coyote making 600 or 650 rwhp fully NA without nitrous or boost. Now im not throwing the blower argument here since i myself am also not going FI and staying NA, but 8.5k spent to get less HP than even the cheapest boost setup is a pretty dumb idea IMO. The thing you should look at instead is doing the basic mods in sequence and maybe capping out at a ported CJ setup on E85 with suspension and tire. With seat time this combo will run very nice times at the track regardless of what it dyno's and you wont spend all your cash to do it. Just my 2 cents, but trust me i went down your road and spent weeks researching this topic and cataloged every single part i would need for it to be a reliable setup and the price is staggering. In the end staring at the numbers to only make 600 at the crank on a gen 3 coyote its just not worth it at all. Theres a very good reason you only see FBO coyotes, nitrous coyotes, or boosted coyotes. Not true max effort NA builds. Good luck.

Book was published in 2016 so well before the gen 3 was out.
People boost coyote engines because they can handle the boost, and the cost is more affordable than a full build. I also think it's like this because (IMO) people don't want to spend the money on building out the car properly and just want instant gratification of 800+hp on stock everything (which is why people also post about breaking things)
I'm not knocking boost, I still go back and forth but the constant 'just boost it' argument is rampant

 

[moffetts]

You can be "proper" all you want, but power is power. It's harder to justify and afford to boost it later when you've already spent 8 or 10 grand on a max effort NA build.

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