does anyone make big lopey cams for gen 3 Coyote yet

[TRPCANA]

Damn it I hate this argument every single time someone says Durrrrrrrr boost it bro.

No! NA cars are running 10s and dont have to worry about breaking shit left and right. Or added weight. Or adding a 1k plus fuel system.

Or 4 figures for a belt wrap kit and pulleys for some FI kits

Durrrrr just boost it bro.... SMH!!

Its not always about chasing a god damn HP number on the dyno or running a 9 sec pass.

Guess what ALOT of us daily our cars and would like to keep it that way.

IMO a stalled A10 with stupid 3.73 gears comp cams and a CJ manifold screaming at 8K+ would be a damn riot on the street and laugh at stock hellcats and other "Boosted Bro" cars that can barely run 10s. I dont give a damn what your time slip or dyno sheet says. Do you enjoy driving the car!!!????

Durr check out my blower but I dont have a damn clue what to do with the suspension or tires to make it work.

Id rather be able to drive a car in anger and on the ragged edge of 8k rpm than be chewing my fingernails thinking what if it breaks.

Sure some people can afford to go full retard then cough up another 3 to 5k for a trans or engine if or when it grenades. More power to you if you can.

GTFO of here with that Durrrrr just boost it mentality and 12 year old comments.

Easy there killer, dont lose sleep over this or pop a blood vessel, FYI this is the internet, dont take it so seriously.

I dont know what OP's goals are, i also dont drive OP's car. Boost is a suggestion because its a well known fact the coyote engine responds well to boost, many can be bolted on, tuned and driven daily without issue. Also paired with the fact that many companies offer boost packages at reduced prices with everything needed to bolt on and go, it makes a simplified recipe to XXX power level and XX at the strip depending on OP's goals. If boost isnt what he wants then guess what? OP wont go boost.

im just making some friendly advice, as far as "12 year old comments", well you can keep those to yourself, seems like you have plenty. Later hater.

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[Notagain]

Durr Just boost it bro........ LOL SMH.

 

[Notagain]

Unfortunately there’s no way to “like” a post multiple times.. couldn’t agree more.

Modding a car is about personalization. Who cared what a person wants to do with an NA build versus boost. There’s some things that are generally accepted as silly in the car world ( all the stickers, shitty wheels, fake rust wraps, neon lights everywhere, etc.). Choosing NA versus boost doesn’t fall in the same category of stoning someone over their choice.. lol.

As far as the more wear argument, that’s a pissing contest. It really comes down to the quality of parts, install, tuning and maintenance. People will pop a stock motor with a heavy foot and a bad tune, others will run a boosted stock motor with a dialed in tune and never have a failure. High RPM NA power and boost are not equal. Parts get stressed different in both applications.

Thank god someone gets it!!

Thank you!

 

[TRPCANA]

Durr Just boost it bro........ LOL SMH.

i literally dont see what your issue is. In my original post i mentioned to OP about comp cams new stage 3 cams because he asked. I also mentioned going with a boost build because its tried and true. I offered two sides to the coin, whichever he chooses is all him and its his car. Do i care if he goes boost? No. Do i fault him if he spends 15k plus on a NA build and ends up with the same numbers as a 5k boost car? No. As the other guy said its about being able to personalize your car and build, and i wont fault anyone for going FI or NA, or even stock with a just window tint, its up to them. You on the other hand, are literally freaking out and throwing a fit because you read one comment, read wayyyy to far into it in a way that i never intended, and are proceeding to clutter up a thread with nonsense comments and typing with what appears to be a stroke with all this "duurrr" nonsense. We get it bro, you have strong feelings on the subject. Perhaps dont read to far into comments and maybe ask before you have a seizure because one person made one suggestion? Oh and FYI, i also am considering a full NA build with comps new stage 3 cams myself due to the impressive gains and the desire to be different than the average boost build, i'll leave now so you can proceed to put your foot in your mouth with how stupid you are making yourself look. Goodbye.

 

[revinto7]

If you are looking at cams on a Coyote before other mods, you are doing it wrong.

Trade yours in and get an LT1 from Chevy instead. Do it now!

SOLD my LT1 16 2SS for a 18 A10 PP1 car .. Also had an LS3 1LE with vengeance racing Kaotic cam 621/624 with LTs Paxton Novi and Alky system made 801/646 on Mustang dyno .i built a nasty cammed 3V mustang that made 735 at 8200 rpm with custom comp cams .Not everyone likes to do cookie cutter Me TOO combos its nice to be different and original !!!!

 

[revinto7]

HERE IS MY 3V Build

 

[revinto7]

 

[revinto7]

want my 4 valve to be like this

 

[Notagain]

i literally dont see what your issue is. In my original post i mentioned to OP about comp cams new stage 3 cams because he asked. I also mentioned going with a boost build because its tried and true. I offered two sides to the coin, whichever he chooses is all him and its his car. Do i care if he goes boost? No. Do i fault him if he spends 15k plus on a NA build and ends up with the same numbers as a 5k boost car? No. As the other guy said its about being able to personalize your car and build, and i wont fault anyone for going FI or NA, or even stock with a just window tint, its up to them. You on the other hand, are literally freaking out and throwing a fit because you read one comment, read wayyyy to far into it in a way that i never intended, and are proceeding to clutter up a thread with nonsense comments and typing with what appears to be a stroke with all this "duurrr" nonsense. We get it bro, you have strong feelings on the subject. Perhaps dont read to far into comments and maybe ask before you have a seizure because one person made one suggestion? Oh and FYI, i also am considering a full NA build with comps new stage 3 cams myself due to the impressive gains and the desire to be different than the average boost build, i'll leave now so you can proceed to put your foot in your mouth with how stupid you are making yourself look. Goodbye.

I think you need to not take things so literal. 99% of my post is sarcastic because as soon as someone say NA and cams more often than not some knuckle head usually responds shortly after just boost it.

I keep saying durr just boost it bro because it sounds just as retarded as the people that always try bring it up.

There is a Forced Induction section here for a reason this isnt it.

 

[Ass-asin]

Gee really sooo is that more or less frequently than someone squeezing 800hp+ out of one?

Sure either will increase wear cmon.....

Have you ever drove a NA CJ car at 8k plus?

I had one and I live in North Dakota. Let me tell you every single on ramp and every single interstate pull will give you permagrin for hours.

Ask yourself how often do you go to tge dyno.... how often do you go to the track?

Me I daily mine rain snow sleet or shine. 23k miles in less than 11 months.

A properly built NA car could be a riot and an absolute blast without spending retarded money on it either. I miss my CJ E85 2016 bad!

Point is the OMG just boost is irritates me. These cars can run 10s with realatively little mods and WITHOUT spending 5 figures on a blower combo and proper fuel and suspension.

Its just a shitty apples to oranges comparison.

Sure I could say durrrr just go buy a fox and spray it thatll cost less type of comment makes about as much sense.

Damn it I hate this argument every single time someone says Durrrrrrrr boost it bro.

No! NA cars are running 10s and dont have to worry about breaking shit left and right. Or added weight. Or adding a 1k plus fuel system.

Or 4 figures for a belt wrap kit and pulleys for some FI kits

Durrrrr just boost it bro.... SMH!!

Its not always about chasing a god damn HP number on the dyno or running a 9 sec pass.

Guess what ALOT of us daily our cars and would like to keep it that way.

IMO a stalled A10 with stupid 3.73 gears comp cams and a CJ manifold screaming at 8K+ would be a damn riot on the street and laugh at stock hellcats and other "Boosted Bro" cars that can barely run 10s. I dont give a damn what your time slip or dyno sheet says. Do you enjoy driving the car!!!????

Durr check out my blower but I dont have a damn clue what to do with the suspension or tires to make it work.

Id rather be able to drive a car in anger and on the ragged edge of 8k rpm than be chewing my fingernails thinking what if it breaks.

Sure some people can afford to go full retard then cough up another 3 to 5k for a trans or engine if or when it grenades. More power to you if you can.

GTFO of here with that Durrrrr just boost it mentality and 12 year old comments.

Lol. I bet you’re a joy to live with.

 

[Zinc03svt]

Lol...

These forums are sooo similar too facebook. Once you realize you have a lot of people hidden or on ignore you wonder WTF am I even on here to begin with...

 

[Notagain]

Lol. I bet you’re a joy to live with.

Durrr Just Boost it Bro.....

SMH.

 

[Five_Point_OHHH]

jUsT bOoSt It bRo


just kidding. I'm with you. I think its great that so many mustang owners have been able to build fun and very fast FI builds and there is definitely a tendency toward that route, however I think making a fun NA build is great. The argument seems to be 'bang for buck' but for me there is something to be said about going against the grain. And to me, what is the point of an 1k hp boosted setup when it seems like every year they make a new car that is faster and faster from factory anyway.

I read about this build that I'm planning to use as my base which was very simple:
CAI
headers
upgraded throttle body
cams
ECU tune

This build made 591hp, plenty of fun to be had with that without any major risk (especially since its been proven with so many cars putting out 1k+ hp on stock blocks)

My target is in the 600-650 hp range. Will it cost me as much as a supercharger? Perhaps but I can put LTH and then take my time before doing cams. you can't put a blower on without a pulley.

Those hellion kits do seem pretty damn amazing though.

 

[TRPCANA]

jUsT bOoSt It bRo


just kidding. I'm with you. I think its great that so many mustang owners have been able to build fun and very fast FI builds and there is definitely a tendency toward that route, however I think making a fun NA build is great. The argument seems to be 'bang for buck' but for me there is something to be said about going against the grain. And to me, what is the point of an 1k hp boosted setup when it seems like every year they make a new car that is faster and faster from factory anyway.

I read about this build that I'm planning to use as my base which was very simple:
CAI
headers
upgraded throttle body
cams
ECU tune

This build made 591hp, plenty of fun to be had with that without any major risk (especially since its been proven with so many cars putting out 1k+ hp on stock blocks)

My target is in the 600-650 hp range. Will it cost me as much as a supercharger? Perhaps but I can put LTH and then take my time before doing cams. you can't put a blower on without a pulley.

Those hellion kits do seem pretty damn amazing though.

Good luck lol, i priced out everything i would need to push the limits for a max effort NA build, and including cams and all its supporting mods for the cams, ported CJ, TB for the CJ, CAI for the CJ, aftermarket hood or steeda motor mounts to lower the engine so it will fit, an ATI super dampner, headers, and the cost of labor the cost was over $7,560 so far. And that is just cams and a ported CJ setup and an ATI. I already have a tune on E85 and supporting suspension mods so i didnt need to include that in the cost, but if you are starting near stock you will end up spending near another $1,000 on those items. So now you are looking at an $8,560 build. The article i believe you are referencing is for a gen 3 motor, not the gen 2 you have, and on top of that it as a gen 3 on an engine stand not in the car. Even if it wasnt i will still reference it since their results on a max effort setup on a gen 3 will be great for comparison. It was a Motortrend article and they used comps stage 3 cams with ported CJ and all the rest and ended up with 600 but at the crank, on a gen 3. I highly, highly doubt you will ever make near that to the rear on a gen 2 engine and you'll spend 8.5k. Ive never seen ANY gen coyote making 600 or 650 rwhp fully NA without nitrous or boost. Now im not throwing the blower argument here since i myself am also not going FI and staying NA, but 8.5k spent to get less HP than even the cheapest boost setup is a pretty dumb idea IMO. The thing you should look at instead is doing the basic mods in sequence and maybe capping out at a ported CJ setup on E85 with suspension and tire. With seat time this combo will run very nice times at the track regardless of what it dyno's and you wont spend all your cash to do it. Just my 2 cents, but trust me i went down your road and spent weeks researching this topic and cataloged every single part i would need for it to be a reliable setup and the price is staggering. In the end staring at the numbers to only make 600 at the crank on a gen 3 coyote its just not worth it at all. Theres a very good reason you only see FBO coyotes, nitrous coyotes, or boosted coyotes. Not true max effort NA builds. Good luck.

 

[BmacIL]

Good luck lol, i priced out everything i would need to push the limits for a max effort NA build, and including cams and all its supporting mods for the cams, ported CJ, TB for the CJ, CAI for the CJ, aftermarket hood or steeda motor mounts to lower the engine so it will fit, an ATI super dampner, headers, and the cost of labor the cost was over $7,560 so far. And that is just cams and a ported CJ setup and an ATI. I already have a tune on E85 and supporting suspension mods so i didnt need to include that in the cost, but if you are starting near stock you will end up spending near another $1,000 on those items. So now you are looking at an $8,560 build. The article i believe you are referencing is for a gen 3 motor, not the gen 2 you have, and on top of that it as a gen 3 on an engine stand not in the car. Even if it wasnt i will still reference it since their results on a max effort setup on a gen 3 will be great for comparison. It was a Motortrend article and they used comps stage 3 cams with ported CJ and all the rest and ended up with 600 but at the crank, on a gen 3. I highly, highly doubt you will ever make near that to the rear on a gen 2 engine and you'll spend 8.5k. Ive never seen ANY gen coyote making 600 or 650 rwhp fully NA without nitrous or boost. Now im not throwing the blower argument here since i myself am also not going FI and staying NA, but 8.5k spent to get less HP than even the cheapest boost setup is a pretty dumb idea IMO. The thing you should look at instead is doing the basic mods in sequence and maybe capping out at a ported CJ setup on E85 with suspension and tire. With seat time this combo will run very nice times at the track regardless of what it dyno's and you wont spend all your cash to do it. Just my 2 cents, but trust me i went down your road and spent weeks researching this topic and cataloged every single part i would need for it to be a reliable setup and the price is staggering. In the end staring at the numbers to only make 600 at the crank on a gen 3 coyote its just not worth it at all. Theres a very good reason you only see FBO coyotes, nitrous coyotes, or boosted coyotes. Not true max effort NA builds. Good luck.

500 whp is a solid target for Gen 2. You can get there on E85 with cams, CJ manifold and longtubes. That's still a very expensive package ($2000 cams, $1500 CJ setup, $300 injectors, $1500 headers). OPG and CG, tuner and tune you'd pay either way, so you're talking about a $5300-5500 NA build vs $6000 low boost blower, and the latter will make more power.

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