Do you have audio questions?

[HextallS550]

Oh the deadening debate LOL!

I can see doing the rear deck in your case, but not to prevent flex, adding actual structural material would be better IF you have flex. I'm going to use two Hybrid Audio subs mounted to the rear deck with CNC'd aluminum rings. I'm also going to do the GT350R rear seat delete and use something to cover the ski hole. I have a large piece of carbon fiber from a front splitter on one our road race cars. I thought of cutting it down and using it or it will just go in the scarp pile, LOL.

From an engineering testing standpoint, where we deal in reality and testing and results and NOT theory, (I base my advice around this) there are areas that need certain materials and areas where myths have taken hold, such as adding layer upon layer of Dynamat like material to the floor pan because you saw someone do it.

So, why is spending money on rear speakers a waste? If adding an amp, should we keep the factory speakers there, or install woofers instead of coaxials?

You have to step back and understand what stereo is; left and right information that when combined and processed by your ears and brain creates an image, this image has height and depth and placement of certain sounds (instruments for example or a voice).
Because stereo ONLY consists of L/R information adding drivers behind you skews this imaging. It pulls the information rearward.
I hate to talk in competition terms but the best cars over the years have always had a strong front stage sometimes even incorporating their sub-bass up front as well. The old analogy of "You wouldn't go to a concert and face rearwards or turn sideways would you" may be an easier way to think of this.
In home audio where 5.1 or 7.2 or 23.5 or whatever BS they come up with next, rear speakers make sense because that information they receive is not simply L/R. It's RR and LR. The source material is recorded and mastered with this information. Yes there are processors for 5.1 in a car and if you're going to invest in a DSP you can consider that. But if your primary goal is CD's, digital rips on your phone, SAT or FM HD it's pointless because that information was recorded L/R NOT FL/C/FR, RR/RL, SUB.

Another possibility in the car that has worked for people in the past was 3.1. AudioControl made an awesome little processor called the Model 90 or 25, I forget which. It took the L/R info from your decks output and seperated and synthesized it so that it's RCA out puts would be fed to you amplifier with L/R info and the internal amp in Model 90 would power the center channel and provide it's C information.

Sponsored

 

[Ugly John]

Hextall - Thanks for the reply.

So, should I disconnect the rear speakers? Or go ahead and hook them up to the new amp and not drive them hard? Is it worth adding 6.5" woofers there for some bass since I'm not looking to add a sub at this point? What would your suggestion be for front speakers for the base 6-speaker system? I'll be adding an amp - looking at about 125 Wx4.

 

[HextallS550]

You can do what SQ_S550 and i are doing and use two 6.5 or 8 subs in the deck, upgrade the 6.5 in the door and the pillar tweeter.

I like stereo subs, that's of course another debate, but in your case you could take advantage of the multitude of DVC subs and get a dual 4 ohm 6.5 or 8 subs and run the amp 125x2 @ 4 ohm up front and 250-300. x 2 @ 2 ohms in the rear. But I would highly recommend planning on a sub only amp so that your front components are active and you have control of their level, phase, xo points, ER and time alignment.

 

[Ugly John]

So the 5 channel amp would be overkill if I went that route.

It sounds like I could use the 5 channel amp to run the 2 front speakers, then the single sub channel from the amp to run 2 sub in the rear deck. Am I close?

If that's the case, I have 2 channels that I am paying for but not using.

Any recommendations for subs that would fit and that would get me to either 2 ohms or 4 ohms total? A quick look shows they run like $150 each! :eyebulge:

What about something like these?

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CWRT672/Kicker-CompRT-43CWRT672.html?tp=111


Just when I think I have things figured out...:frusty:

 

[HextallS550]

No, run the 5 channel active.
Ch 1&2 Tweeters
Ch 3&4 Door mids
Ch 5 bridged to subs

$150 is cheap for a sub.

 

[SQ_S550]

I wouldn't say it's a waste, it just really depends on your end goals with a system. if you just want to crank and rock out rear speakers will be a great addition. if your goal is concert sound you can add a rear fill and a DSP unit to help create some reverb to male it believable.

Listeners like myself do not use a rear fill because we are trying to create a lifelike stage on the dashboard of the car. add in a rear fill in this situation does 2 things. It will draw the stage down and closer to you, both things you want to avoid.

Personally I will always recommend a stronger front stage over adding a rear fill because that is where the driver sits, in front and most people are on a budget. Now if someone has a 5k budget and just wants to rock out I'd have no problem reccomending a rear stage. My only stipulation is the speaker will be on the same level as the fronts so timbre will match.

 

[SQ_S550]

You can do what SQ_S550 and i are doing and use two 6.5 or 8 subs in the deck, upgrade the 6.5 in the door and the pillar tweeter.

I'm actually going to try squeezing an 18" woofer in for an IB install.:eyebulge:

 

[RoyaalT]

From OEM to Diamond audio

As I said earlier there are a few other guys that seem to know what they are doing. If there are audio questions feel free to shoot them on the forum as you can feel confident that myself or one of the other knowledgeable members will point you in the right direction.

I would like to improve the audio a bit. Diamond audio makes small powerful amplifiers. Can I replace my oem with this?

 

[mfenske]

I'm in the same boat brother
Audiofrog 3 GB 3 way
A trio of Try Technologies billet amps
Eithier a Stereo Integitry HT18 in an IB configuration or 2 Audiofrog GB12" woofers.

It will be built to compete in IASCA.

You are my hero. I'm thinking of a Mustang next spring and going a very similar direction.:hail:

 

[mumbles]

So the 5 channel amp would be overkill if I went that route.

It sounds like I could use the 5 channel amp to run the 2 front speakers, then the single sub channel from the amp to run 2 sub in the rear deck. Am I close?

If that's the case, I have 2 channels that I am paying for but not using.

Any recommendations for subs that would fit and that would get me to either 2 ohms or 4 ohms total? A quick look shows they run like $150 each! :eyebulge:

What about something like these?

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_206CWRT672/Kicker-CompRT-43CWRT672.html?tp=111


Just when I think I have things figured out...:frusty:

This is my 2cents on the compact subs; Sure they would fit in the rear deck, but at only 82.5 dbs, they are not terribly efficient and you would likely have to crank on them to get subwoofer-like output.

In my opinion, take your time and don't rush into anything, easiest way I know to double your budget is to rush and buy something only to find out it wasn't really what you wanted or needed. The PG amp will be fine, just sample some speakers to see what sounds good to you. The sub channel will be there waiting for you... ask your installers if they have any demo vehicles and bring some music that you like to listen to.

BTW, I also replied to your questions over on diyma.com...

 

[mumbles]

I would like to improve the audio a bit. Diamond audio makes small powerful amplifiers. Can I replace my oem with this?

Do you mean physically as in "would it fit"?

 

[EcoBOSS]

2015 EcoBoost Premium 201a Shaker (12 speaker) system:
1. Are the front speaker inputs (6.5", 3.5", 1" tweeter) band-pass or full range?
2. If band-pass, what frequency ranges?
3. Assuming rear speakers are "full range" since they are 2 way, but do they have a bass blocker?
4. Center dash speaker (3.5"), is this a DSP thing or simple summing (L+, R+) connection?

Goal is upgrading speakers (Focal 6PS-2 + Focal K2 Power 100KRS?) without having to tear the car apart or add additional components (DSP/Amp/Crossovers) while still keeping stereo separation and imaging.
Thanks!

 

[SQ_S550]

2015 EcoBoost Premium 201a Shaker (12 speaker) system:
1. Are the front speaker inputs (6.5", 3.5", 1" tweeter) band-pass or full range?
2. If band-pass, what frequency ranges?
3. Assuming rear speakers are "full range" since they are 2 way, but do they have a bass blocker?
4. Center dash speaker (3.5"), is this a DSP thing or simple summing (L+, R+) connection?

Goal is upgrading speakers (Focal 6PS-2 + Focal K2 Power 100KRS?) without having to tear the car apart or add additional components (DSP/Amp/Crossovers) while still keeping stereo separation and imaging.
Thanks!

If stereo separation is your end goal, forego the rears and center and concentrate on the front left and right as you have planned. The limiting factor will still be the OEM eq curve and the lack of time alignment though.

 

[Quackfoo]

OK, so I'm gearing up for my build and install. So if I remove the processing from the factory 9 speaker ACM am I going to need to buy a separate DSP or is it going to sound good as is? I'm still kind of leaning towards replacing the headunit though I don't really want to buy the metra kit. I don't like their hvac control replacement.

 

[mumbles]

2015 EcoBoost Premium 201a Shaker (12 speaker) system:
1. Are the front speaker inputs (6.5", 3.5", 1" tweeter) band-pass or full range?
2. If band-pass, what frequency ranges?
3. Assuming rear speakers are "full range" since they are 2 way, but do they have a bass blocker?
4. Center dash speaker (3.5"), is this a DSP thing or simple summing (L+, R+) connection?

Goal is upgrading speakers (Focal 6PS-2 + Focal K2 Power 100KRS?) without having to tear the car apart or add additional components (DSP/Amp/Crossovers) while still keeping stereo separation and imaging.
Thanks!

We know that the ACM does some signal manipulation (DSP) and until the addition of the diagrams in the thread below, I had assumed that crossover functions were handled by the ACM as well, but that thread seems to indicate some DSP activity might also occur in the amp. http://www.mustang6g.com/forums/showthread.php?t=79770

Since I haven't measured the freq range of the signal, I can't say for sure where the crossover functions are done or what the freq ranges are.

Now that I have that disclaimer out of the way :doh: I'll say this;
In my estimation, the front 6.5's are probably band passed while the 3.5's and tweeters receive a high pass signal that is low freq limited. The tweeters additionally have a high pass capacitor on them. The coaxes in the rear likely receive a full range signal, possibly attenuated on the bottom end, and the tweeters would also have a cap on them limiting the lows.

As for the center channel, it would be pure speculation on my part, so I'll refrain from commenting.

Sponsored