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Yes, WELL worth the install. The solid/planted feel of the rear is so much better.

Old thread, but I found it so to help someone else: https://www.bmrsuspension.com/siteart/install/BK051.pdf P.S. Don't trust the ones in the box, verify with the link above.

The link provided (but not printed and boxed with my parts) is different from the kit provided - far better. Apparently, I got a "transition kit" with the old directions and new "un-indexed" parts. Other than the un-notched Poly bushings, or the recommendation for using Loctite (another change...

Ditto... No parts inventory. Directions are incomplete at best. My bushings did not have ANY notches and would not "align" at all. The front ones were so bad they would not align and the bolt could even be started. I wasn't willing to modify brand new parts, so they all went back in the box.

BMR Cradle Bushing Lockout Kit, Level 2 (CB005B) Steeda Mustang Alignment Kit for the S550 Rear Subframe for BMR CB005 (555-4447) NVH increased - Sounds and feels like it has 4 MacPherson struts instead of 2. Rear is louder, imperfections in the road surface (especially surface...

6'3" with the full power leather seats (50th Ann Appearance Package) and no room for a helmet (touches headliner). #TheStruggleIsReal

High pressure fuel line that spews gasoline as long as the engine is turning? I find it hard to believe someone on here doesn't have the service procedure on this... Ford probably recommends replacing the line if the fittings are turned...

No one? Not encouraging... :(

Looks like the height is going to be an issue. I'll know this weekend, but the speaker surround is higher than the base of the rear windshield. This would not be an issue with stamped steel basket speakers [i.e.: Kicker] as they are much thinner than composite framed speakers.

No, but if it is a standard RH thread, I'd be willing to try...

Yeah, one of the few performance part "safe bets" from FleaBay. It's a pipe, it has bends, they weld. That being said, I think I'd DEI Thermal Wrap that, just to hide it... :) Scored a used KRONA Catted pipe locally, GREAT MOD. Top of the list (if catted).

Inquiring minds and all... Who's got what? Anyone do these? Tips on pulling the fuel rail? Couldn't break the fitting loose from the HPFP, so I stopped. Thx

I finally settled on the tweeters that came in the component set - Polk MM6501 1" tweeter required some grinding to fit because I wanted to show off the Polk housing. If I pulled them apart, I probably could have hid them in the factory holes. Rears: 2 Ohm factory, added 4 Ohm for a couple...

Purchased a Dorman piece with an integral drain plug.

It may not be designed that way, but it does work that way. The factory BPV is cheap plastic with a weak spring and the factory electronic signal to the BPV is used to vent boost during no load throttle revs, torque limiting and WOT to reduce customer noise complaints, and protect the warranty...

I'm old school - I cut my teeth on Old parts catalogs, cross reference manuals and The Hollander Interchange Guides.. ;) Dorman $8 NAPA $12 Motorcraft Complete part $26 Ford Dealer $56 Your call, I have no dog in this fight. Besides, I used the factory ends to create a custom hose for a PCV...

Those chunks on/near the filter in the photo look like RTV boogers...

Looks very RTVish... :facepalm:

Look! Chunks! Thanks for the pix.

Separator (entire part with ring and PCV Valve): FR3Z-6A785-A This is the LRU (Lowest Replaceable Unit), Ford doesn't sell the parts separately. The PCV to Manifold hose ("Vent Hose" - FR3Z-6A664-A, MOTORCRAFT KCV280) is the same way - they do NOT sell the plastic clips by themselves.