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Burkey

Burkey

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Looks amazing, and yeah modding the K-brace we get is needed for some blowers.

Ive got a Lund tune and apart from them working in US business hours they were really good doing my tune too.
Never really had a drama in the past. Turns out Brandon may have gone a little dyslexic when he inputted my device serial number. Updated tune arrived at 3.30am. Here I am, drinking coffee at 4am, making sure it works this time:headbonk::lol:
It works :usa:

Fortunately I don’t need to mod the K-brace, just the plastic shroud. It only just touches.
I put the lowered mounts in about 12 months ago in anticipation of the Whipple.
I read somewhere (possibly UK forum) that 1/2” lower would provide adequate clearance for the Whipple.
What they don’t tell you is that aside from causing potential header clash on the steering column (false knock) our Aussie cars (or at least mine) will also rub on other parts where it shouldn’t (hint: remove ALL the plastic shrouds under the engine and you’ll see what’s going on)
With the mounts I’m running the engine doesn’t move around anywhere near as much as it can on the stock mounts so in this case it doesn’t require much clearance. I can’t say for sure how much would need to be removed if on stock mounts.
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Burkey

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Notes for those contemplating doing the Oil Pump Gear/Crank Sprocket install:
Sorry for the lack of pics, I was damn busy and covered in shite.

I went with Boundary OPG/CS.
The crank sprocket doesn’t have the index mark on it like the OEM sprocket (and others).
Also, the machining of the keyway left a little to be desired. The sprocket wouldn’t slide onto the crank all the way. A little filing sorted it out. This had me worrried that they may have cut the teeth at a different alignment to the spline. Can confirm that it was fine.
Do yourself a favour and just go MMR or TSS or whatever.

No dramas with the OPG.

Now, Ford have a pretty strict method for timing the cams. I looked at it and worked out pretty quickly that the whole reason for their method (which is tedious and potentially confusing for noobs) is to get visibility of the index mark which sits at about the 7 o’clock position when the keyway is at 12 o’clock.

My method is far simpler. Leave the damn crank where it is. You’ll need to rock it slightly to get the chains back on but as long as the coloured links (pictured) line up with the indexes on the crank sprocket and the cam, you’ll be fine.

A dab with a paint pen on the teeth of the crank sprocket and your camera phone in selfie mode will make a WORLD of difference to getting it right.
Plenty of people have used my method but failed to do the paint pen part and due to the shitty location of the index mark, they end up a tooth out. Don’t do that!

Finally, no, I didn’t get coolant in the oil. Rags were removed for photos.
8E4BD861-E861-4B92-B82C-094993F50437.jpeg
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WOW, what a huge job and everything has to be done perfectly. Hat's off to you Burkey! Something I wouldn't have ever thought of attempting. I assume you have other wheels as the car has been in the workshop for some time now.

I really hope it all works out as well as you wish. And just out of interest, how much of a mechanical background do you have?
 
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WOW, what a huge job and everything has to be done perfectly. Hat's off to you Burkey! Something I wouldn't have ever thought of attempting. I assume you have other wheels as the car has been in the workshop for some time now.

I really hope it all works out as well as you wish. And just out of interest, how much of a mechanical background do you have?
Thanks mate.
No other vehicle. This is it. Just did it all in the garage at home. Took the week off work so I had plenty of time for both the mechanical and the tuning revision process with Lund.

My background:
Started racing karts at 10 years of age. The old man insisted that it was just as important to learn to wrench as it was to drive. He was absolutely right.
Learned a LOT of lessons from that over the years. Precision is a BIG deal when prepping a race kart. You don’t have enough HP to throw away.
Obviously I had all the tools at my disposal already except for a couple of items.

At the end of the day, if you understand HOW things work, you’re in a good position to be able to MAKE them work. :cheers:
 
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Language warning. Sorry, but this is what happens when I speak :shrug:
I don’t care how good you are or if you double or triple checked EVERYTHING, there always that moment of doubt when you press the button.

 

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Language warning. Sorry, but this is what happens when I speak :shrug:
I don’t care how good you are or if you double or triple checked EVERYTHING, there always that moment of doubt when you press the button.
Bloody awesome stuff mate
 
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Bloody awesome stuff mate
Thanks Ciaran.
I’m just trying to increase the knowledge base as much as I can.
If it helps one person to make a better decision, I’m stoked. :cheers:
 
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Onto the logging process.
In short, Lund wanted a couple of minutes of idle, then hold 3 x different rpm whilst stationary, then a couple of GENTLE pulls (no boost) from 2500 - 5000, a bit of driving and then a few minutes of idle again.
Logged all that and sent it off this afternoon. The revision will arrive at some ridiculous hour tonight/tomorrow morning.

The base tune is VERY nice. No jerking, no bullshit. They’re just using the logs to get it closer before we can commence WOT tuning, yes, then it’ll be boost time!
:headbang:
 

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Thanks Ciaran.
I’m just trying to increase the knowledge base as much as I can.
If it helps one person to make a better decision, I’m stoked. :cheers:
Well it's certainly got me Googling superchargers and considering cashflow (something I had been trying to ignore since I got the Mustang!)
 

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Looking good, pity it takes you a full day to do one revision because of the timing. Plus tomorrow is the 4th......damn Brits!

Who at Lund is doing your tuning?
 

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Well it's certainly got me Googling superchargers and considering cashflow (something I had been trying to ignore since I got the Mustang!)
Mustangs and overflowing bank accounts don’t seem to co-exist unfortunately.
It’s one or the other :doh:
Fire away if you have questions :thumbsup:
 
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Looking good, pity it takes you a full day to do one revision because of the timing. Plus tomorrow is the 4th......damn Brits!

Who at Lund is doing your tuning?
Brandon’s on the case.
Yup, sucks with the time delay. I just realised it’s July 4th too...:doh:
Might have to do a 5am log and hope it falls into the queue early enough.
 
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Initial logs complete.
I was allowed to go into boost on the most recent one. Basically a third gear WOT pull from 2500-7500.
It absolutley HAULS. Just keeps building power the whole way. Relentless is the word.
First and second gear are now completely redundant at anything around half throttle at pretty much any revs. This is excellent. :headbang:

A slight hesitation when going WOT from low revs in third. Third may join the list of previous gears once it’s sorted.
We’re looking into it. Not sure if the bypass valve could be the culprit or possibly the tune needs a slight change. Nothing serious either way.
We’ll get on top of it.
 

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funny you mention hesitation from low rpm and going to WOT with a lund tune. I've been complaining to them for the last couple of weeks about it and all I get back is "the logs look fine its all very happy"

i'm like it feels like someone just jumped on the brakes for a split second it just nosedives then up and fucks off
 
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funny you mention hesitation from low rpm and going to WOT with a lund tune. I've been complaining to them for the last couple of weeks about it and all I get back is "the logs look fine its all very happy"

i'm like it feels like someone just jumped on the brakes for a split second it just nosedives then up and fucks off
Well...
Mine doesn’t dive but it certainly doesn’t do anything for that first second or so. I’ve got a mate who’s VERY handy with this stufff so I’ll get him to take a look also.

Who is your calibrator at Lund?
Also, I’m very pleased that it “fucks off” :lol:
Be kinda disappointing if it didn’t
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