DIY Whipple on a budget (of sorts).

[SVT-DADDY]

Thanks. I have the base file already. Figured I’d load that as soon as I start pulling things apart just to be sure that it’s going to load properly. Issues are rare but they CAN happen. I’d rather find out days before I need it though. :cheers:

I did the same. With something like this I always like to do as much with "clean hands" as possible.

Your next log will be a pull to 6k. Then the fun starts. My car with 305/35/20's and 3.31's was hitting the mid 120's @7800 in third gear. Hopefully you have less traffic on the roads down under!

Sponsored

 

[Burkey]

It’s all happening.
Reinstalled the diff-bush inserts and jammed a Whiteline gearbox/crossmember bush in. The factory diff bushes were showing signs of wear already, most likely from hard launches on the strip with the bias plies. Not sure how they’d hold up in “normal” duties.
No extra noise from the Whiteline insert but I can’t prove it’s worth until I head to the strip next time.

As far as the engine’s concerned, I followed Whipple’s instructions for what they wanted removed and then just continued on from there, removing bits for the OPG/CS install.
If you were just installing the supercharger you wouldn’t have half of this mess.

The best online resource I’ve seen for DIY OPG/CS install is here:
https://www.*******************/for...let-oil-pump-gears-install-a-few-pics.994775/

I won’t bother expanding on that too much cos it pretty much covers all of it.
I will say that it is NOT something you’d want to attempt if you’re inexperienced.
Just pay the cash and get it done by a pro. Ideally someone who’s done it before.
It’s a LOT of work, it’s frustrating at times and you really need some time on your side to get it done.

I’ve spent maybe 5 hours getting the car to where you see in the pic. Timing chains and oil pump still to be removed ad then reassembly of course.

 

[GT 550]

Awesome work Burkey, keep at it mate. Respect for taking the time to share it

 

[Burkey]

I’m trying. :cheers:

 

[Burkey]

For those contemplating doing the Oil Pump Gear/Crank Sprocket...
There’s one bolt on the oil pick-up tube that’s pretty much impossible to hold in position and tighten. You’ll know the one when you get to it. The only method I’ve heard of is to punch the bolt through a piece of electrical tape to stop it falling in the sump when you inevitably drop it.
I came up with this. You’re welcome.

 

[SVT-DADDY]

I was given a tool kit by an old WW2 vet, he was a mechanic.

He had that exact contraption in his kit. He must not have copyrighted it! lol

Looking good, I miss the days of my install. Now all I can do is drive the thing and mess with Hellcats.... :(

 

[Burkey]

I was given a tool kit by an old WW2 vet, he was a mechanic.

He had that exact contraption in his kit. He must not have copyrighted it! lol

Looking good, I miss the days of my install. Now all I can do is drive the thing and mess with Hellcats.... :(

Just think of the money he could’ve made :doh:
I’ve enjoyed most of the install so far, just not that friggin bolt. I had to alter my definition of “difficult” for that one addle:
I don’t think I’ll miss not doing that again ;)

 

[Burkey]

Just an update pic.
With OPG/CS done, it’s all smooth sailing from here.
Lower manifold/intercooler in place ready for fuel rails.

 

[SVT-DADDY]

Looking good...O ring is in the right spot! Those coil plugs are kind of a pita arent they?


Be forewarned.... The manifold to blower gasket requires copious grease and patience. It stayed in place after about the 10th try. My fear was that it would come out of the groove just as I lowered the blower on.



PS you have your battery on the wrong side!

 

[Burkey]

Looking good...O ring is in the right spot! Those coil plugs are kind of a pita arent they?


Be forewarned.... The manifold to blower gasket requires copious grease and patience. It stayed in place after about the 10th try. My fear was that it would come out of the groove just as I lowered the blower on.



PS you have your battery on the wrong side!

You should see where they put the steering wheel.... :eyebulge:
I honestly don’t understand how people are messing up the bypass O-ring location :shrug:

Yes, the connectors on the coil plugs took a bit of working out :headbonk:
I pushed the two lower manifold gaskets into place about a month ago. They didn’t want to stay there but no issues now. May have stretched them slightly over time. No idea but it works :cheers:

Probably the other thing I noticed was that Whipple have you installing the heater hoses before the lower manifold is in place.
No idea why. It’s not necessary and it just puts more stuff in the way.
I’ll detail the correct sequence once I’m a bit further down the path.

Also, they have you installing the fuel rails before you really need to which just puts them in the way of the lower manifold bolts underneath them...
I see the logic from the standpoint of following a strict torquing sequence but given the low torque values being used, I just did the six bolts for the lower manifold (following the sequence) and then did the fuel rails afterwards.

 

[Burkey]

All done. Just needs the battery cover fitted and a slight trim where the blower meets the plastic panel above the firewall (note: my engine is lowered 1/4”, more trimming required for those that aren’t lowered).

Unfortunately, despite ordering the tune early (in case there was a mishap), I didn’t bother testing it (got caught up in the moment). Seems they got a digit wrong for the Ngauge serial number.
Tune won’t load.
Fortunately, Jon Lund has responded already and I’m expecting a fix as soon as they get in to work today. Excellent customer service as always.
I should’ve taken my own advice

Nothing really to report on the install process. The instructions are generally pretty clear although sometimes slightly out of order.

 

[Burkey]

Had a fiddle with the sound tube too.
It’s just in the testing stage at the moment so it’s not ultra pretty or anything.
Also note that there is no filter/diaphragm fitted, so it’s not even close to legal yet.
I figured it was easiest to keep the OEM adaptor connected to the firewall and just build onto it.
Basically, the aim is to test it out, see if it works at all or maybe even too well :shrug:
If it doesn’t work, it’s in the bin, if it works too well, I’ll maybe add a solenoid so it can be switched on/off from the cabin. It’ll also need a diaphragm or some means of keeping the reversion pulse fumes from ending up in the cabin.

The P-clip that secures the hose is attached through a threaded hole provided by Ford. Works well for those of us that don’t like drilling holes in our cars. :cheers:

The eagle-eyed will spot the UPR clean side oil separator on top of the cam cover. I wouldn’t run a blower without it.

 

[SVT-DADDY]

Looks great! I said the exact same thing about the heater hoses, and why the heck didn't they just supply new ones rather than all those parts and steps in the manual?

I like what you have done with your airbox. I am planning on fiddling with that over the winter. In stock form it's a bit disappointing.

I noticed the UPR piece, are you just running the clean side?

 

[Hellman109]

Looks amazing, and yeah modding the K-brace we get is needed for some blowers.

Ive got a Lund tune and apart from them working in US business hours they were really good doing my tune too.

 

[Burkey]

Looks great! I said the exact same thing about the heater hoses, and why the heck didn't they just supply new ones rather than all those parts and steps in the manual?

I like what you have done with your airbox. I am planning on fiddling with that over the winter. In stock form it's a bit disappointing.

I noticed the UPR piece, are you just running the clean side?

Yeah, the heater hoses are kinda strange. At least they supply good quality stuff to do the modifications with I suppose...

Running UPR both sides. I was runn8ng their setup when I was NA. Just had to order the new hoses for the opposite side and the CSS as seen in the pic.

No idea if the efforts ont he airbox will pay off or not but I suppose sealing the heat out has to be some kind of improvement right? :shrug:
Cheers

Sponsored