Diff bushings, most affordable replacement?

[Metz3020827]

hello everyone, I’ve posted this before but I kind want to see what the best option/affordability for this.

I don’t notice any drivability problems, no weird noises etc but it’s definitely gotten worse since I last posted it and just want some more minds in here to see what the best option/experiences are.

I know people say the pucks (bushing inserts for steeda or alike) are good options and people HAVE put them over torn bushings but mine looks pretty bad at this point.

im aware ford doesn’t make OE bushings so new subframe or aftermarket bushings are the best option.

im sure its a huge job and i have my wedding and honeymoon coming up so spending 2k on just a diff bushing alone replacement seems crazy.

what are my best options? Thanks. Just want some new eyes/experiences of others.

Sponsored

 

[StangTime]

I went with the red Steeda pucks. I put in all 4 and hated the extra noise and driveline clunking. So I removed them all and went with better front bolts with a longer thicker shaft. The bolt shaft now fills the entire hole in the diff mounting and the threads are no longer in shear. The Ford engineer that designed this should fired and his diploma taken away.
See here: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...ts-issues-resolutions-pics.74891/post-2013096

For the rear I put the red pucks back in as my bushing was torn. It's much better this way. Less NVH and still good support for the diff. Ideally removing the entire subframe, cutting out the bushings and replacing with after market would be best. For me that's far more time and effort than I am willing to invest for a little rubber tear.

 

[NightmareMoon]

Cheapest would be new poly replacement bushings and a lot of your own labor, with plenty of NVH after the install. You’ll still need to pay for as much labor as you cant do yourself, an alignment, etc.

To get back to stock nvh, I think you pay for a new ford subframe w/bushings. Then you could maybe reinforce it with the softest inserts available, or just run it OEM without inserts until they tear again some years down the road.

Both routes are a lot of work. The 2nd option is far from cheap.

Easiest and cheapest is to throw on some reinforcing inserts and take your chances with the results. I bet it will be loud, because insert pucks over aged hardened and cracked bushings sounds like a bit of a mess, but maybe its enough peace of mind to keep rollin down the road?

I did a new subframe and also added the stiffest inserts. In retrospect, the NVH is a lot, and I’d probably prefer the medium inserts.

 

[Metz3020827]

Cheapest would be new poly replacement bushings and a lot of your own labor, with plenty of NVH after the install. You’ll still need to pay for as much labor as you cant do yourself, an alignment, etc.

To get back to stock nvh, I think you pay for a new ford subframe w/bushings. Then you could maybe reinforce it with the softest inserts available, or just run it OEM without inserts until they tear again some years down the road.

Both routes are a lot of work. The 2nd option is far from cheap.

Easiest and cheapest is to throw on some reinforcing inserts and take your chances with the results. I bet it will be loud, because insert pucks over aged hardened and cracked bushings sounds like a bit of a mess, but maybe its enough peace of mind to keep rollin down the road?

I did a new subframe and also added the stiffest inserts. In retrospect, the NVH is a lot, and I’d probably prefer the medium inserts.

I was thinking of doing just the rear steeda pucks. The red ones.

any input on that?

the labor on a new subframe would be insane. Such a bad design (the reason the diff bushing tears I mean)

 

[Metz3020827]

I went with the red Steeda pucks. I put in all 4 and hated the extra noise and driveline clunking. So I removed them all and went with better front bolts with a longer thicker shaft. The bolt shaft now fills the entire hole in the diff mounting and the threads are no longer in shear. The Ford engineer that designed this should fired and his diploma taken away.
See here: https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/th...ts-issues-resolutions-pics.74891/post-2013096

For the rear I put the red pucks back in as my bushing was torn. It's much better this way. Less NVH and still good support for the diff. Ideally removing the entire subframe, cutting out the bushings and replacing with after market would be best. For me that's far more time and effort than I am willing to invest for a little rubber tear.

I was thinking of doing just the red pucks on just the rear diff bushings. The rest of the bushings are good to go. Just the driver side rear is the torn one.

 

[StangTime]

I was thinking of doing just the red pucks on just the rear diff bushings. The rest of the bushings are good to go. Just the driver side rear is the torn one.

Same as mine. Do just the rear pucks. The install is pretty straight forward. Getting the cradle low enough for the fronts is a huge bitch. So unless you need stronger bolts there for drag racing or hard launching, you'll be ok with the front OEM hardware.

 

[Metz3020827]

Same as mine. Do just the rear pucks. The install is pretty straight forward. Getting the cradle low enough for the fronts is a huge bitch. So unless you need stronger bolts there for drag racing or hard launching, you'll be ok with the front OEM hardware.

Yeah I don’t launch the car ever, just a pull here and there. And I can just do the rear ones on the ground right? I see some install videos that loosen up the subframe just a bit to get more room but idk if you really have to?

 

[StangTime]

Yeah I don’t launch the car ever, just a pull here and there. And I can just do the rear ones on the ground right? I see some install videos that loosen up the subframe just a bit to get more room but idk if you really have to?

You will need jack stands to have the car off the ground. You need enough clearance to get under it so you can lower the sub frame enough to clear the spare tire tub. It has to tilt toward the read so you will need to loosen the front subframe mounts and lower it a bit then remove the rear subframe mounts while supporting the subframe with a couple of pump jacks.

 

[NightmareMoon]

I was thinking of doing just the rear steeda pucks. The red ones.

any input on that?

the labor on a new subframe would be insane. Such a bad design (the reason the diff bushing tears I mean)

Yeah try the reds. The labor does suck. These problems exist on any sports car with some mileage, but the boat anchor heavy weight of the chassis makes it all worse.

 

[Metz3020827]

You will need jack stands to have the car off the ground. You need enough clearance to get under it so you can lower the sub frame enough to clear the spare tire tub. It has to tilt toward the read so you will need to loosen the front subframe mounts and lower it a bit then remove the rear subframe mounts while supporting the subframe with a couple of pump jacks.

And that’s for just the rear pucks??

 

[StangTime]

And that’s for just the rear pucks??

Yes. Watch some you tube videos. You will see how to do it.

 

[DougS550]

I will inspect my rear diffs and if I see any tears I will replace with Whiteline Street diff bushings. Good luck

 

[K4fxd]

Whiteline Street diff bushings. Good luck

Do they still make them?

 

[K4fxd]

Easiest way to lower the subframe is to use some all thread. The kit linked below has everything you need to lower about 4 inches.


https://www.beefcakeracing.com/kti-...htFHTYkD_qy5pJf6DM5KwStZgp_6W_lRoCGsMQAvD_BwE

 

[DougS550]

Do they still make them?

I hope so but, I bought a set last winter and never installed them. All I know from my research was they offered bushings which were stronger than OEM with little increase if any at all NVH. I got rid of my BMR camber, Toe and Verticle links/arms due to squeaking and popping. My AAD has Zero Squeaks or pops. And my A10 shifts hard into gear and it is tight. From what I seen; most companies selling diff bushings, camber, tow arms use Poly which add quite a bit of NVH. But most don't care about increases in NVH as long as they tighten up their suspension keeping their car running straight and tight. Everything has trade offs when it comes to any mod. Good luck

Sponsored