Yeah he kept saying he specialized in import cars as if he didn't know anything about the mustangs or something. I might try someone else next time. When dynoing, which drive mode is best to use with a manual transmission, sport, track, drag...? Also is 4th gear the correct gear to use? I need to know this in case my next dyno guy doesn't know what he's doing either...Your dyno guy should know to pull the plug on the drivers side by your air box.
Nope.......good to know........but if they don't know what they are doing, leave and never go back.Yeah he kept saying he specialized in import cars as if he didn't know anything about the mustangs or something. I might try someone else next time. When dynoing, which drive mode is best to use with a manual transmission, sport, track, drag...? Also is 4th gear the correct gear to use? I need to know this in case my next dyno guy doesn't know what he's doing either...
Wow, that's really early. I'm old school when it comes to break-in. 1000 mile minimum especially if you are going to push it to the limit. Maybe this was a blessing in disguise. Also even though it would be best that you know everything in advance find yourself someone that specializes in Mustangs. This way your covered on both sides.Around 600
Yeah I admit it wasn't the most responsible thing to dyno it so early, but I got excited and couldn't wait.Wow, that's really early. I'm old school when it comes to break-in. 1000 mile minimum especially if you are going to push it to the limit. Maybe this was a blessing in disguise. Also even though it would be best that you know everything in advance find yourself someone that specializes in Mustangs. This way your covered on both sides.
OK, beat it from mile one guys, have at it.
On the 2018+, 4th is 1:1 so that it the gear to dyno in. Doesn't matter which drive mode.Yeah he kept saying he specialized in import cars as if he didn't know anything about the mustangs or something. I might try someone else next time. When dynoing, which drive mode is best to use with a manual transmission, sport, track, drag...? Also is 4th gear the correct gear to use? I need to know this in case my next dyno guy doesn't know what he's doing either...
How could the software make a change to the boost? The boost is determined mechanically by the volume of the rotors and the speed at which they are spinning. The only thing that changes boost pressure is RPMs and pulley size.You should be at least at 600plus. The Roush program releases 2psi of boost after 1000 miles but the numbers you are showing aren’t even consistent with a stock coyote.
Its not possible in the way you are thinking, however they limit torque, they limit RPM, they limit speed, they for a lot of nanny protection crap that kills that package through their sorry excuse for a tune. Speaking from first hand experience, not second hand gossip. By limiting RPM and torque by pulling timing the head unit will not spin up as fast so the differential pressure is not as drastic. They can also restrict how far open the TB is allowed to go as well. Torque based throttle control looks at a lot of things so the tuner can actually set up a strategy to limit or begin closing the TB as a certain level in the RPM band if they choose. I doubt they use any data from the OD to change anything. That is something I have never heard of. They are likely selling you wolf bait. In all reality that is just how the car will run on their tune. In short get it retuned if you want to enjoy the full fruits of your investment nce you feel comfortable the engine is broken in to your liking.How could the software make a change to the boost? The boost is determined mechanically by the volume of the rotors and the speed at which they are spinning. The only thing that changes boost pressure is RPMs and pulley size.
Nope. At least in my 3.0T Q5 the blower has a bypass valve that regulates boost pressure. The stock blower can output X PSI of boost but the stock tune limits it to X-Y PSI by bleeding boost.How could the software make a change to the boost? The boost is determined mechanically by the volume of the rotors and the speed at which they are spinning. The only thing that changes boost pressure is RPMs and pulley size.
Yeah I used the wrong term, its a bypass valve, not a blow off valve, I couldn't think of the right word.^^^ Your 3.0T Q whatever euro vehicle isn't a common muscle car design. There is a bypass valve on OEM and aftermarket PD blowers (aftermarket edelbrock, Roush, VMP, Whipple, Magneson) that is vacuum actuated but no blow off valve like on a turbo setup. It simply vents boost pressure when throttle is released. Its not designed to regulate it. What douchebag buying an aftermarket supercharger would want to limit the boost level on it in any other method other than pulley up or down?