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dealer installed roush supercharger

hossman

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Ahh that makes sense
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hossman

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Your dyno guy should know to pull the plug on the drivers side by your air box.
 
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okitsme

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Your dyno guy should know to pull the plug on the drivers side by your air box.
Yeah he kept saying he specialized in import cars as if he didn't know anything about the mustangs or something. I might try someone else next time. When dynoing, which drive mode is best to use with a manual transmission, sport, track, drag...? Also is 4th gear the correct gear to use? I need to know this in case my next dyno guy doesn't know what he's doing either...
 

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Yeah he kept saying he specialized in import cars as if he didn't know anything about the mustangs or something. I might try someone else next time. When dynoing, which drive mode is best to use with a manual transmission, sport, track, drag...? Also is 4th gear the correct gear to use? I need to know this in case my next dyno guy doesn't know what he's doing either...
Nope.......good to know........but if they don't know what they are doing, leave and never go back.
 

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Bikeman315

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Around 600
Wow, that's really early. I'm old school when it comes to break-in. 1000 mile minimum especially if you are going to push it to the limit. Maybe this was a blessing in disguise. Also even though it would be best that you know everything in advance find yourself someone that specializes in Mustangs. This way your covered on both sides.

OK, beat it from mile one guys, have at it. :facepalm:
 
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okitsme

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Wow, that's really early. I'm old school when it comes to break-in. 1000 mile minimum especially if you are going to push it to the limit. Maybe this was a blessing in disguise. Also even though it would be best that you know everything in advance find yourself someone that specializes in Mustangs. This way your covered on both sides.

OK, beat it from mile one guys, have at it. :facepalm:
Yeah I admit it wasn't the most responsible thing to dyno it so early, but I got excited and couldn't wait.
 

Bluelightning

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Yeah he kept saying he specialized in import cars as if he didn't know anything about the mustangs or something. I might try someone else next time. When dynoing, which drive mode is best to use with a manual transmission, sport, track, drag...? Also is 4th gear the correct gear to use? I need to know this in case my next dyno guy doesn't know what he's doing either...
On the 2018+, 4th is 1:1 so that it the gear to dyno in. Doesn't matter which drive mode.
 

Brazos609

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You should be at least at 600plus. The Roush program releases 2psi of boost after 1000 miles but the numbers you are showing aren’t even consistent with a stock coyote.
How could the software make a change to the boost? The boost is determined mechanically by the volume of the rotors and the speed at which they are spinning. The only thing that changes boost pressure is RPMs and pulley size.
 

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ugstang17

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How could the software make a change to the boost? The boost is determined mechanically by the volume of the rotors and the speed at which they are spinning. The only thing that changes boost pressure is RPMs and pulley size.
Its not possible in the way you are thinking, however they limit torque, they limit RPM, they limit speed, they for a lot of nanny protection crap that kills that package through their sorry excuse for a tune. Speaking from first hand experience, not second hand gossip. By limiting RPM and torque by pulling timing the head unit will not spin up as fast so the differential pressure is not as drastic. They can also restrict how far open the TB is allowed to go as well. Torque based throttle control looks at a lot of things so the tuner can actually set up a strategy to limit or begin closing the TB as a certain level in the RPM band if they choose. I doubt they use any data from the OD to change anything. That is something I have never heard of. They are likely selling you wolf bait. In all reality that is just how the car will run on their tune. In short get it retuned if you want to enjoy the full fruits of your investment nce you feel comfortable the engine is broken in to your liking.

OP your dyno number is also weak because the car likely cut out due to being limited to 135 MPH. A lower gear allowing the pull through to their 7200 red line (if its that) would likely be very low as well.
 

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dang it i forgot about the plug to pull .. i thought maybe they had the dyno brake on to much ive seen that first hand at a few dyno days ive been to
 

TheSnowmanMafia

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How could the software make a change to the boost? The boost is determined mechanically by the volume of the rotors and the speed at which they are spinning. The only thing that changes boost pressure is RPMs and pulley size.
Nope. At least in my 3.0T Q5 the blower has a bypass valve that regulates boost pressure. The stock blower can output X PSI of boost but the stock tune limits it to X-Y PSI by bleeding boost.

That's why tuning a factory supercharged car unlocks like 100hp in the Audi world.
 

ugstang17

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^^^ Your 3.0T Q whatever euro vehicle isn't a common muscle car design. There is a bypass valve on OEM and aftermarket PD blowers (aftermarket edelbrock, Roush, VMP, Whipple, Magneson) that is vacuum actuated but no blow off valve like on a turbo setup. It simply vents boost pressure when throttle is released. Its not designed to regulate it. What douchebag buying an aftermarket supercharger would want to limit the boost level on it in any other method other than pulley up or down?

While this may be done in the euro world of automotive it does not apply here. To do that a proportional driven valve would need to be added to the system. Then programming would be required to establish a PID that would control it and the circumstances of when and how much. Yes it could be done but its not done in the American muscle car world. We seek power not engine management only to be manipulated by pointy headed engineers wearing small glasses, black leather jackets, black dress shoes and going by the name Wolfgang.
 

TheSnowmanMafia

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^^^ Your 3.0T Q whatever euro vehicle isn't a common muscle car design. There is a bypass valve on OEM and aftermarket PD blowers (aftermarket edelbrock, Roush, VMP, Whipple, Magneson) that is vacuum actuated but no blow off valve like on a turbo setup. It simply vents boost pressure when throttle is released. Its not designed to regulate it. What douchebag buying an aftermarket supercharger would want to limit the boost level on it in any other method other than pulley up or down?
Yeah I used the wrong term, its a bypass valve, not a blow off valve, I couldn't think of the right word.

Regardless, the bypass valve is electronically controlled to bleed boost if the ECU thinks the boost pressure is at the appropriate level, which in most OEM instances, is lower than the amount of boost the blower can actually produce.

The blower Roush uses is an Eaton TVS which is the same that Audi uses on their 3.0T motors (just smaller in that case).

So, what douchebag buying a blower would want to limit boost that way? Anyone who wants to run a tune with boost-by-gear for example would be that douchebag...
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