Cortex vs Steeda Rear Toe Links

[JAJ]

I am sure. Here are some pics of what came out of my rear knuckle. And this bushing is what I have personally noted in all GT350/GT500s I had the chance to look over in that area.

Wow. Well, mine didn't look like that at all. I'd been thinking of installing the FP bearings and when I took it apart to install my BMR toe links, I realized I didn't have to.

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[honeybadger]

honeybadger,
What equipment do you use when you do your alignments? I'm trying to look into doing my own and I think you probably have a better handle on it than most people.
(please don't say you have a Hunter rig hidden in your garage...)

Thanks

Pretty basic stuff with some Longacre parts to help make it a bit easier.

I use this Longacre tool to check camber. There are cheaper/smaller versions - this one is just a bit more accurate.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PJIW9S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For toe, I use a typical pair of toe plates. One challenge with toe plates is that they don't tell you if the tires are straight relative to the chassis--only if there is toe in/out. But, it's an easy method that's accurate enough. Allows me to change things as needed at home or at the track.

https://www.amazon.com/Longacre-LON...toe+plates&qid=1628873543&s=automotive&sr=1-4

 

[Tonymustang302]

I have the full SPL catalog. Worth every penny

 

[Sletcher]

Pretty basic stuff with some Longacre parts to help make it a bit easier.

I use this Longacre tool to check camber. There are cheaper/smaller versions - this one is just a bit more accurate.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004PJIW9S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For toe, I use a typical pair of toe plates. One challenge with toe plates is that they don't tell you if the tires are straight relative to the chassis--only if there is toe in/out. But, it's an easy method that's accurate enough. Allows me to change things as needed at home or at the track.

https://www.amazon.com/Longacre-LON...toe+plates&qid=1628873543&s=automotive&sr=1-4

Thank you Sir.

 

[galaxy]

@honeybadger Those plates work on the rear also? You run your tape measure under the car I assume, since you need to measure in the front?

I suppose you could set up a string box to get the wheels square and also use the plates in conjunction with, yeah?

 

[honeybadger]

@honeybadger Those plates work on the rear also? You run your tape measure under the car I assume, since you need to measure in the front?

I suppose you could set up a string box to get the wheels square and also use the plates in conjunction with, yeah?

Correct. You could absolutely do that. I’ve done it before. I just found it’s too tedious to do before every track weekend

In all honesty, once you get in the ballpark, the toe plates are plenty. You’ll once you hit the first brake zone if you are off center

 

[drummerboy]

I have adjustable camber arms and toe links in the rear to make alignments easier, but I haven't bought alignment tools yet. I've been just driving around with track alignment as I don't put that many street miles on and figure my tires will be done from heat cycling before they've worn unevenly from street miles. I've frequently wondered if I should get the necessary alignment tools in the event that I plan to take a longer road trip. But even then, I wondered if just a couple digital angle gauges for camber would get me close enough.

If I went from -3.3 front, -2.5 rear to say -1.0 all around, would my toe be so far off that I'd be better off just leaving all the camber in? And if I were to use the angle gauges to reset to track settings, would my toe be about right if I hadn't touched the toe links? Am I way out of line here and just need to invest in the equipment and time to do it properly? Or can I eat my cake and have it, too?

 

[honeybadger]

I have adjustable camber arms and toe links in the rear to make alignments easier, but I haven't bought alignment tools yet. I've been just driving around with track alignment as I don't put that many street miles on and figure my tires will be done from heat cycling before they've worn unevenly from street miles. I've frequently wondered if I should get the necessary alignment tools in the event that I plan to take a longer road trip. But even then, I wondered if just a couple digital angle gauges for camber would get me close enough.

If I went from -3.3 front, -2.5 rear to say -1.0 all around, would my toe be so far off that I'd be better off just leaving all the camber in? And if I were to use the angle gauges to reset to track settings, would my toe be about right if I hadn't touched the toe links? Am I way out of line here and just need to invest in the equipment and time to do it properly? Or can I eat my cake and have it, too?

Yep. You’d be better leaving the high camber. You’ll kill a set of tires FAR earlier with messed up toe than too much camber. Unless you’re putting a crap ton of miles on your car, you’ll wear the tires out from track use long before you have issues from aggressive settings on the street.

 

[SgdriskillGT]

SPL>Cortex>Steeda/BMR

This is the first time I've heard of SPL, maybe I've been living under a rock. There isn't much of a price difference, so all are in budget. You usually get what you pay for, so I'd rather buy the best option. It's hard to tell if there's any actual benefit to paying more in this case though. Maybe weight savings in steel vs aluminum. Sounds like @Tonymustang302 is happy with SPL.

If your toe is changing after hard track use, the problem probably isn't the toe links... the camber adjustment bolt is probably moving a tiny bit, producing a small camber change that translates into a noticeable toe change.

Normally I'd agree, but the rear camber was -2.0 before and is still -2.0 after track use. The rear toe went from 0.20 both sides before to 0.38 left and 0.49 right.

 

[ShatterPoints]

This is the first time I've heard of SPL, maybe I've been living under a rock. There isn't much of a price difference, so all are in budget. You usually get what you pay for, so I'd rather buy the best option. It's hard to tell if there's any actual benefit to paying more in this case though. Maybe weight savings in steel vs aluminum. Sounds like @Tonymustang302 is happy with SPL.



Normally I'd agree, but the rear camber was -2.0 before and is still -2.0 after track use. The rear toe went from 0.20 both sides before to 0.38 left and 0.49 right.

I've used SPL on my 997TT and they won me over, they are also local-ish to me in TX. I will be putting their control arms on, their camber adjustment is rock solid, means I don't have to get camber plates up top. It would be hard to sway me away from them personally.

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