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correct engine break-in procedure - nurse for 100miles only!

911GT350R

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Credit to mhr1961 on the teamshelby forum for this well laid out explanation. Sorry if this has been beaten to death in a lot of other threads but the more I read the more I see people NOT taking notice of the supplement manual for our engines and keep referring to the break in procedure for the other Mustang engines. I hope this helps new GT350 owners because there is lots of wrong information out there on the forums and even being relayed by the dealers (shock). Skip to the red text below for the pertinent information.
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The 2018 GT350( or any recent GT350 for that matter) does NOT require 500 miles of babying and rowing through gears for the engine break in period, in fact it can be harmful to do so.

There is a lot of good information out about the 5.2 FPC and there is a lot of wrong information as well on the net about break in. Ignore it all and follow your manual and supplement manual. I will provide some information below as to why you should follow your Ford GT350 Supplement Manual on break in procedure. It’s a bit long but important to know.

People who bought the GT350 thinking it would not burn oil at times did not do any research or are typically not familiar with race type engines. Some people think because it is a race type engine it is built to some high tolerances. There are indeed areas of the engine that are machined to high tolerance but race type engines will typically have looser tolerances in regard to piston/cylinder wall clearance and will also have thinner rings sets for sealing the combustion chamber.They are designed as such to reduce as much friction as possible while also reducing blow by as much as possible. They are built this way intentionally to maximize hp over a broad heat range. This “slop” in piston/cylinder wall clearances allows for a higher degree of thermal expansion, because going from cold to race or track conditions generates a broader heat range and thus a broader range of thermal expansion the engine components will see.

If the 5.2 FPC was built to standard production engine spec it would start just fine and then seize up when put on a track. The “slop” is there for a reason.

The result of building a race type engine this way maximizes horsepower but it also can cause some Oil Burning and sometimes “Piston Slap”. The the biggest complaints from consumers have been these two conditions in the 5.2 FPC. Both conditions are normal if neither are excessive. The piston slap or “ticking” upon cold start that goes away is normal. If it continues after engine warm up and does not go away then get it checked. If your car burns a quart or so of oil between a 3k to 5 oil change intervals I would consider that normal. Yes some people are claiming no oil burn and some people are claiming 2 or 3 quarts between intervals. If you have your foot in it all the time you are probably going to burn more oil, also if you have frequent cold starts you may burn more oil , if it burns excessive amounts of oil get it checked. It’s not a production engine, it’s a production race engine. A little oil burn and some ticking on start up is normal for the 5.2 FPC.

There is a lot of old school thought about engine break in. You don’t have to to run 500 or 1000 miles of varying speed, play “row row row your boat” with the gears, etc. In fact the manual says don’t play heavy with the brakes and the gear rowing for the first 100 miles. Extended 500 mile to 1000 mile engine break in typically applies to standard production cross plane crank engines and yes the standard Mustang manual in the engine break in section of the 2018 Mustang Manual on Page 202 says the following:

“BREAKING-IN:

Tires: New tires need to be run-in for approximately 300 mi (500 km). During this time, you may experience different driving characteristics.

Brakes and Clutch: Avoid heavy use of the brakes and clutch if possible for the first 100 mi (150 km) in town and for the first 1,000 mi (1,500 km) on freeways.

Engine :Avoid driving too fast during the first 1,000 mi (1,500 km). Vary your speed frequently and change up through the gears early. Do not labor the engine.”

HOWEVER, you do NOT have a standard Mustang, you have a Ford Shelby #GT350 with a Flat 5.2 Plane Crank Engine, you need to refer to your 2018 GT350 SUPPLEMENT MANUAL, which on page 33 says the following:

“BREAKING-IN

Your vehicle requires a break-in period. Drive your new vehicle at least 100 mi (160 km) before performing extended wide open throttle maneuvers and at least 1,000 mi (1,600 km) before performance or competition conditions.

Note: Vary your speed frequently in order to give the moving parts a chance to break in. “

After 100 miles you can rev to wide open throttle intermittently all you want and it will actually help bed the rings properly rather than "hurt the engine" ………but just don’t keep your foot in it too long.


In many cases the worst thing you can do is baby a race type engine too long. You have a limited amount of time to bed the rings. It isn’t about the crankshaft, cams, rods, lifters and other components, those are highly machined and finished. The main focus of 100 mile engine break in procedure on the 5.2 FPC per the manual is bedding the rings. The cylinder walls are PTWA (Plasma Transferred Wire) This process creates a low friction surface with a good dimensional characteristics in the cylinder liner, which is required for the 5.2 FPC. After this process the cylinders are honed.

Controlled bedding and wearing in of the new piston rings on to the hone of the cylinder walls that is the most important in break in. You want to bed those rings so that they achieve a correct seal against the cylinder walls, and you have a small window of time in which to do so in order to bed the rings properly in order to reduce oil consumption and keep blow by to a minimum.”

So again, You don’t need to baby the engine and row through gears a lot for 500 miles. The transmission does not need a lot of rowing through the gears either to break it in, and doing so doesn’t do much to “load the engine”. You want to break in the engine under load. That mean accelerating and decelerating within about 75 to 80% of the recommended max rpm range using the engine to speed up or slow down (applying throttle and taking your foot off it). After one hundred miles of doing so, then the rings will be bedded and you can go wide open throttle from that point as it says in the GT350 supplement manual……….just don’t go wide open throttle for extended periods until after 1000 miles as the manual says.

This short break in before being able to go wide open throttle is important. It may seem counter-intuitive to some people who have grown up on a steady diet of regular production cross plane crank engines but the supplement manual instructions are the correct way to do it. Babying a racing type engine for 500 to 1000 miles may actually cause your rings not to bed in properly and will actually increase your oil consumption or piston slap.

Follow your manual, not anecdotal input.

BTW, Some race engines are only tested on a dyno for 30 to 45 minutes, they are then pulled and components and oil are checked for wear and metals and contaminants in the oil. Then they are put back on the dyno and ran through their paces for only a couple of hours and then they are thrown in the race car to let it rip in competition.

Do your hundred miles as instructed in the manual, then "let it rip" some here and there for your own delight and the benefit of the engine, and after 1000 miles of letting her rip at wide open throttle here and there, you can then take it to the track and keep your foot in it. Good Luck and Enjoy.
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Tomster

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Again, welcome to the forum. Thanks for your input, however this has been discussed and debated very much a while ago.

Enjoy your new R
 

Caballus

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One aspect that hasn't been talked about is the potential impact of completing the 100 mile break-in and then letting the car sit for several months before reaching 1,000mi. For example, car is picked up out of state during the fall, driven home (say a couple hundred miles) and then garaged until Spring. Any special considerations come Spring?
 

Hack

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Yes it's been discussed a lot, but I think it might bear repeating for newer members. I spent a lot of time during the break in period with the engine RPMs between 3,000 and 6,000 and the gas pedal either all the way down or all the way up. The reasoning is to seat the rings as well as possible. I tried really hard not to ever use light throttle cruise during the first 1,000 miles - or at least as little as possible. No idling to warm the engine and no long light throttle cruises waiting for it to warm up. Start up, drive away and apply heavy or no throttle as much as possible thereafter.

The other piece of this is that my Voodoo "liked" the oil level to be midway between top and bottom fill lines on the dip stick. After an oil change the oil level would be at the top line and then it would fairly quickly fall to the midway point and stay there. No oil fill needed. If I continued to add small amounts of oil trying to keep it at the top line the engine would continue to use oil. The manual says not to fill unless the oil level goes below the bottom line, so I stopped adding oil. Then I found that oil never needed to be added, because it would never get down to the bottom line.
 

galaxy

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Just. Drive. The. Damn. Car.

I apply this philosophy to everything and it has served me well. Where'd I get it from? The owner of GLock brakes. i was corresponding with him about some other items and the conversation let to properly bedding and breaking in new GLoc pads...his answer/instructions..."just drive the damn car".

The other piece of this is that my Voodoo "liked" the oil level to be midway between top and bottom fill lines on the dip stick. After an oil change the oil level would be at the top line and then it would fairly quickly fall to the midway point and stay there. No oil fill needed. If I continued to add small amounts of oil trying to keep it at the top line the engine would continue to use oil. The manual says not to fill unless the oil level goes below the bottom line, so I stopped adding oil. Then I found that oil never needed to be added, because it would never get down to the bottom line.
I've heard of this happening quite a bit to truck guys on my F150 forum. Some engines just have a spot. Technically speaking, it makes no sense, but I've heard of this happen more than once or twice.
 

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Hack

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I've heard of this happening quite a bit to truck guys on my F150 forum. Some engines just have a spot. Technically speaking, it makes no sense, but I've heard of this happen more than once or twice.
My thought is possibly the oil gets more stirred up by the crank when the oil level is higher - sending more into the catch cans or the intake. Probably mostly at idle or low rpms when not much oil is in the top end. But I agree it doesn't seem to make a whole lot of sense.
 
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911GT350R

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Again, welcome to the forum. Thanks for your input, however this has been discussed and debated very much a while ago.

Enjoy your new R
Thanks and I am sure this has been debated...maybe there should be a sticky for engine break in?
 
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911GT350R

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Yes it's been discussed a lot, but I think it might bear repeating for newer members. I spent a lot of time during the break in period with the engine RPMs between 3,000 and 6,000 and the gas pedal either all the way down or all the way up. The reasoning is to seat the rings as well as possible. I tried really hard not to ever use light throttle cruise during the first 1,000 miles - or at least as little as possible. No idling to warm the engine and no long light throttle cruises waiting for it to warm up. Start up, drive away and apply heavy or no throttle as much as possible thereafter.

The other piece of this is that my Voodoo "liked" the oil level to be midway between top and bottom fill lines on the dip stick. After an oil change the oil level would be at the top line and then it would fairly quickly fall to the midway point and stay there. No oil fill needed. If I continued to add small amounts of oil trying to keep it at the top line the engine would continue to use oil. The manual says not to fill unless the oil level goes below the bottom line, so I stopped adding oil. Then I found that oil never needed to be added, because it would never get down to the bottom line.
Yes, maybe a sticky for new members? My dealer told me to not rev it above 3000rpms for the first 1000miles. Which is wrong, but if the dealers are unclear...???
 

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honeybadger

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FWIW - I hit redline leaving the dealer (car was warm from a test drive earlier) and my original made it 12k track miles, 19k total miles and looked incredible when I took it apart.
 

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Thanks and I am sure this has been debated...maybe there should be a sticky for engine break in?
I agree. A lot of information was discussed and now it appears to be lost in space. Granted the search function is not the best here.
 
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911GT350R

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This is my newbie take away from the long post above:
Break in period:
Basic Mustang: 1000mi
GT350 Mustang: 100mi then 1000mi

Vary your speed frequently through 1000mi
Basic Mustang: yes
GT350 Mustang: yes

Intermittent Wide Open Throttle Conditions:
Basic Mustang: not mentioned but implied
GT350 Mustang: after 100mi

Extended Wide Open Throttle Conditions (Performance or Competition Conditions)

Basic Mustang: not mentioned
GT350 Mustang: after 1000mi

Let me know if I am reading things correctly.
 

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The initial 100-200 miles is critical for proper piston ring seating. If you are too easy on it, the rings wont mate to the cylinder walls properly, and will leave a surface that is actually too smooth. You want aggressive acceleration, without hitting redline. Give it about 75% throttle, up to 5,000 RPM or so. Engine braking is even more important. The vacuum inside the cylinders pulls the rings against the cylinder walls nice and tight to mate the surfaces. Find a nice long hill. Accelerate up the hill with about 75% throttle (no WOT, and do not hit redline) Then go back down the same hill, with the engine in a lower gear, in order to create as much engine vacuum (engine braking) as possible. Do this several times, and after your first 500 miles, change the oil and filter. Proceed with driving as the manufacturer intended- balls to the wall.
 

ihc95

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FWIW - I hit redline leaving the dealer (car was warm from a test drive earlier) and my original made it 12k track miles, 19k total miles and looked incredible when I took it apart.
Didn't you have a broken valve spring? (albeit probably not related to your "break in")
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