Coincidence? Catch can and cel/knock

[FreePenguin]

When I installed my passenger clean side ford perf catch can, I drove around last few days. I notice I hit 10afr on wot, but yesterday I pulled up my OBD fusion and showed I had a 1 knock on cylinder 4.

i went ahead turned car off and on, 1 knock was still on cyl 4. No cel present. So I scanned for cel’s and found “unable to bleed fuel tank” or something I didn’t save it. But I cleared it.

it removed the knock 1 on cylinder 4.

do you think it’s due to new catch can? And that on wot it gets to 10afr? Causing knock? I may have to removeit if it comes back. 2 warm up cycles since clear and no knock and no pending code

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[Jaymar]

The "unable to bleed fuel tank" sounds a lot like the code for the EVAP purge valve. Check you catch can lines for vacuum leaks and check the purge valve connection. You may also just be the lucky recipient of a bad EVAP purge valve as many other Ecoboost owners have been.

 

[TeeLew]

When I installed my passenger clean side ford perf catch can, I drove around last few days. I notice I hit 10afr on wot, but yesterday I pulled up my OBD fusion and showed I had a 1 knock on cylinder 4.

i went ahead turned car off and on, 1 knock was still on cyl 4. No cel present. So I scanned for cel’s and found “unable to bleed fuel tank” or something I didn’t save it. But I cleared it.

it removed the knock 1 on cylinder 4.

do you think it’s due to new catch can? And that on wot it gets to 10afr? Causing knock? I may have to removeit if it comes back. 2 warm up cycles since clear and no knock and no pending code

Your 10:1 AFR is actually better than what I dyno'd with on my car. We measured 8.9:1 in the pipe. That's pig-rich & I consider it somewhere between stupid & careless that Ford tunes this way. It's just unacceptable. I don't think your catch can would have anything to do showing knock, but but I would be concerned about the code.

 

[FreePenguin]

I put a piece of felt under the catch can hose that’s on engine touching, to absorb vibration

no cel’s or knock,i hit 23psi it goes to 10.5 afr at like 6k rpm, so at peak is when it’s rich thing up. I feel safe

will update if code returns

 

[TeeLew]

The problem is with all that partially burnt fuel you can develop deposits in the combustion chamber which then create hot spots that lead to pre-ignition / detonation. They can't just throw fuel indescriminantly at it without repercussions. Also, with those fat fuel mixtures comes fouled plugs. Which plays back to heat range needed (or wanted) by the various tuners.

 

[FreePenguin]

The problem is with all that partially burnt fuel you can develop deposits in the combustion chamber which then create hot spots that lead to pre-ignition / detonation. They can't just throw fuel indescriminantly at it without repercussions. Also, with those fat fuel mixtures comes fouled plugs. Which plays back to heat range needed (or wanted) by the various tuners.

Cobb stage 3 also uses 10afr as well, I remember reading a guy recently using stage 3 and was concerned with 10afr on wot, but then I googled and saw stage 3 Cobb on focus, rs etc, other cars, also uses 10afr for wot on all their stage 3's.

I wonder if its safe at the 6k-7k rpm at that fast, can it really not burn all that fuel?

Im using those rutheniums/oem heat. not sure if that helps with ignitability. it doesnt stutter, or fall off, it keeps pulling, but watching the AFR just dropping the longer im in the WOT was my concern, it probably has nothing to do with the catch can right?

I was wondering if the catch can has more open volume not pressurized, so it takes awhile for boost to fill up the little catch can, etc. but its prob nothing affecting it.

 

[TeeLew]

I don't care who is doing it. There's no way that 10:1 is necessary. I see a ton of engine data and no professional engine builder run their mixtures anything close to this rich.

 

[FreePenguin]

I don't care who is doing it. There's no way that 10:1 is necessary. I see a ton of engine data and no professional engine builder run their mixtures anything close to this rich.

is 10:1 the same thing as 10.5 afr? just curious, im assuming 10:1 is 10.1 to -10.9 in general.

 

[FreePenguin]

also, I am looking @ my dash AFR. it could be, inaccurate, and not actually what is being displayed. I dont have a Cobb, so it doesnt record low and highs, my little data obd fusion it shows real time, albeit a little lag. I might have to have my gf look @ it while I do Wot and see what number she sees pop up, maybe 10.5afr on my dash, is "actually" 11 afr in "actual"

 

[FreePenguin]

Tomorrow I am going to jack up car, pull belly pan, and inspect my charge pipes, may loosen them up and double check on positioning to ensure there is no boost leak, I dont think there is, but will re orient the pipes anyway to make sure optimal. something to do.

because I lost one side of my intercooler brackets awhile back, and I made new ones, but I didn't really double check my pipes, when I pushed up the intercooler a bit, and all that, I didn't really loosen the couplers/ensure they are optimal.

no big deal, take me 30 minutes to loosen and reseat and all that. I hold boost, hits 23, and stabilizes at 22-21 so I dont think there is one, but If when I pushed up intercooler the little bit, I dont want pressure on the couples since I didn't re arrange, cant really explain it lol

 

[Jaymar]

So you're going to ignore the CEL code and chase some paranoia based on an inaccurate gauge instead? Stop, calm down and follow the evidence. It's trying to point you in the right direction if you listen to it.

 

[FreePenguin]

So you're going to ignore the CEL code and chase some paranoia based on an inaccurate gauge instead? Stop, calm down and follow the evidence. It's trying to point you in the right direction if you listen to it.

I changed my purge valve like 4K miles ago though. I wonder if it was a fluke. I cleared the code and once it comes back then guess I will order another one

 

[Jaymar]

I changed my purge valve like 4K miles ago though. I wonder if it was a fluke. I cleared the code and once it comes back then guess I will order another one

Wait for the code to come back and get the exact text and number.

Check the connections for the purge valve and any others related. Especially where you were just working, that hardly seems like a coincidence. You can also check the valve manually, a bad one will be stuck open. If the code is purge valve related it means the system is unable to achieve the correct level of vacuum in the fuel tank so follow that route.

 

[FreePenguin]

Wait for the code to come back and get the exact text and number.

Check the connections for the purge valve and any others related. Especially where you were just working, that hardly seems like a coincidence. You can also check the valve manually, a bad one will be stuck open. If the code is purge valve related it means the system is unable to achieve the correct level of vacuum in the fuel tank so follow that route.

Will do.

feels healthy though. I have been stomping around and having a blast.
As of now there’s been no cel for my passenger side catch can. I may of gotten lucky and won’t get one

a lot of people get a cel for it, the prev owner ofthe one I have gota cel with it, but the people who have cel with it all was using aidRaid or whatever intake tube. Is that the reason? Don’t know I’m using oem tube

 

[EmCel]

I changed my purge valve like 4K miles ago though. I wonder if it was a fluke. I cleared the code and once it comes back then guess I will order another one

My car is weird. The check engine light that comes on and off with the purge valve code differs each time. The first time it came on and my mechanic reset the code it went away after a few days. Other times it will stay on for a few days or a week, if I do a long pull it goes off, if I fuel up it goes off and other times when I fill up it will come back on the next day. My mechanic said don't worry about it and that it's not a big deal. I know it's a cheap fix but it would be annoying if it came back on after replacing it.

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