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Clutch/brake pedal assembly removal

mindys

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Hi guys,

So yesterday my clutch pedal broke. The weld that holds the bar linkage of the pedal to the pivot tube up top broke so my clutch pedal is very wobbly and I have issues starting the car now because the neutral switch is not being engaged properly.

If anyone that has a service manual could provide me with the excerpt to remove the assembly I would greatly appreciate it! Thank you!
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Mootang

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mindys

mindys

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Alright boys, trying to remove this entire assembly is proving to be a difficult job. Right now I need to remove the clutch master cylinder plunger rod from the clutch pedal, but there is a clip preventing me from popping off the connector from the clutch pedal linkage. Since I have limited space and am broad shouldered, I cannot get a good look at the clip to understand how to remove it. Does anyone possibly have removed this before and could show me a picture of it?
 
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mindys

mindys

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Nevermind. I got it. Here is a picture for those who may have to do this job like me:

1y7p4z.jpg


Just used a small allen wrench to hook on the top part and pulled it out.
 
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mindys

mindys

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Alright, so got the assembly out and disconnected the pedals from the plastic bracket:

28tdoa8.jpg


Here is how the clutch pedal pivot tube looks:

18nng8.jpg


2cfazoz.jpg


As you can see this thing failed pretty badly. I had a squeak/creak last year in the summer which disappeared in the winter. I assume the weld was slowly failing until it finally completely failed this past Sunday.

I will have my coworker get this cleaned up and welded up. Will get an all around weld done on both sides so that this thing never ever fails again. I will keep you guys updated!
 

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PoppinJ

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wow, that's not a part that I would expect to break. Its cool you've got a buddy who can spot weld it back together for free though.
 

Lime1GT

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Man, they build things so cheaply nowadays. Even a tack weld on the opposite side of the main weld probably would have prevented that. Just a note, remember to remove the nylon bushings before welding.


My old 05 stang had developed a creak using the clutch. Took me forever to find it but the plastic bracket on the backside facing the firewall had flex-rubbed through the firewall paint. I just rubbed some silicone brake grease where the paint was missing before reinstalling the assembly and the noise disappeared.
 
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mindys

mindys

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wow, that's not a part that I would expect to break. Its cool you've got a buddy who can spot weld it back together for free though.
Yeah instead of spot welds, I will ask for an all-around weld on both sides to ensure that this thing never again fails. The weld will be really good cause this guy makes welding an art.

Man, they build things so cheaply nowadays. Even a tack weld on the opposite side of the main weld probably would have prevented that. Just a note, remember to remove the nylon bushings before welding.


My old 05 stang had developed a creak using the clutch. Took me forever to find it but the plastic bracket on the backside facing the firewall had flex-rubbed through the firewall paint. I just rubbed some silicone brake grease where the paint was missing before reinstalling the assembly and the noise disappeared.
Yeah, I had a creak too. Sadly it was not so easily to fix like yours.
 
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mindys

mindys

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Here's a better view of the failure after sand blasting:

179640.jpg


33lmc8h.jpg
 

M151A2

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Looks like a lot of side load was put on it.
do you have a big foot and not pushing straight, or reasonably straight in?
Just asking as a friend of mine has a EEE foot and kinda pushes sideways. He broke a pedal on another vehicle in the same place.
I guess that small pedal surface gives him a false "feel" when he pushes down.
 

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mindys

mindys

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Looks like a lot of side load was put on it.
do you have a big foot and not pushing straight, or reasonably straight in?
Just asking as a friend of mine has a EEE foot and kinda pushes sideways. He broke a pedal on another vehicle in the same place.
I guess that small pedal surface gives him a false "feel" when he pushes down.
No, I push evenly. I think the side load may have been the result of the first weld failing on one side and causing the pedal to twist a bit when it was being operated with only one weld intact.
 

StevexSlow

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Mine is broken too.... do you know how much it would cost to replace at ford? I already bought another assembly. It’s such an inconvenience for this to happen...
 

Anthony 05 GT

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That will be fine with a decent weld.
 
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mindys

mindys

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Mine is broken too.... do you know how much it would cost to replace at ford? I already bought another assembly. It’s such an inconvenience for this to happen...
No idea man, sorry. I did all the work myself.

Actually got the piece back and installed everything back in yesterday! Car running again. Before, I had issues starting the car since the pedal would not engage the neutral switch properly and I would need to basically try to push the pedal through the fire wall to get the car to start. Now back to normal and all good. My guy did a few welds and also added a stiffening piece up on top so that the piece is more rigid in that area:

vxbx2b.jpg


osr8uw.jpg


15rfgnt.jpg


59su3n.jpg
 
 




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