'change coolant'

[burrpenick]

I did a search on how to change the coolant and didnt find much. Im new so maybe there is a sticky that I dont know where to find? I want to change the ORANGE coolant on my 2015 3.7 V6 w/55K miles. Should I run a bottle of flush in it some before I drain? Is the radiator drain easy to get to. Thinking I should start the car w/the drain open and leave a hose running into the filler bottle- until it starts to run out clear, then close the drain and add the Coolant. If my past experience w/modern stuff holds true, Im pretty sure I wont be able to add the full 12-13 quarts, correct? Thanks!

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[ice445]

Don't use the running hose trick, the new Yellow P-OAT coolant is very sensitive to contaminated water. No matter what you do, some coolant will always end up stuck in the block and oil cooler circuit. You can't buy Orange anymore, so you'll have to upgrade to Yellow.

The easiest thing to do is simply drain and fill with Yellow. Yellow and orange mix just fine, you just have to follow the service schedule for orange going forward. I doubt any flushing chemicals are really needed on an all aluminum engine. Radiator petcock is on the passenger side of the radiator, you'll need to remove the splash pan underneath to access it (and there's 9 million screws and clips, including some in the wheel wells). Simply twist it counterclockwise to loosen it and coolant will eventually come out of the nipple. Get a 5/16 hose to run it around the frame rail to your drain bucket.

If you want to be really anal, you can drain the system, refill with distilled water, run it, then drain again. Repeat this twice and on the second time measure how much comes out so you can do the math on how much concentrated yellow and distilled water you need to get to a 50/50 mix. Coolant capacity is listed in the owners manual and it depends on if you have performance pack or not. The performance pack radiator holds more coolant. (not applicable if you have a v6).

If you have any more questions I'm pretty well versed on this after doing multiple radiator swaps.

 

[The Demon]

Don't use the running hose trick, the new Yellow P-OAT coolant is very sensitive to contaminated water. No matter what you do, some coolant will always end up stuck in the block and oil cooler circuit. You can't buy Orange anymore, so you'll have to upgrade to Yellow.

The easiest thing to do is simply drain and fill with Yellow. Yellow and orange mix just fine, you just have to follow the service schedule for orange going forward. I doubt any flushing chemicals are really needed on an all aluminum engine. Radiator petcock is on the passenger side of the radiator, you'll need to remove the splash pan underneath to access it (and there's 9 million screws and clips, including some in the wheel wells). Simply twist it counterclockwise to loosen it and coolant will eventually come out of the nipple. Get a 5/16 hose to run it around the frame rail to your drain bucket.

If you want to be really anal, you can drain the system, refill with distilled water, run it, then drain again. Repeat this twice and on the second time measure how much comes out so you can do the math on how much concentrated yellow and distilled water you need to get to a 50/50 mix. Coolant capacity is listed in the owners manual and it depends on if you have performance pack or not. The performance pack radiator holds more coolant. (not applicable if you have a v6).

If you have any more questions I'm pretty well versed on this after doing multiple radiator swaps.

Nice write up. I can’t do this shit for myself anymore. When time comes unfortunately I’m gonna have to pay.

 

[Dfeeds]

You can't buy Orange anymore, so you'll have to upgrade to Yellow.

You can still buy dex-cool. It's the same spec as ford orange.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Prestone...did=&affiliates_ad_id=568823&campaign_id=9383

 

[ice445]

You can still buy dex-cool. It's the same spec as ford orange.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Prestone...did=&affiliates_ad_id=568823&campaign_id=9383

True, but I don't know why you would want to. The Yellow P-OAT is much better.

 

[Dfeeds]

True, but I don't know why you would want to. The Yellow P-OAT is much better.

Because some of us are too lazy to switch . Out of genuine curiosity, how is the yellow better than orange?

 

[ice445]

Because some of us are too lazy to switch . Out of genuine curiosity, how is the yellow better than orange?

Lasts longer, better corrosion protection, better flavor

 

[NoVaGT]

Good Christ......the obsessiveness is silly.

Open pet-cock, remove over-flow tank cap, allow to drain out. Close pet-cock.

Pour back in pre-mixed OEM coolant from your local dealership. Run engine/allow to bleed, put over-flow tank cap back on.

Done.

 

[burrpenick]

THANKS! That was just what I needed..........I saw the orange at NAPA and noticed it meets the FORD specs (OPPS, more study says it does NOT meet FORD specs0 so I decided on ZEREX G-05 which is widely accepted by many car makers including FORD) but does say for GM vehicles, and that is what I planned to use. 5 years on the orange is fine w/me, I wont come close to the mileage limit.

 

[br_an]

how is the yellow better than orange?

Lasts longer, better corrosion protection, better flavor

Lemon Fresh!

 

[burrpenick]

Again, thanks for all the input. I understand the point about going to the yellow vs orange- being that the yellow is HOAT and the Orange was just OAT and that the Yellow will protect a little better. Also agree that I wont need a flushing agent or use any TAP water! My closest Ford dealer is over an hour, but I can get this easily, and its the HOAT: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Zerex-G0...eze-Coolant-50-50-Ready-to-Use-1-GA/168610254 Any issues w/this? Thanks, George in NC

 

[br_an]

Good Christ......the obsessiveness is silly.

Open pet-cock, remove over-flow tank cap, allow to drain out. Close pet-cock.

Pour back in pre-mixed OEM coolant from your local dealership. Run engine/allow to bleed, put over-flow tank cap back on.

Done.

When you say it like that, it sounds pretty easy

 

[burrpenick]

Nice write up. I can’t do this shit for myself anymore. When time comes unfortunately I’m gonna have to pay.

Experience tells me not a lot of coolant will drain w/just the petcock open and the cap off the fill tank- like probably not nearly the 3 gallons it holds, is it ok or recommended to let the engine idle for a few minutes in hopes of purging the remainder? Assuming the drain should be done w/heater on too........

 

[burrpenick]

Experience tells me not a lot of coolant will drain w/just the petcock open and the cap off the fill tank- like probably not nearly the 3 gallons it holds, is it ok or recommended to let the engine idle for a few minutes in hopes of purging the remainder? Assuming the drain should be done w/heater on too........

ANYONE offer some TIPS to drain as much coolant as I can reasonably? Put the rear end up on ramps for example?

 

[ice445]

ANYONE offer some TIPS to drain as much coolant as I can reasonably? Put the rear end up on ramps for example?

Short of having an airlift system like what a dealer uses, there's no real good way of doing it. I wouldn't feel comfortable having the front and rear on jackstands with the rear higher than the front.

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