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'change coolant'

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burrpenick

burrpenick

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Short of having an airlift system like what a dealer uses, there's no real good way of doing it. I wouldn't feel comfortable having the front and rear on jackstands with the rear higher than the front.
I wasnt thinking Id jack both ends up- just back it up on the ramps......may have to leave the drain plug open since it would be hard to get at like that????
I do have a hill to park it on that may work too.....
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Keeffa

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Good Christ......the obsessiveness is silly.

Open pet-cock, remove over-flow tank cap, allow to drain out. Close pet-cock.

Pour back in pre-mixed OEM coolant from your local dealership. Run engine/allow to bleed, put over-flow tank cap back on.

Done.
Thanks. This what I would usually do also.
Do you know how much coolant is needed to refill a Mustang 2018 GT. With this method of draining.
Thanks.
 

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a simple drain and fill is the right thing and all I’ve done on my 2018 GT. For some reason, I gave my 2012 Jetta a bit more love and applied some compressed air to the reservoir using a rag to make a seal. This made an incredible amount of coolant come out the radiator drain. It also made a huge mess.
 

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a simple drain and fill is the right thing and all I’ve done on my 2018 GT. For some reason, I gave my 2012 Jetta a bit more love and applied some compressed air to the reservoir using a rag to make a seal. This made an incredible amount of coolant come out the radiator drain. It also made a huge mess.
When you've done a drain and fill on your GT how much coolant did it take to fill it up.
If you remember, thanks.
 

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When you've done a drain and fill on your GT how much coolant did it take to fill it up.
If you remember, thanks.
When I did a PP radiator swap, I bought 3 gallons pre-diluted and ended up only needing two with the standard burp method detailed in this thread. There was still some orange in the system. I'm not worried, it'll come out little by little with future drains.
 

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Keeffa

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When I did a PP radiator swap, I bought 3 gallons pre-diluted and ended up only needing two with the standard burp method detailed in this thread. There was still some orange in the system. I'm not worried, it'll come out little by little with future drains.
Thanks mate.
 

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Don't use the running hose trick, the new Yellow P-OAT coolant is very sensitive to contaminated water. No matter what you do, some coolant will always end up stuck in the block and oil cooler circuit. You can't buy Orange anymore, so you'll have to upgrade to Yellow.

The easiest thing to do is simply drain and fill with Yellow. Yellow and orange mix just fine, you just have to follow the service schedule for orange going forward. I doubt any flushing chemicals are really needed on an all aluminum engine. Radiator petcock is on the passenger side of the radiator, you'll need to remove the splash pan underneath to access it (and there's 9 million screws and clips, including some in the wheel wells). Simply twist it counterclockwise to loosen it and coolant will eventually come out of the nipple. Get a 5/16 hose to run it around the frame rail to your drain bucket.

If you want to be really anal, you can drain the system, refill with distilled water, run it, then drain again. Repeat this twice and on the second time measure how much comes out so you can do the math on how much concentrated yellow and distilled water you need to get to a 50/50 mix. Coolant capacity is listed in the owners manual and it depends on if you have performance pack or not. The performance pack radiator holds more coolant. (not applicable if you have a v6).

If you have any more questions I'm pretty well versed on this after doing multiple radiator swaps.
I found I didn't have to remove the splash pan underneath I could reach in and push a 8mm hose on the radiator drain and open the tap. Saved a lot of time.
Refilling I put about 6 liters back in.
 
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Jimmy Doe

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Don't use the running hose trick, the new Yellow P-OAT coolant is very sensitive to contaminated water. No matter what you do, some coolant will always end up stuck in the block and oil cooler circuit. You can't buy Orange anymore, so you'll have to upgrade to Yellow.

The easiest thing to do is simply drain and fill with Yellow. Yellow and orange mix just fine, you just have to follow the service schedule for orange going forward. I doubt any flushing chemicals are really needed on an all aluminum engine. Radiator petcock is on the passenger side of the radiator, you'll need to remove the splash pan underneath to access it (and there's 9 million screws and clips, including some in the wheel wells). Simply twist it counterclockwise to loosen it and coolant will eventually come out of the nipple. Get a 5/16 hose to run it around the frame rail to your drain bucket.

If you want to be really anal, you can drain the system, refill with distilled water, run it, then drain again. Repeat this twice and on the second time measure how much comes out so you can do the math on how much concentrated yellow and distilled water you need to get to a 50/50 mix. Coolant capacity is listed in the owners manual and it depends on if you have performance pack or not. The performance pack radiator holds more coolant. (not applicable if you have a v6).

If you have any more questions I'm pretty well versed on this after doing multiple radiator swaps.
Thank you. Couple questions: 1) approx how much should drain from Peacock 2) do I run the engine and heater while adding new fluid and when will I know all the air is out of system . Thanks in advance
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