Center Speaker Grill Mod Question

[TeamGomez]

So I finally decided I needed to upgrade the sound for some more depth and bump. Been carousing around all the great threads but haven’t yet seen if anybody has cut the tabs off the center speaker grill that lock into the Center Finish Panel (where the gauges are…along with my $$$ CF dash piece).

I really, really don’t want to try to pop off that Center Finish Panel that has the CF piece taped down to it’s entirety. I saw one video where a gent was replacing his center speaker and he noted that he had cut the tabs off to facilitate said adventure, but unknown when/how he did it.

I’m considering a red hot x-acto knife blade that could possibly sever the tabs off in place, or even a dremel cutting wheel God forbid I don’t put a new racing stripe down the CF between the gauges.

I’m going to put a Dayton PS95-8 in place of the current speaker (both 8ohm). I have used Daytons on a few other projects and they’re pretty spectacular for their price point.

So curious if anybody had shed those two tabs that stick into the dash fascia (circled below) and if the 4 remaining clips are sufficient to hold in place. Or do I just man up and pop that dash fascia (Center Finish Panel) off?

Inbound upgrades: JL XD500/3, LC2iPro, JL 12W1v3 sub, SKAR side fire box to put it in, and a pair of Focal ACX 165 for the rear deck. We’ll see how those Focals do; I may put ’em in the doors as well during phase 2 of the plan along with replacing the mids/pillar tweets. Keeping OEM amp to run fronts; any lessons learned appreciated.

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[DanyYak]

I disconnected the center speaker years ago. No need for it especially after upgrading the dsp. I just disconnected the wires from the canbus and went 3 way front stage and turned off the rear fill. I highly recommend replacing the door speakers and adding sound deadening, go either 2 or 3 way front stage, use forscan to disable the active EQ, and replacing the sub with the scar box with a jl audio.

 

[TeamGomez]

Thanks for rolling in here. Sweet setup you have there.

I didn’t want to disappear down the upgrade rabbit hole trying to balance the cockpit imaging. Given my tinnitus (it’s the sound of freedom, you know) won’t allow me to fully appreciate the crisp highs like I used to, my objective here is to get a fuller low/mid experience.

I ended up detaching the center finish panel to get to the center speaker and was able to do so without any snapped tab drama. I dropped the Dayton in and it def wasn’t a step backwards. Not Bowers and Wilkins, mind you, but it’ll do for now.

I horseshoed the amp deck around the mobility kit (wanted to keep the support to the trunk floorboard and I don’t need all that space for electronics…tire plug kit fits nicely beneath the mobility kit) and will get that install complete & carpeted this week along with the rear deck Focals. I’ll also be moving the latches forward to provide an air gap to the trunk.

 

[joe603]

I just disconnected mine too. As for the amp rack, you can always move the emergency kit...i have mine wedged next to the dual 12 sub enclosure. When you do that, it makes the amp rack install easier as you can use the hardware to bolt it down.

https://www.mustang6g.com/forums/threads/stereo-build-finally-finished.194495/

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